Chief Joseph

No clue as 1/12 isn't my thing and I don't have that Camaro kit. If the kit wheels are about 1.2" in diameter and about an inch wide, they'd fit. Being rubber, they'll flex a little bit and accommodate slightly bigger dimensions.

@Joe: The tread width is 1.35", the section width is 1.142", the outside diameter is 2.371", and the inside diameter is 1.2". The inside "rim" width is 0.97". @Steve: They would fit on the rear of a Camaro, but would look awfully weird on the front.

Here's a 1/12 version of my Indy Profile N50-15 tire that a customer in Australia asked me to make for him. He's okay with me selling pairs of them to others. Any interest?

Check out the "Brick in the Yard Molding Supply" YouTube channel. Lots of excellent videos on all kinds of mold making. This one is specifically for a simple 2-part RTV mold:

Please let it be known that I (Fireball Modelworks) do not recast kit parts for resell. All my items are either grown from 3D models or scratchbuilt. Buying resin recasts of kit parts might seem like a cheap way to enjoy the hobby, but it ultimately hurts the kit manufacturers and makes them unwilling to invest in new and updated tooling.

Nice job on an obscure subject. I have the decals somewhere for Grissom's Channellock and Roddenberry's Busch cars. Funny story: Steve Grissom's family owns a Honda dealership in Gadsden, Alabama. I almost bought an Accord from them back in 1990. The salesman (Steve's brother) ticked me off, so I went to the Ford dealership up the road and bought a full-size Bronco instead.

Thanks for all the positive feedback. With luck, a Mopar handle will be next. And yes, Dave, I would very much like to separate you from your money. I promise that you'll get the highest-quality items you can't get anywhere else!

I've tinkered with it, David. You have to put some specific registration marks into the layout when you print your decal sheet. If you are using something like Corel or Illustrator to make your decals, then it's fairly easy to set up outlines around the decal images at a set distance. It takes some trial-and-error to get the cutter to read the registration marks accurately, too. For me, it's easier to trim decals with scissors. Now, for making paint masks and things like that, the Cameo is awesome and very easy to use.

Hello friends, Today I've released a new item from Fireball Modelworks. Door handles for late-50's through 1972 passenger cars! As usual, these pieces were designed in 3D and pressure-cast in polyurethane resin. Each pack contains four pairs (that's eight pieces). They are 1/24 scale, but will work with 1/25 scale really well. Ordering and pricing details for item FMR-047 are available at Fireball Modelworks. Thanks for looking!

I'd say your best bet would be to soak it in DOT3 brake fluid for a while and see if that does the trick.

There is also this stuff from USCHI that is supposed to work really well: http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/polishing-powders-metallic-pigments

Well, you make it sound simple to put something like this together but it definitely isn't, LOL. I'm going to send you a PM in a few minutes.

This keeps getting cooler, Doug! Did you use the Noble open-source plans to build your printer? I have a ton of sample files I could send if you really want to give your printer a workout

Hey Doug, that's awesome that you assembled your own homebrew DLP printer. I've been looking at getting a Form1+ but those things just aren't ready for prime time. Also been looking at various DLP kits. Does yours do a peel or are you pulling directly off the vat with the Z axis motor?

Yes, 66-71 model years. The AVS carb is very similar in appearance to an AFB and in 1/25 scale there would be very little to distinguish them unless somebody made them like I made my Q-Jets.

Carter built Quadrajets under license for GM, but the Thermoquad was a Carter-designed unit. They look more like a Qjet than they do a Holley, but there is enough difference that even at 1/25 scale a Qjet could not substitute for a thermoquad. I would be more than willing to make one, assuming i could get enough references or an actual core.

Thanks, Mike!! You want to see the Muncie 4-speed I've made?

If I had one sitting around it would have already been done, LOL. It is quite a bit easier to make a model of something when you have one in your hands.

"Reducer" is a term I think the paint industry came up with a while back to differentiate between the "thinner" that lacquer and enamel paints used and the chemicals used to thin the newer urethane paints. They aren't really cross-compatible, so "reducer" was used to help the manufacturers and the end-users communicate more effectively. That's my theory, anyway. Whether it's called thinner or reducer, the purpose is the same. The Wicked Reducer is wonderful stuff (there are actually two different versions, standard and high-performance-- not sure exactly what the difference is) and you can literally mix the paint & reducer at any ratio and still get a usable paint mix. Wicked colors can be thinned with distilled water, but after too much dilution, the paint film will become weak. In my experience, Wicked Colors perform best when sprayed at fairly high pressure. They really need to go onto a good primer surface, too. Spraying them directly onto bare plastic can cause the paint to bead and turn splotchy. The reducer will extend the drying time and help keep the paint from drying at the tip.

http://www.fireballmodels.info Direct link to product page: http://www.fireballmodels.info/fmr-42-43.htm Thanks!

Thanks very much Todd. I used a real Quadrajet for measurements, so it's about as accurate as possible, allowing for printing and casting limitations.

There's no technical or cool 3D printing information in this documentary; it's mostly about the oddball personalities behind two of the most high-profile startup companies (MakerBot and Formlabs). In fact, the only 3D-printed things that were featured were those guns and gun parts made by that anarchist in Texas.

Wicked Jet Black is one of the "Detail" colors and Wicked Black is a standard color. The Detail Jet Black will dry to a flat sheen and the Standard Black dries to more of a satin of semi-gloss sheen. There is no metallic or pearl in either one, but these paints will easily take Pearl-Ex powders. You really shouldn't have any trouble using regular hobby clears over Wicked Colors paint; if you decide to use Future, go easy with the application. I've had Future crack the surface of a Wicked Colors black paint job after four or five days.

The N50-15 is officially available on www.fireballmodels.info. Here's a pic of painted 1/24 and 1/25 samples: Also releasing today some resin Rochester Quadrajet carburetors in two different styles, both available in 1/24 and 1/25: Thanks for looking!

Nothing definitive planned at the moment; I am still concentrating mainly on tires you'd see on 70's and 80's street cars. Yes, that's exactly what I did: one sidewall reads "50" and the other side reads "S/S" so I basically get two different looks from one part. Having 1/25 and 1/24 versions is bad enough; I can't image having another two separate masters based on different lettering!