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STYRENE-SURFER

They shoot horses, don't they?

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4 minutes ago, Codi said:

A lot of imagination to bring that manifold to life Kurt.  Like seeing the process.  For the Ford script, are you going to try to replicate that too?  It would be very cool if you could pull that off somehow too.  cheers, tim

Tim...

Ive got a set of '40 ford photo-etched details. There are a couple of pieces on this that could work.

I took this pic the other day and have decided that the one depicted (toothpick pointing at it) is a bit

too large. There are also two smaller ones on the same sheet, though I'd have to do some surgery.

Never messed with the stuff before😜

DSC01355.jpg.7d74d419e4fc41dbda1ab9e4b9ce6ed7.jpg

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A few more parts made this week. Have to tell you I had a little problem while cleaning some parts.

I had used some Lacquer based fill on some seems so long ago and forgot. Soaked them in some Isopropyl

without thinking correctly. Well that set me back and frustrated the heck out me.

back at it now. 

Firewall suport frame with steering/brake master cylinder and pedal support.

Scratch built pedal assembly and reworked Polar Lights funny car brake cylinder.

Thanks for help on that bit (other thread) 😊

P1000457.thumb.jpg.e68b814767c0bbf6e49a759aa05f3381.jpg

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Nice to see an update, clean work.

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Todays mock up. Still not too crazy about the bucket seat, small I think.

Next the throttle/gas pedal.

P1000458-vi.jpg

P1000459-vi.jpg

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Impeccable build quality! It is obvious that you have the touch with styrene and that you pay much attention to details. Superb !!!

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Posted (edited)
On 2/7/2020 at 6:45 PM, MeatMan said:

Sweet fabrication work once again!

 

On 2/10/2020 at 6:13 PM, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Impeccable build quality! It is obvious that you have the touch with styrene and that you pay much attention to details. Superb !!!

Thanks Dennis and Francis

Taking a break from tiny details to spent some time on the body. Added a grill fill as would be seen on some fiberglass front ends.

 

P1000485.thumb.jpg.389a59392f38495ab54f8e9420154e12.jpg.2aaab67e235db51dc2e3006b105e0f9a.jpg

Here it is w/my Manifold I mastered , cast by Norm at R&M. 

Had to lengthen the hood opening to fit the new engine blower arrangement (have know idea what I'll do about the bonnet). Details, details.

P1000484.jpg.a2958ae051d7cb9f9e2f0ae2b0d982a0.thumb.jpg.335cbf58bd35098e69e82516ce707c60.jpg

While working on the body, I thought I would try to fix the wonky rear wheel openings on the AMT kit.

I know they bug everyone else, and Snake especially LOL.         I was trying to give myself reason not to take this on,

and it my bite me in the a**.    Glued in some strips of 0.010" styrene.

P1000511.thumb.jpg.2fd1dc62a60717d6155dad7fb295df7e.jpg

The backside will have to be filled in above the strip on the inside, epoxy and micro balloons or milliput. haven't decided yet.

Either way by the time I sand off this oversized lip moulded into the body it will most likely break into the gap above the wheel opening.😜

P1000508.thumb.jpg.242ac3aa059d4a01f0f0ec29aac06279.jpg

 

 

Edited by STYRENE-SURFER

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Looks better already! Drive on! B)

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Posted (edited)

I like to use liquidized styrene for filler.  Throw some scrap bits in a spar jar, pour in liquid cement and in a few minutes it turns into a paste.  I apply it with an old paint brush.  Once it sets up it can be sanded and shaped.  Would be a good option for the backside of your wheel openings.

 

Edited by afx

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Thanx guys...

I ended up using the milliput . Quick, easy and my preference these days until something tells me different.

Masked off the surrounding area w/tape for the initial rough sanding. Here is how it looks.

Will need further fine sanding and a new slight flair added.

I modified some Polar Lights funny car wheels to fit Revell's K S pitman H&M slicks. Undecided on the front wheels.

fendernew.jpg.9b7bd30f04feaa32efd65950bec095b1.jpg

 

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Posted (edited)

Great to see her standing on her own - quite the looker!

Edited by afx

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VERY nice! Looks great! Drive on! B)

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Posted (edited)

Haven't had time to update things in quite a while, so here goes...

About the Polar Lights Funny Car wheels and Revell K S Pitman slicks.

The outside wheel rim diameter is just about the same as the inside tire diameter.

So without some modification will fall to deep into the tire (hope that made any sense)

I glued a ring on the wheel, set to the proper depth to help center it and also not fall through .

P1000524-vi.jpg

For the rear wheel arches I have added another 0.02 strip of Evergreen cut to a pattern I drew on paper that was wrapped around a section of gift wrap cardboard roll.

This was glued under the earlier 0.01 strip from my post above. (same technique was used) There is plenty of material sitting proud of the body that will be sanded

back (nearly all of it) leaving some for a much smaller LIP with some filler needed of course. 

(Tape is holding the strip onto the cardboard roll for glueing)

P1000528-vi.jpg

The strip is glued under the earlier one thus making the wheel opening smaller.

P1000530-vi.jpg

😊

Edited by STYRENE-SURFER

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Inspired by the pic you posted in my Mustang thread, yesterday I did something similar to mine. I used one strip of .040 on each side. I curved these somewhat by "curling" them under a steel ruler, glued them in place with a HOT liquid cement, and strapped 'em down with masking tape while it dried. Last night I pulled the tape off and filled the backside with Loctite Super Glue Gel (and you know why this HAS to be done). Today I hope to get the whole stinky mess filed down flush. Dunno if I'll add a lip later or not, we'll see how the quarters look "flat." Thanks for the inspiration! B)

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Kurt I love how this build is going and how you work through issues you encounter example slick and rim fitment..

I look forward to future updates.

Edgar 

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Your work is very impressive. I look forward to seeing this car done.

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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Inspired by the pic you posted in my Mustang thread, yesterday I did something similar to mine. I used one strip of .040 on each side. I curved these somewhat by "curling" them under a steel ruler, glued them in place with a HOT liquid cement, and strapped 'em down with masking tape while it dried. Last night I pulled the tape off and filled the backside with Loctite Super Glue Gel (and you know why this HAS to be done). Today I hope to get the whole stinky mess filed down flush. Dunno if I'll add a lip later or not, we'll see how the quarters look "flat." Thanks for the inspiration! B)

Okay, here's where mine is today. Got it worked down. The "shadow" above the cutout is superglue gel, squirted in last night from the backside. If I hadn't done this, I'd have a gap there after filing off the lip. 

The .040 reduction (.080" diameter, or a full two scale inches) makes a big difference. The opening no longer looks outrageously/comically oversize with normal big slicks. 

BTW, it's sitting on a chassis I built last year for a Falcon AWB, just to see what it looked like. I'll be building a new chassis for the Mustang. 

66MustangAWB027.jpg.5334677a7902415bfb8908f16173a7c5.jpg

Edited by Snake45

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Good technique to fine tune the wheel openings Kurt!  Thanks for sharing this ingenious trick!!  I do like your approach on improving things.  Keep doing your great work!!!

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Thank you all for your kind comments.

22 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Okay, here's where mine is today. Got it worked down. The "shadow" above the cutout is superglue gel, squirted in last night from the backside. If I hadn't done this, I'd have a gap there after filing off the lip. 

The .040 reduction (.080" diameter, or a full two scale inches) makes a big difference. The opening no longer looks outrageously/comically oversize with normal big slicks. 

BTW, it's sitting on a chassis I built last year for a Falcon AWB, just to see what it looked like. I'll be building a new chassis for the Mustang. 

66MustangAWB027.jpg.5334677a7902415bfb8908f16173a7c5.jpg

You can see in Snakes photo the importance of back filling the wheel lip/flare. It shows up much clearer than on my pic's.

We both spent nearly the same amount of time on the filing/sanding. I wonder were those cool pad printed Racemaster 

slicks came from😎👍.

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Oh, one other mod I made. I sanded the rear edge of the side "cove" back to a straight line. On the kit body, it's curved to match the wheel opening, which kind of makes sense with the original size and the lip. Doesn't need to be that way now, and I think it looks better straightened out. B)

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3 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Oh, one other mod I made. I sanded the rear edge of the side "cove" back to a straight line. On the kit body, it's curved to match the wheel opening, which kind of makes sense with the original size and the lip.

Oh, that is another thing I wasn't going to bring up.😜

Snake... that is a fiddley bit I was hoping others would over look.

That and the asymmetri side to side. Arrrgh.😧

All good AMT fun.

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