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I hope this is in the right place as there isn't a "services wanted" section here. I'm looking for someone who uses Alclad chrome and can do a good job on a grille for me. I have the W900L grille for by BRBO project, but the grille is 3D printed and can't be plated via the usual method which for me is Chrome Tech USA. The next best thing from what I've heard is Alclad via air brush. I don't use an air brush so I'm looking for someone to do the grille for me in Alclad chrome. I will pay for your services and return shipping of course. If anyone out there can help me with this please let me know at perhach2@mediacombb.net or via PM. Thanks! Mike :)

 

 

20160413_125523.jpg

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mike , i have ordered a produkt from uschi von der rosten

its a powder in chrome and the only thing you must do is paint the things you want have chrome mat black

after drying you put some powder on and with a tread rod [ is that correct? ] you rub it and it turn in chrome

look for uschi van der rosten and you can see a video how to do it

hope its help,s

the have also metal and some other stuff

jacobus

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Jacobus. I checked out the website and video, but unfortunately to me the finished product looks like shiny silver. I know there really is nothing out there, short of actual plating, that comes out to look like true chrome, but my guess is that the closest I'm going to get is to find someone who can apply either Alclad or Spaz Stix using an air brush. I've even thought of trying to use BMF but given the detail and small size of the grille that may not turn out well. I suppose it'll be worth a try.

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I thought you could get Spaz in an aerosol can? I could be wrong. Alclad is great stuff. I got an airbrush from Harbor Freight for like 15 bucks on sale just so I could spray Alclad. I added an adjustable regulator and its served me well.

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I thought you could get Spaz in an aerosol can?

I tried it already and at least the aerosol version comes out like shiny silver. I watched the videos, used a black base, did light coats, etc., etc., etc.

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The trick with Alclad is to paint it with very low pressure and from a distance.I spray about 8" away and such a light mist you wont even see any color untill about the 3rd or 4th time.   Maybe that is how you need to try the Spaz. I have never used it so I dont know for sure.

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Does the 3D printed surface have a slight grain to it? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I remember reading that the surface needs to be really smooth for Alclad just like chrome plating. I haven't used Alclad yet, but I have some along with an airbrush I haven't used either. I really need to just jump in and try it. I really hope the project works out well for you.

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Does the 3D printed surface have a slight grain to it? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I remember reading that the surface needs to be really smooth for Alclad just like chrome plating. I haven't used Alclad yet, but I have some along with an airbrush I haven't used either. I really need to just jump in and try it. I really hope the project works out well for you.

Yes it does, I used several coats of Tamiya fine primer on my grill to help eradicate them.

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I hope this is in the right place as there isn't a "services wanted" section here. I'm looking for someone who uses Alclad chrome and can do a good job on a grille for me. I have the W900L grille for by BRBO project, but the grille is 3D printed and can't be plated via the usual method which for me is Chrome Tech USA. The next best thing from what I've heard is Alclad via air brush. I don't use an air brush so I'm looking for someone to do the grille for me in Alclad chrome. I will pay for your services and return shipping of course. If anyone out there can help me with this please let me know at perhach2@mediacombb.net or via PM. Thanks! Mike :)

 

 

20160413_125523.jpg

I believe Alclad comes in a spray can also. I know that Spas-Stix does and you can get it where they sell R/C cars. I've tried Spaz-Stix Mirror Chrome a few times and I like it a lot.

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Does the 3D printed surface have a slight grain to it?

There are several types of 3D printing that use different materials. The 3D full fenders I had purchased from Shapeways are white and very grainy. The grille is an almost milky, semi-clear color and has some imperfections but nowhere near grainy. Bob at Chrome Tech has told me a couple of times that he's had absolutely no luck with 3D parts. After trying aerosol Spaz Stix I'm hesitant to try aerosol Alclad.

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Any surface that is to have Alclad applied has to be ultra smooth. Thee are a few ways you can acheive this. There are some products for 3-D printed parts. Smooth On makes a coating that can be applied to the parts, let dry and sanded to fill in the lines left by printing process.  I have also heard that some 3-D filaments can be sanded to remove the lines. The gloss black undercoat used by many when put on a little heavily can also help. I've used Tamiya gloss black spray from a rattle can with good results. As mentioned above, Alclad sprayed at as low a pressure as you can get away with,  very thin mist type coats, and at multiple angles is the key to success. You may wish to try a gloss gray enamel instead of black to reduce the "dark" tone of the "chrome". Hope this helps!

G

David 

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Mike I have used Alclad on my Pete with an Airbrush. Nice Primer coat sanded smooth and Tamiya Gloss Black. Very light coats with Alclad works very well. Use a low air pressure. I like the stuff.

 

 

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Hmm. Last five years I tried to find best chrome colour. Trust me, best is Spaz Stix mirror chrome 10.000 sprayed by airbrush. More resistant like alclad. Very simple I can say... Spaz is dumb resistant. Next version is try to use Mr.color SM008 plate silver. After short and light polishing it is like a mirror. And resistant like lacquer color. For example: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/112919-kenworth-w900a-silver-edition-revell-125/all chrome part (excl.exhausts - PE, grille - PE) are airbrushed

by spaz. Take a look on battery covers...

 

Edited by Pavel A.

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I appreciate all the info and advice guys but I have to reiterate that I don't use an airbrush. It's not that I'm too lazy to buy one and learn how to use it. I live in an apartment and my painting is limited to nice outdoor conditions (warm & little or no wind). This is why I'm looking for someone who uses an airbrush and can spray my grille with either Spaz Stix or Alclad. ;)

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I feel your pain Mike. I have an airbrush, tried Alclad, and didn't get the results. My inexperience and impatience. Because of that, some of my builds that need this step, are boxed up and put away. Someday, I'll get the airbrush out and give it a shot again. I need to be patient and not expect results, NOW. Hopefully you can figure something out soon.

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Has anyone here ever used C1 buffing metalizer powder? c1-models.com - I'm curious to try it.

I wonder if this may be an option. I think there may have been a mention in Model Cars Mag sometime recently in the new products area.

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Has anyone here ever used C1 buffing metalizer powder? c1-models.com - I'm curious to try it.

I wonder if this may be an option. I think there may have been a mention in Model Cars Mag sometime recently in the new products area.

I've looked into this product more by searching on this forum and elsewhere and I plan to order some through scalefinishes.com 

Judging by photos, It seems to have the potential to be as good or nearly as good as Alclad, and much better than any spray chrome. In fact, some of the results, like those from Art Anderson and the C1 website are amazingly good.

 

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Mike, I would like to offer a couple of words of encouragement and advice if I might. I do not claim to be an expert, by any means, but I want to share my results.

I use both Alclad and Spas Stixx, another version of Alclad, and have gotten, what I think are very satisfactory results. What I think is the trick, for me anyway, is lots of VERY light coats, and after it has cured overnight, polish with a dry Qtip. I have a Passche VL that has a control to limit the trigger's rearward travel, limiting the amount of material picked up. By setting it so low, you have to watch the surface you are painting to see the SLOW color change. Build the coats very slowly, let it dry, rub it with a Qtip, and this is the result. I have even used S n J polishing powder, finely ground aluminum,  in conjunction with Alclad with really good results. The wheels are pieced together Italeri and Revell parts and the tanks, quarter fenders, and visor are kit parts mist-coated until very bright and then polished. It is fairly easy to do, just time consuming. But patience really does pay off. A little practice and anyone can get this look. post-11762-0-05358900-1405711508_thumb.jpost-11762-0-45466600-1385254990_thumb.j

Edited by purepmd

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Mike, I would like to offer a couple of words of encouragement and advice if I might. I do not claim to be an expert, by any means, but I want to share my results.

I use both Alclad and Spas Stixx, another version of Alclad, and have gotten, what I think are very satisfactory results. What I think is the trick, for me anyway, is lots of VERY light coats, and after it has cured overnight, polish with a dry Qtip. I have a Passche VL that has a control to limit the trigger's rearward travel, limiting the amount of material picked up. By setting it so low, you have to watch the surface you are painting to see the SLOW color change. Build the coats very slowly, let it dry, rub it with a Qtip, and this is the result. I have even used S n J polishing powder, finely ground aluminum,  in conjunction with Alclad with really good results. The wheels are pieced together Italeri and Revell parts and the tanks, quarter fenders, and visor are kit parts mist-coated until very bright and then polished. It is fairly easy to do, just time consuming. But patience really does pay off. A little practice and anyone can get this look. 

I appreciate your input and photos Mark, but again, I don't use an air brush. About the only way to spray light coats with a rattle can is to increase the distance between the can and the part, so it's a much less exact science than adjusting settings on an air brush.

My goal from my original post on has been to simply send the raw grille to someone, have them do their magic with either Alclad or Spaz Stix, and have them return it. While I appreciate the air brush advice it really doesn't apply to me. I've actually put the grille aside as an "I'll worry about it later" part of my BRBO project.:)

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Hey Mike, sent you a P.M. about the next time I will have the Alclad loaded in the airbrush.

Mark.

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Hey Mike, sent you a P.M. about the next time I will have the Alclad loaded in the airbrush.

Mark.

Crisis averted thanks to Mark, we can all stand down! :lol:

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Has anyone here ever used C1 buffing metalizer powder? c1-models.com - I'm curious to try it.

I wonder if this may be an option. I think there may have been a mention in Model Cars Mag sometime recently in the new products area.

Did a product review for it,  I had issues getting the chrome like finish , but that could of just been me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfnJwFYs89Q&feature=youtu.be

Edited by martinfan5

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IMG 3093

Alclad indeed comes in spray cans.  I've been using it the past few years.  My first use was the Model King release of the 1979 Ford pickup. I built one of the box art vehicles from a test shot that didn't come with any chrome.  

MVC-007F.JPG

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