GTJUNIOR Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 Beautiful Harry, just beautiful. Your building skills are inspiring.
peteski Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 The guards on the windows on each end of the passenger cabin were scratchbuilt using styrene rod and strip... And installed... As usual, superb job and documentation. However, I'm wondering if those guards aren't a bit out of scale (too thick). They look like they are about scale 2" in diameter.Wouldn't they be closer in thickness to those handrails you made from brass rod?
Harry P. Posted April 28, 2016 Author Posted April 28, 2016 Probably. But I used the rod I had on hand, didn't want to bother making a trip.
cobraman Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 Really looking good. I hate when a kit has a lot of nice detail but when it's assembled you can see little to none of it.
sjordan2 Posted April 28, 2016 Posted April 28, 2016 Really looking good. I hate when a kit has a lot of nice detail but when it's assembled you can see little to none of it. Me? I'd make the roof removable.
Harry P. Posted April 28, 2016 Author Posted April 28, 2016 Me? I'd make the roof removable.That would require a huge re-engineering of how most of the body and roof parts fit together. There's not all that much to see inside, anyway. The side windows are big enough to let you see inside.
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 29, 2016 Posted April 29, 2016 Very nice. Reminds me of the model RR stuff I built in the dim recesses of history. Yours here is much larger scale, but the build technique is much the same as some of the older wooden passenger cars.
Harry P. Posted April 29, 2016 Author Posted April 29, 2016 Here is the start of the chassis. The flanges on the side frames are supposed to be made with strips of aluminum supplied in the kit, but I thought that strips of thin cardboard would be easier to work with. I used an old USPC mailing envelope; the thickness was just right for making the flanges...
Harry P. Posted April 29, 2016 Author Posted April 29, 2016 After I planked the roof with 2x5mm strips of basswood, I had to figure out a way to hide all the seams. At first I thought I'd just Bondo everything, but that would have been hard to do... and would have created a huge mess of dust that would get into the interior and I'd have no way of cleaning it out. So I went with Plan B and covered the roof with thin cardstock instead. Here is the roof with much of the details installed...
slusher Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) Coming along great Harry. Edited April 30, 2016 by slusher
Harry P. Posted April 30, 2016 Author Posted April 30, 2016 Skipping around again... building the trolley is definitely the hardest part of this entire process. You have to form brass rod to shape using the full-scale templates provided, then attach the various pieces to each other. I used CA to glue the parts together, then wrapped the joints with thread and flowed CA over the wrapped joints to hold everything together. The base is a photoetched part supplied in the kit...
Harry P. Posted April 30, 2016 Author Posted April 30, 2016 The completed trolley assembly is a combination of brass rod, photoetched metal, machined brass, laser-cut wood, and copper wire (the tension spring). Truly a "multi-media" assembly. All of this will eventually be painted "steel."
Crazy Ed Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 Â Â REally good job on the Trolly assembly Harry. I think at that point I'd be giving serious thought to turning it into a Dinner!
Cato Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 Why not solder the brass Harry? Only five connections and no thread showing.
Harry P. Posted May 1, 2016 Author Posted May 1, 2016 Why not solder the brass Harry? Only five connections and no thread showing. Just following the instructions. Maybe the real thing had some sort of wrapped joint? Don't know... I can't find any photos online that shows that detail.
Cato Posted May 2, 2016 Posted May 2, 2016 Just following the instructions. Maybe the real thing had some sort of wrapped joint? Don't know... I can't find any photos online that shows that detail. Plenty good reason. I don't think real catenary had wrapped joints with 600+ volts running down them. Found a lot of shots of catenary but none close enough to see the joins in the lines.
Harry P. Posted May 2, 2016 Author Posted May 2, 2016 I'm assuming the kit designers based their work on an actual Stuttgart tram. I couldn't find any photos of that particular Stuttgart tram that showed the trolley details, but I did find this photo of a Hungarian tram car. Same era, very similar trolley structure. If you look closely, it does look like the trolley joints are wrapped somehow...
peteski Posted May 2, 2016 Posted May 2, 2016 Probably. But I used the rod I had on hand, didn't want to bother making a trip. Guy like you doesn't have a well-stocked workshop?
sjordan2 Posted May 2, 2016 Posted May 2, 2016 I don't know if you've found this site, but there are lots of good hi-res shots of ol' 222 here. http://www.drehscheibe-online.de/foren/read.php?5,4341433
Harry P. Posted May 2, 2016 Author Posted May 2, 2016 Oh man! I wish I had those photos before I started this! Better late than never, though. Thanks, Skip. Once again the master of online research comes through!
sjordan2 Posted May 2, 2016 Posted May 2, 2016 Oh man! I wish I had those photos before I started this! Better late than never, though. Thanks, Skip. Once again the master of online research comes through! There seemed to be some questions about the electrical thingy on the roof, so I thought I'd check it out. I would bet that these photos show modern adaptations, though the kit maker was probably aware of them.
Harry P. Posted May 2, 2016 Author Posted May 2, 2016 Yeah, the trolley assembly is apparently not particularly accurate... where the kit calls for wrapping the joints with thread, it looks like the real thing has some sort of mechanical fasteners. Oh well... too late now, I'm not going to go back and re-do the trolley. But the photos on that site do reinforce a lot of things that I was questioning. The kit is actually a lot more accurate that I thought it was.
sjordan2 Posted May 2, 2016 Posted May 2, 2016 (edited) I'd say you nailed it. I couldn't figure out the role of the vertical rod on the front -- maybe a drop-down stabilizer to keep the car in place when it's at rest? Edited May 2, 2016 by sjordan2
Harry P. Posted May 4, 2016 Author Posted May 4, 2016 The springs are cast white metal. After a little cleanup of minor flash, I painted them a dark metallic "steel" color, then added a black wash to bring out the details...
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