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Porsche 959 Paris Dakar, and Speedster


89AKurt

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Seeing if I can stay sane building two models at the same time.  The Paris Dakar 959 is a really nice resin transkit, and I could not let the donor kit just sit in the box, so I am also building something different.  The fun thing about a project like this, I need to be accurate with the race car, but can design as I go with the Speedster.  A disappointment is how Tamiya left out the intercoolers and piping, and the transkit ignores that feature too!

The Paris Dakar 959 pushed the envelope in it's day, and I have seen 1:18 die cast models.  But it really needs to be done like it was rode hard and hung up wet, perhaps scraping it along the ground will add appropriate texture.  I have found some fitment issues, otherwise so far so good.

The Speedster, I know it would be sacrilegious to hack up a real 911 Speedster and 959, but that's what's fun about models!  I built a 930 slant nose Turbo Speedster with some of the parts, other parts are in another project (stalled for some time).  I'm thinking of hinging the door on the bottom, so it could be used as a camera car.  It's also just a Curbside.

Good & Evil Twins.

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  • 1 year later...

Restarting the Paris-Dakar, I really began April 2018, I did finish the Club Sport (correct name) camera car.  It's been a case of analyzed until I'm paralyzed, made several errors, and am stumped on the details of the turbo plumbing.  I'm jonesing to start a new model, but this has a little voice that whispers "you better finish me you dog!"  It's one thing to dream up details and engineer something that does not exist, quite another to find out enough information without buying an expensive book, it's interesting how there are no pictures of the turbos and pipes through the single intercooler there are, so I guess nobody will be able to tell me I did it wrong, will they?  I was futzing with the interior when I stopped, the panel under what was the back window needs adjusting, *after* I had painted everything.  I want to fill the interior with stuff, and have no idea what was used for water, I'm sure disposable water bottles were not invented yet, and they would fly all over, so should I just make a canteen?  Stupid stuff, so I just need to jump and git'er done man!

Looked over the body one more time, wet-sanded it.  I wanted to short-cut doing primer, which must be a mistake, because when the Testors gloss white was going on, it was almost like there was oil on the body.  Some of it will be painted blue, and lots of decals, and lots and lots of dirt and dust and mud are going on this puppy, so move on I must!

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On 7/4/2019 at 12:25 AM, Dann Tier said:

Looking GREAT, bud!!!

You're too kind.  B)

I looked at several kits thinking about starting a new project, but this was bugging me.  I thought about the challenge of racing the real car, across the Third World of North Africa, because I was looking at pictures for reference.  Man, they had to rebuild the suspension at least once, on the sand, no cozy garage to work in.  I needed to decide which car to do, Jacky Icyx 185 was picked mainly for his famous name, but am also going to damage the body, right front fender (other car had damaged the left front fender).  I will "weather" it really good, like this picture, because a pet peeve of mine is seeing a clean rally car.  The kit has many photo-etch parts, but no tow rings!
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I tested the paint, by sticking on masking tape and, and peeling off, passed the test.  Wet-sanded a little, then glued on the photo-etch grills.  The roof lights have a shroud, that was a challenge to bend, the bender helped out because of the holes.  I airbrushed flat white mainly over the p-e, then gloss white again.
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I airbrushed Alclad flat aluminum on the wheels, hoping to simulate the sand-blasted off white paint.  I also did some Testors flat aluminum, including the leading edge of the suspension, and wheel wells; it's going to get buried under the mud/dust so not a big deal.  Worked on the tires, used the gnarliest emory cloth to wear them down, except the spare tire, which I had considered making a blow-out but decided I wanted to finish this.  :rolleyes:
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On 7/6/2019 at 6:18 PM, Rider said:

Your plan sounds bang on, I like the blown out spare and fender damage. 

 Good luck.

Looking real good. 

I skipping the blown spare, but will add straps.

On 7/7/2019 at 3:24 AM, Dann Tier said:

Cant wait to see your "weathering" on this one!!!!

Me more than you! :lol:

On 7/7/2019 at 4:03 AM, afx said:

Nope, no cozy garage to perform repairs between stages.

[...]

This shot is really helpful, shows intercooler, but plumbing is hidden.  Note halfshaft on the ground.
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Started the decals.  The multiple color ones are super thick, almost like a vinyl sticker, having trouble cutting the jamb lines after applying, and Solvaset does not do anything.  They are very well done though!  For the engine lid 33, and the nose 40, I better cut before applying.  I've encountered some mistakes and overlooked decals in the instructions, the RECARO seat is a guess, and there are two Porsche 21 that don't show up anywhere, even in the photos.  Wished I had painted the windows black, had trouble with size and the recess for the fuel cap.
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On 7/9/2019 at 3:35 PM, Dann Tier said:

Absolutely STUNNING, bud!!!!

Hold yer' horses pardner, I ain't done yet! :lol:

Got the last decals on the body today!  I cut apart the piece on the engine lid at the grill, cut the long stripe at the headlights, and cut out the grill openings at the front, with 45° cuts so the edges would get covered.  Really had to nurse these to get them to conform, Solvaset barely helped!  The door windows are really high quality resin, hard to cut off, used the Dremel, then sanded the lower edge until it fit snug.  I had wet-sanded slightly to get rid of dust bumps.  Then I realized that I needed to get red paint, good thing Hobby Lobby is 10 minutes away.
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Touched up red, blue and gold spots.  I airbrushed a quick coat of clear gloss, did not want shiny.  Used a micro pen to do the jamb lines.  Bare Metal Foil used on the latch plates, and light reflectors.  Glued on everything but the windshield, headlight covers (want Elmers to completely dry).  Photo-etch parts are next!
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So this is at museum condition, if I wanted to.  But the next steps are going to be really fun!  Going to grind the lower front valance, and especially the skid plates, into the street! :blink:  Then going to stab a worn out paintbrush into acrylic paint mixed with tile grout, and go nuts on the bottom, then several layers of dust and dirt sprayed on.  I can hardly wait!  But really need to finish the engine next. :wacko:
Funny note: they did not have the KKK Turbolader Schmitthelm sponsor logos on during the race, only after Porsche kicked butt did they want it, and car 186 has Michelin tires mounted.
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On 7/9/2019 at 8:59 AM, 89AKurt said:

 

Started the decals.  The multiple color ones are super thick, almost like a vinyl sticker, having trouble cutting the jamb lines after applying, and Solvaset does not do anything.

I personally Use Microset/Microsol, and one thing I've found on super bendy/rounded shapes with multiple angles/curves is that it can take 3-4 applications of micro sol with lots of drying time in between.

 

Love the car, love Porsche in general, and I can't wait to see what weathering pictures are to come.

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5 hours ago, porschercr said:

Looks Great!

Thanks!

3 hours ago, Ensis Ferrae said:

I personally Use Microset/Microsol, and one thing I've found on super bendy/rounded shapes with multiple angles/curves is that it can take 3-4 applications of micro sol with lots of drying time in between.

Love the car, love Porsche in general, and I can't wait to see what weathering pictures are to come.

I think that is less harsh on decals, when I've encountered delicate decals that melt with Solvaset, I use Microset.  Neither can I, but I really REALLY need to face the challenge of the intercooler, before "weathering" it.

But, I did glue on the photo-etch hood pins!  The instructions show the two parts incorrectly, I studied the museum pictures to figure out how these work, and I still don't know, but I rotated the top part, and they look closer to the real thing.
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Pet peeve of mine, not realistic mirrors.  I salvaged the mirror from a dead digital camera LCD.  The Waldron punch had the perfect size.  The Nikon 300MM lens has a very short depth of field, so can't tell it's really reflecting.
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  • 1 month later...

Vacation took the wind out of my progress, finally resumed this weekend.   I had to review what was done, and decide what should be made accurate, what should be super-detailed, what needs correction, and what would be good enough to look realistic.

First thing to correct was the aluminum engine support at the tail end, the first one looked like it was salvaged out of a wreck.  I had acquired a photo-etch bender since then, so it took only three tries to get a better looking part.  Added more plastic plate where my screw body/chassis mounts are.  The black interior panel that is under what was the back window was bugging me too.  I have added some flat panels to eliminate the see-through hollow look.
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Next task is seat belts.  Is there anyone who really LIKES doing this??  Thought the kit had belt material, but I may have misplaced or forgot it didn't, so used fabric ribbon. I might figure out how to thread it through the p-e parts, super-gluing the ends a little, cutting one side with a taper, expecting to cut the end off before putting on the last piece seems to work.  I punched out an aluminum disk to add depth to the buckle part.DSC_1334_Fotor.thumb.jpg.a9991250ad6de16848356f36dd814a38.jpg
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I don't like brush painting at all, but in this case it's better than masking like crazy and/or having overspray. Inside the body got painted, in the case of the interior I assume the body was painted white.  There have been part conflict fitment issues, and the roll cage is the next thing to be screwed with.
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Next thing to "fix" is making a spare tire mount, the lousy instructions just show it dropped in, but the photo of the model on the last page shows straps to hold it in, but still level, race pictures shows it was mounted against the "window" panel.  Also need to make some cargo items to fill up the back.  Once the interior is done, I can assemble the body to pan.  Then the dreaded turbo plumbing.

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Almost done with the interior.  Made the spare tire mount from solder and punched a plastic disk, drilled a hole in the pan, glued it in.  My theory is they kept it to a minimum, and nobody is going to see it anyway.  Made a cardboard box, cut a wood block, wrapped with grocery sack that is cut like a box.  The second bag is one I made for my VW Beetle project, it filled a corner good enough.  The black bag came with the transkit.  The shoulder belts have the decal for the label, I taped down the belts, applied some Tacky glue into the belts where that goes, then applied figuring the combination of the glue and decal adhesive would really work and it seems to (fingers crossed).  There was no indication how the belts attached to the cage, so I just glued on behind the seats, then added photo-etch nut heads to the tiny holes on the kit parts.  I will spray flat clear with a drop of tan in the interior, then glue down the belts, and then dust with tile grout.  Last things to make will be water bottles, they had to have carried water in the freaking desert, saw a video of a race in Egypt and caught this pit stop.
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I'm determined to finish this!  Have a model club meeting this Saturday. ?  Made water bottles from sprue, and cages from aluminum plate.
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Added plug wires to the engine, before gluing it into the chassis.  The wheel shafts need to be trimmed down, that's why they are sticking way out.  Hope this is the last time screwing the body and chassis together.  Fabricated the spare tire strap from paper and photo-etch fret.
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The intercooler is to be glued to the hood, zero turbo plumbing in the original Tamiya kit and transkit.  This drives me nuts!  Need to fabricate a convincing mount for the intercooler, and redo the piping.  I cut the turbos apart, rotated the compressors so the outlet points to the center, not outward.  Gonna be fun cramming all that into the remaining space.
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