Spraying metallics, fixing dust problem, and polishing/waxing etc.

[Nitrobarry]

Ok, I know this subject has probably been covered a billion times, but I`m in need of a couple of definitive answers. First, if dust is found on a metallic paint job, can you sand or polish it out? It`s almost impossible, no matter what precautions you take, to keep dust off the part/body. The color I want to use is a dark pearl blue metallic. It`s Model Master two stage so I need to clear coat it. Second, after clear coating, and wet sanding, do I polish, wax and THEN apply decals? Or do I apply decals and then wax? seems to me, if I apply decals, then wax, whatever chemicals that are in the wax may take the decals off! Don`t want that. Anyone?

[Ace-Garageguy]

1) After you lightly sand the dust nib out, you will ALMOST CERTAINLY need to dust a little color over the area BEFORE YOU CLEAR.

The metallic particles are USUALLY uncovered by sanding, and this will make an obvious blotch, even after it's cleared...IF YOU DON'T TOUCH UP THE COLOR.

2) Most of us advise AGAINST wax. It will cause decals to not adhere well...and if you get a good polished surface on your paint, it's just not necessary.

 

[Nitrobarry]

Thanks!

[Miatatom]

I'm not so sure about applying decals to a waxed finish.

[Bainford]

Personally, I am a big fan of wax. Regardless of the shine I get after polishing, I find the sheen provided by waxing amps up the realism. I use Tamiya wax. Wax must always be the last thing you do to a body. Decals, paint, glue, etc won't stick once the thing is waxed. I have never had an issue with wax having a negative effect on decals. In fact, I find it improves their appearance.

It's probably worth mentioning here that I rarely ever clear coat my paint, again for reasons of realism. To my eye, clear coated paint generally looks unrealistic, and perhaps that is the reason the waxed finish looks good to my eye. Metallic paints being the exception, of course, but I mostly paint in solid colours.

I also polish and wax the kit glass which does great things for improving clarity and reducing optical distortion, and it makes removing fingerprints easy.

Just another POV.

Edited October 22, 2018 by Bainford

[Ace-Garageguy]

25 minutes ago, Bainford said:

Personally, I am a big fan of wax. Regardless of the shine I get after polishing, I find the sheen provided by waxing amps up the realism. I use Tamiya wax. Wax must always be the last thing you do to a body...

Just another POV.

 Definitely more than one way to skin this cat, so whatever works for any individual...works. 

The important thing is what Trevor states above...if you're going to wax, wax LAST.

[Nitrobarry]

Thanks to all who replied! The bit about not clear coating as it looks unrealistic is interesting in that I find that to be true on 1:1 cars. They`re TOO shiny to me.

[Ace-Garageguy]

What ruins the scale realism most of the time is when the clear becomes excessively thick, giving the model a dipped-in-syrup look.

Do it right, it looks right.

Some metallics HAVE to be cleared, some don't. The Testors basecoats generally need to be cleared if you want to polish them. Otherwise, they remain semi-flat.

Some Duplicolor pearls and micas CAN be polished to a decent gloss with no clear; some get blotchy when you polish them.

Edited October 22, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy

[Nitrobarry]

Thanks for your input.

[StevenGuthmiller]

In most cases, if your dust particle is small enough, you're better off clear coating over the entire body before polishing it out.

This way, you will not disturb the metallic particles when polishing.

99% of the time, when I resolve the issue in this way, if there is any indication that there was a dust speck in the paint, it is nearly imperceptible, to the point where you may only be able to see it under magnification.

I rarely worry about a couple of small imperfections in my paint jobs using this method.

It normally will take care of the issue.

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 10/22/2018 at 2:08 PM, Bainford said:

It's probably worth mentioning here that I rarely ever clear coat my paint, again for reasons of realism. To my eye, clear coated paint generally looks unrealistic

You're probably correct to a point.

Clear coating and leaving it as is can make a paint job look "candy like" ruining any realism.

That's where polishing comes in.

While polishing will not only give you a brilliant shine, it will also knock down that "candy" look and give you a very realistic appearance.

In my opinion, much more realistic than any paint that is just shot on and left alone.

 

Steve

[Snake45]

5 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

In most cases, if your dust particle is small enough, you're better off clear coating over the entire body before polishing it out.

This way, you will not disturb the metallic particles when polishing.

99% of the time, when I resolve the issue in this way, if there is any indication that there was a dust speck in the paint, it is nearly imperceptible, to the point where you may only be able to see it under magnification.

I rarely worry about a couple of small imperfections in my paint jobs using this method.

It normally will take care of the issue.

 

Steve

Had this exact thing happen to me the other day. After the final clear coat was applied, I discovered a fairly large dust (or something) booger somewhere in the finish, probably in the color coats. But after wet-sanding and polishing, you can't even see where it once was. 

[Snake45]

On 10/22/2018 at 6:15 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

Some metallics HAVE to be cleared, some don't. The Testors basecoats generally need to be cleared if you want to polish them. Otherwise, they remain semi-flat.

Some Duplicolor pearls and micas CAN be polished to a decent gloss with no clear; some get blotchy when you polish them.

I have successfully polished out, WITHOUT clear coating: Model Master Arctic Blue (airbrushed), MM British Green (airbrushed), and MM Honduras Maroon (from a rattlecan). 

I FAILED to polish, without clearcoating: Model Master Stop Light Red (airbrushed), MM Burgundy (airbrushed) and Testor Mythic Maroon (from the can). These all came out blotchy and uneven and the paint had to be re-done, this time with clear. All eventually came out fine.