Gerald Haney Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 This a rebuild given to me by a model friend. He purchased it at a swap meet it wasn’t too bad of a glue bomb. He put a quickie Earl Scheib paint job on it. Red & white as shown in pic. I soaked it in 91% alcohol and used a toothbrush. I got it fairly cleaned and I repainted. It’s sky blue Vallejo and rattle white top. Cleared with rattlecan. He also gave me the 56 nomad. It was rougher an so I’m using the best parts to complete the 55. I got some foil work done this morning. Tinting the windows wiring the engine and that’ll be all. I named it Huckleberry Hound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deuces Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Cool.... ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Looking good! Drive on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Nice redo on your '55 Nomad. Did you open the tailgate or is that the way AMT did that ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTallDad Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Nice colors! I had a 1:1 '55 2-dr sedan in the same colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Haney Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 2 hours ago, espo said: Nice redo on your '55 Nomad. Did you open the tailgate or is that the way AMT did that ?? Thanks man. It was opened when he passed it along to me. I believe it came that way from AMT. 1 hour ago, BigTallDad said: Nice colors! I had a 1:1 '55 2-dr sedan in the same colors. Nice model and I’m sure I would’ve loved the 1:1 too. Those tri5’s are just classics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTallDad Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 48 minutes ago, Gerald Haney said: Nice model and I’m sure I would’ve loved the 1:1 too. Those tri5’s are just classics. My '55 ended up with a highly-modified 327 that would rev up to 8,500 or so...GTOs were lunch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Haney Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 That’s really ? cool man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
66belair Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Those are looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldcarfan27 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Looks cool so far, now use the leftover 55 Nomad parts to make a gasser 56. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Haney Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 I got Little more progress done on the nomad. Not much though. Hopefully i’ll begin work on engine soon. Trying to the tint windows using a piece of window tint film cut to size. Challenging attaching without it leaving a noticeable spot. Does anyone have any recommendations or suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 I use a product called Micro Crystal Clear for attaching a lot of parts including Windows. I apply it with a very small brush when gluing small parts. It dries clear and seems to remain slightly flexible rather than brittle. It avoids the fogging effect sometimes caused by super glue so is perfect for those windows,clear lenses and really small stuff like mirrors,etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Pol Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 On 04/11/2018 at 9:57 PM, Gerald Haney said: This a rebuild given to me by a model friend. He purchased it at a swap meet it wasn’t too bad of a glue bomb. He put a quickie Earl Scheib paint job on it. Red & white as shown in pic. I soaked it in 91% alcohol and used a toothbrush. I got it fairly cleaned and I repainted. It’s sky blue Vallejo and rattle white top. Cleared with rattlecan. He also gave me the 56 nomad. It was rougher an so I’m using the best parts to complete the 55. I got some foil work done this morning. Tinting the windows wiring the engine and that’ll be all. I named it Huckleberry Hound. See you use a food dehrator any tips on how to use it looks like the one I have nomad is looking good so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Haney Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 I have a Nesco brand I purchased from amazon. It has a adjustable thermostat. I also purchased a couple of extra trays so I could leave the paint bodies on the paint stand and be able to fit them inside the hydrator. I use at the 105’ setting. I usually leave in overnight and everything is ready when I wake up. You have to cut the center out of the trays to obtain depth. I left one tray with a partial bottom that serves as a shelf for smaller parts while allowing me to place a body or bodies onto the bottom tray. Everything is working good. I recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichCostello Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 I tint windows with Tamiya smoke spray can shot from the inside, very light coats, til you get the darkness you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Haney Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 6 hours ago, misterNNL said: I use a product called Micro Crystal Clear for attaching a lot of parts including Windows. I apply it with a very small brush when gluing small parts. It dries clear and seems to remain slightly flexible rather than brittle. It avoids the fogging effect sometimes caused by super glue so is perfect for those windows,clear lenses and really small stuff like mirrors,etc. I will have to try. I’m try to attach the window tint to the clear part without it showing? Do u think the micro crystal clear will work for that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Haney Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 9 minutes ago, RichCostello said: I tint windows with Tamiya smoke spray can shot from the inside, very light coats, til you get the darkness you want. I saw that in the hobby shop and thought about trying to shoot the smoke through my airbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichCostello Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 2 minutes ago, Gerald Haney said: I saw that in the hobby shop and thought about trying to shoot the smoke through my airbrush. It works amazing right out of the can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Haney Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 8 hours ago, RichCostello said: It works amazing right out of the can. How do u prep the clear plastic ? Any sanding or just make sure it’s clean and spray it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red318 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 Following with interest, this is turning out a really good save. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 15 hours ago, Gerald Haney said: I will have to try. I’m try to attach the window tint to the clear part without it showing? Do u think the micro crystal clear will work for that? I apply it sparingly around the edges and sometimes hold critical points in place with painters tape. I wait for it to dry overnight before carefully removing it. I just used it this past week with .005" clear window material that had been painted flat black on the inside without any problems. Incidentally the product name is spelled with "K' s",Micro Krystal Klear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichCostello Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 8 hours ago, Gerald Haney said: How do u prep the clear plastic ? Any sanding or just make sure it’s clean and spray it? No sanding, just clean and shoot light coats. The more coats, the darker the tint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Haney Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 thank you both I will try both methods. I will have to get me some micro krystal klear. Any advice on printing out small decals for the air cleaner, battery, radiator stickers things like that. I have even seen small magazine covers laying in front seat of models. What are the methods for accomplishing this. I have done some google searches and found images but upon reducing the scale alot of the clarity disappears. Anyone have any recommendations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Haney Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 (edited) Small update. BMF is all done. Also, hood ornament is pinned on. Grille, headlights, marker lights, tail lights all done. The stance is almost complete. Front has been lowered slightly. The tail lights could’ve been better but considering it’s a rebuild and not new parts it’s about as hood as I’m going to do them. The engine I was thinking of using isn’t going to work with the good on so it’s going to have to be used for another build. Edited November 10, 2018 by Gerald Haney Misspelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragcarz Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 Very cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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