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2018 Ford GT Daytona Winner


Peter Lombardo

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As if I don't have enough on my workbench, I wanted to get paint down on the 2018 Ford Gt that won Daytona that year.  I have always liked the Red, White and Blue paint scheme on the 2016 GT's but I wasn't crazy about the colors being "solid".... I much prefer metallic versions of those colors.  So when I saw the 2018 paint on the car, I realized that this would now "work" for me.  Indycals has the decal set for this car, so building it would be a snap.  I especially like that the metallic colors on this car are "flat", which seems to be the new normal for race cars.  I know the matching colors for this car are available from Zero, but I have a problem getting those paints, so Tamiya will have to do.  for the red, I put a base coat of Dull Red down, once dry, topped it with Tamiya Pure Metallic Red.  topped that once dry with Tamiya flat clear.  The white is, just Tamiya Pure White, once dry I taped off the white parts and applied the Blue which is Tamiya Mica Blue.  Once that set up, it was also topped with Tamiya flat clear, and then the masking was removed..   I am setting this aside to completely dry  and cure over the next few months while the rest of my workbench builds get finished. lyMLhYvtatVYrvHh5gXYwEJf6NgIV2ILWOUz1sZ2This is a photo of the sister car where you can see the flat finish.FcPKwOXBrs5dzhymwBdUiTJklMBzeSc4BDm1JaJOu_cQ6QuT40nooiRr9SzKoQjpgQTB6V3d022JL0B1ROvcwR3olor1d7c4W25X2WPawVkwaof5ECFYqkFBxSub9GPlZN9JLA_s1FZ2uzyHyH5zTLmfY9YEYfQl

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Looking forward to seeing this build as well seeing as I have a few planned myself.  The colors look great but one advisory I would say is the finish really isnt flat but does have some gloss to it.  Shot this at night at Daytona 2018 and you can see the sheen under the lights.  I dont know if you're planning to add extra detail but I have shots with the body work removed.

 

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Edited by djflyer
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39 minutes ago, djflyer said:

Looking forward to seeing this build as well seeing as I have a few planned myself.  The colors look great but one advisory I would say is the finish really isnt flat but does have some gloss to it.  Shot this at night at Daytona 2018 and you can see the sheen under the lights.  I dont know if you're planning to add extra detail but I have shots with the body work removed.

 

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Yeah, that would be great.  You really can't see any of the under-skin details, even in the interior, so the extra detail is always fun to represent, but in this case it will be futile   Plus, I am certain that many other modelers would love to see the shots also.  so, I would like to see any shots you can post...... don't go crazy, but a few would be nice.  The pictures I have referenced on-line all appear to show a flat finish, so seeing your beautiful shot clearly changes my thought on the final top coat.  I have a can of semi gloss clear that might be perfect in representing the the look of the car.  And that will make the decal application easier since I was concerned that the space between the letters would be too glossy because of the decal carrier finish being glossy.  This will correct that situation.  Thanks, for the picture.  

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Some of the shots I took at the Roar in 2018 do look more of a matte finish, but it certainly looks like they shined it up a bit for the race.  I picked a few of the chassis shots for anyone that's interested.

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Edited by djflyer
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David, thanks for the very detailed pictures   John, The main thing I try and concentrate on with the masking is 1.   I only use Tamiya tape (usually 1.5mm) for the edge, and then use Pactra tape for the next piece of about 6mm and then use regular masking tape for the big areas. 2. To be sure you get the right amount of "stick", discard any tape, except for plain old masking tape, over 1 year old as it most likely has lost its "sticking power" and 3., be sure the surface you are taping over is as smooth as possible.  Irregularities in the surface may cause gaps in the tape and that leads to over spray.  I have been told this, but never have done this.... so it may work fine, and then again, maybe not......Some guys, after the taping is done will lay down a layer of the base color that they are taping over just in case there are leaks in the taping job.  The logic is that if there is a gap, the base color will seep in and seal the gap, then when that is dry, the next top coat is laid down.   Sounds too "Iffy" to me.  I don't know if it works, maybe some of you guys have done this and if so, how did it work out for you? 

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