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Dumb question about Stynylrez primer


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I've seen a lot of YouTube reviews about this stuff and almost everyone seems to really like how it performs.  The issue I have is it's an acrylic primer and most/all of them were using acrylic paints over it.  I use enamels almost exclusively, and my pedantic brain wonders if an enamel will adhere to it.   

The reason I'm so interested in this stuff is because they offer it in +/- 10 shades, including one called "metal".  If I could get this stuff to work with my enamels, that "metal" base would be great for some of the more translucent paints I've got and would like to use.  

So, what's the verdict?    

Edited by Monty
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"Padentic" ?Gonna have to bread out the "dictionary"😂. Anyway  I use it but have never tried it with anything other than craft paint.  Do I like it????  Let me say, jury is still out on that one.  It has a kind of rubbery feel to it when dry.  It's tough tho and stands up well to wet sanding.

"Dave G" on this forum is a of bit of an authority on this one.

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34 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

"Padentic" ?Gonna have to bread out the "dictionary"😂. Anyway  I use it but have never tried it with anything other than craft paint.  Do I like it????  Let me say, jury is still out on that one.  It has a kind of rubbery feel to it when dry.  It's tough tho and stands up well to wet sanding.

"Dave G" on this forum is a of bit of an authority on this one.

You quoted my spelling of pedantic incorrectly, wrote "bread" instead of break, and used quote marks unnecessarily on the word dictionary.  😁

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13 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

OOPS!!!!!!!!!       I didn't know this was a grammer critique forum too.

Ummm, it's grammar.  😁

Just kidding.  Seriously, thanks for the response to the question.  Some time ago I saw a Cutlass you'd built and painted with Createx (killer color BTW).  I've heard that stuff takes a bit of a learning curve to get great results, so you're leagues ahead of me as far as getting fantastic finishes from craft paints and acrylics.  

Edited by Monty
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53 minutes ago, John Pol said:

I used enamel and laquer over it with no problem

Thanks, John.  Apparently Badger's got a fantastic product if it works with such a variety of paints.  The array of shades they offer it in should prove helpful to a lot of us.  

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Stynylrez takes enamels to it very well. Not sure where TAM gets rubbery from but then I cut my Stynylrez with a little lacquer thinner and often heat set it in my dehydrator. To me it can be dry scuffed in less than two hours if it needs any scuffing at all. And I've never gotten rubbery even when shot straight from the bottle.

What I will say though is as it sits on a shelf for extended periods it will separate ( many paint do). And it's a separation that no amount of shaking will put 100% back together again, even if it looks good in the bottle. I use a Badger power mixer and in less than two minutes all is well.

I've shot lacquer over it as well. If you put down the first coat too wet with hot lacquer you can ( not always)  get a little sand scratch swelling, that needs scuffed out then continue as usual. I'm not a hot lacquer fan anyway and since the topic is enamel you have no worries of that happening even if you thin enamel with lacquer thinner, as I often have. Also hobby lacquers and Tamiya acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner go down over Stynlrez beautifully.    Hope any of this helps and my grammar passes inspection lol.

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All's good Mon

12 hours ago, Monty said:

Ummm, it's grammar.  😁

Just kidding.  Seriously, thanks for the response to the question.  Some time ago I saw a Cutlass you'd built and painted with Createx (killer color BTW).  I've heard that stuff takes a bit of a learning curve to get great results, so you're leagues ahead of me as far as getting fantastic finishes from craft paints and acrylics.  

It's all good Monty, sometimes my attempts at humor don't come out so well🙄  Thanks for the compliment about the Cutlass. It was my first and likely my only use of Createx.  

I see Dave G got back to you about the Stynylrez.  I say give it a try. As far as what I said about the "rubbery" feel, it's no big deal, try it and see what you think. Dave said he uses laquer thinner and  I have not done that yet but use his "proprietory thinner blend" he has mentioned in the forum.  I have to give the laquer thinner a try next time, maybe it won't feel like it does (at least to me).

(Proof read before sending😉😉😎)   Oops, there I go again.

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1 minute ago, TransAmMike said:

All's good Mon

It's all good Monty, sometimes my attempts at humor don't come out so well🙄  Thanks for the compliment about the Cutlass. It was my first and likely my only use of Createx.  

I see Dave G got back to you about the Stynylrez.  I say give it a try. As far as what I said about the "rubbery" feel, it's no big deal, try it and see what you think. Dave said he uses laquer thinner and  I have not done that yet but use his "proprietory thinner blend" he has mentioned in the forum.  I have to give the laquer thinner a try next time, maybe it won't feel like it does (at least to me).

(Proof read before sending😉😉😎)   Oops, there I go again.

And now after my brain woke up, I actually on the last use of the primer, used it unthinned and thats with a .3mm tip. Flowed just fine.

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14 minutes ago, El Roberto said:

I use it under lacquer and enamels with no problems.  

My only issue is that it's kind of a b**** to clean out of the air brush when finished spraying.  

I will second that.  Break it down and clean after use.  I think has rsin in it.

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I initially flush Stynylrez out of the airbrush with warm water. Then switch to 91 IPA and flush and back flush several times till I see no more residue, then flush with cool water. It's tough stuff though. Back flushing is key at least for me. I don't tear the brush down very often ( I prime with the Paasche H and #3 tip) but when I do I generally don't find much of anything in that rather large needle or tip,where I will if I'm sloppy about my back flushing. If you're using internal mix double action that may be different. I've never used one for this primer that I can recall.

 

Edited by Dave G.
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I've completely switched to Stynylrez for Zero 2K finishes. I think it's too rough for Tamiya rattle-cans, which I use Tamiya Fine Surface for, but for Zero, where the base coat is meant to be matt anyway, it's fine. It's a great barrier between coloured plastic and a 2K system top coat, and the colour choice is wide. I just flush with lots of water, back flush and use a final "universal" (IPA, water and a bit of detergent) airbrush cleaner for clean up. The good thing is that if at any point you think your airbrush isn't clean enough, an ultrasonic cleaning bath and some "floor wax" or general household cleaner ("LAs Totally Awesome Cleaner") will take Stynylrez off completely...

best,

M.

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1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

I knew there would be some good suggestions about this topic.👌

Does this board rock or what?  It's such a fantastic resource, especially when you have so many great builders willing to share helpful information. 

Thanks to all for your input.  I'm liking what I'm hearing about how compatible this primer is with various paints, but am also making a mental note of the extra care needed in cleaning the airbrush after its use.   

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On 5/7/2021 at 6:18 AM, Dave G. said:

Stynylrez takes enamels to it very well. Not sure where TAM gets rubbery from but then I cut my Stynylrez with a little lacquer thinner and often heat set it in my dehydrator. To me it can be dry scuffed in less than two hours if it needs any scuffing at all. And I've never gotten rubbery even when shot straight from the bottle.

 

What lacquer thinner do you use? I tried Stynlrez for the first time recently and it did not go well. I tried straight out of the bottle. It didn't flow and gummed everything up. I tried Kleen Strip lacquer thinner and ended up with a giant booger ball in my mixing cup. Windshield washer fluid seemed to do the best but everything still got gummy. And like Mike, the stuff that did make it to plastic had a rubbery feel. I was using a .5 mm needle in a Master Airbrush G233. 

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3 hours ago, stinkybritches said:

What lacquer thinner do you use? I tried Stynlrez for the first time recently and it did not go well. I tried straight out of the bottle. It didn't flow and gummed everything up. I tried Kleen Strip lacquer thinner and ended up with a giant booger ball in my mixing cup. Windshield washer fluid seemed to do the best but everything still got gummy. And like Mike, the stuff that did make it to plastic had a rubbery feel. I was using a .5 mm needle in a Master Airbrush G233. 

Did you really mix the Stynlyrez well ? I use Kleen Strip. However I've gotten reports of where lacquer thinner in some parts of the country in order to meet standards there is mostly acetone. I don't believe mine is, it doesn't smell like acetone. I just shot white Stynylrez Sunday thinned nearly 50/50 with Kleen Strip, came out fine.

Just so you know, Badgers own recommendation is to thin it slightly with water. They don't suggest thinning at all but if you are compelled to then use water they say. I've done that too,it works but was more grainy when dry than with LT.. As to an alcohol based product like washer fluid I've shot stynylrez with IPA and with DNA and IPA worked better. All washer fluid is is methanol and water mixed together with a little dye in it. Basically a Methanol type alcohol and water.

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I used a Badger paint mixer and mixed it in the bottle before trying to use it. Maybe it's really old or I didn't thin it enough. Maybe it's the crappy airbrush. I have a Passche H and a Procon Boy PS 290, but I didn't want to use either of those until I knew how to use the Stynlrez.

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1 hour ago, stinkybritches said:

I used a Badger paint mixer and mixed it in the bottle before trying to use it. Maybe it's really old or I didn't thin it enough. Maybe it's the crappy airbrush. I have a Passche H and a Procon Boy PS 290, but I didn't want to use either of those until I knew how to use the Stynlrez.

I use a Paasche H, #3 tip and generally a metal side cup to spray my Stynylrez. 23-25 psi. That #3 is a .7 fwiw. I've shot it both thinned and unthinned depending on my goal. But I've shot the stuff with a .5 many times in my Badger 200, even now and then for some fine work through a .25. Just sayin. The only time I've ever had anything like glop, it was off the rim of the Stynylrez bottle and worst part is I thought I saw it go into the mixing bottle from the pipette but dumb me continued on anyway, old dried paint. And don't let it freeze, it can't handle getting frozen. One last thing, don't return thinned paint back to the bottle. I've had that backfire later on as the bottle gets older and lower in content..

I've never shot the stuff through a DA brush though. I usually use the H, it's my go to for that primer. And hey if your thinner turns the primer to glop in the mixing cup don't spray it ! Try Badgers suggestion. But if it looks like glop coming out of your bottle then maybe it did go bad.

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