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Revell '57 Ford Custom 2'n1


MachinistMark
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So Roger, you've got a replacement coming whichever way, right?

You might take this opportunity to play around with just-off-boiling water, see if that helps you any with the warped one.

You just take a saucepan or pot big enough to accept the frame and fill it with enough water to immerse the part. Bring that water to a rolling boil, then take it off the heat. Grab some tongs and drop in the part before the water cools, say maybe for three seconds at the start. You want to start off with short times and then work your way up as needed, so you don't immediately distort the part.

If you get it to a point where you get the faintest whiff of hot plastic fume, it'll probably be ready to hold the shape you twist it into. I'd start by undoing the diamond first, then get it all on one plane.

Of course, all the usual disclaimers about being careful not to burn yourself, blablabla. I've had good success straightening stuff out, eliminating body warps, and closing floorpan-to-rocker panel gaps this way.

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Would it straighten out enough once it's attached to the floorpan? I haven't seen any pictures of the kit's contents other than the test shot, but it appears the floorpan piece might be able to help hold the frame in the correct, untwisted position.

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Would it straighten out enough once it's attached to the floorpan? I haven't seen any pictures of the kit's contents other than the test shot, but it appears the floorpan piece might be able to help hold the frame in the correct, untwisted position.

Probably with crazy glue.

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So Roger, you've got a replacement coming whichever way, right?

You might take this opportunity to play around with just-off-boiling water, see if that helps you any with the warped one.

You just take a saucepan or pot big enough to accept the frame and fill it with enough water to immerse the part. Bring that water to a rolling boil, then take it off the heat. Grab some tongs and drop in the part before the water cools, say maybe for three seconds at the start. You want to start off with short times and then work your way up as needed, so you don't immediately distort the part.

If you get it to a point where you get the faintest whiff of hot plastic fume, it'll probably be ready to hold the shape you twist it into. I'd start by undoing the diamond first, then get it all on one plane.

Of course, all the usual disclaimers about being careful not to burn yourself, blablabla. I've had good success straightening stuff out, eliminating body warps, and closing floorpan-to-rocker panel gaps this way.

I'm going to give this a shot, I have nothing to loose. I've just not been very successful in my prio attempts. I;ll keep you posted.

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Did anyone mention that the carbs are molded to the intakes on both versions? I think this is a good kit, but come on it's a bit of a let down in that respect.Gonna raid the amt version for some more adequate parts.( intake, super charger setup). just my thoughts guys.

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They're those weird OEM Holley "teapot" carbs. The top part is usually a different color (silver) than the bottom (bronze/gold) so I guess it made sense to mold them in halves. Don't know that it made much sense to mold one half onto the intake, though. But anyone who would pass on this kit because part of the carb is molded onto the intake is missing out one of the nicest kits ever to come out of the Revell/Monogram stable.

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Got this for Christmas and I'm pleasantly surprised. There seems to be a few more variants on this kit. The chrome tree has the Paxton blower for the F code 312. I'm hoping for a Ranchero and (I may turn blue holding my breath) a '58 Edsel wagon. You can use a lot of the custom bits from AMT's '57, and that beatiful stock grille from Revell's offering will spruce up the Fairlane. A few oddities, however- the carbs are molded to the intake and though there is a heater under the hood, but no controls on the dash. The interior us a reall plain jane office, with good engraving and decals for the door and seat upholstery and the speedometer.. Mine's becoming a mild custom- I should have some in progress pics up soon.

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Which 58 Edsel Wagon??

Round Up (2dr), Villager or Bermuda??

On Villager & Bermuda, 6 Passenger or 9??

I would any of love those too (Look at my Name)!!!!!

I have a '58 Edsel wagon from the Danbury MInt and it is a sweet lookin' piece in my collection. As far as seeing a kit of one, it would be great but I don't expect to see one anytime in the near future.

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Wow this kit is great, Big Mopar fan; and Mopar had some of the greatest cars in the mid to late 50's on up. 57 Fords were very cool and I'm sure thats why they out sold Chevy that year. My cousins friend had a 57 Fairlane 500 2 dr hardtop from early 60's as far as I can remember. In the early 70's I took my car to my cousins body shop and meet the guy with the 57 Ford who still had it. I asked him what it was worth and he told me he couldn't sell for what he had into it( now remember this was the early 70's) I know it had a 312 Thunderbird engine because he told me, I never looked. It had dual rear antenna's and a pair of what was called cruiser skirts on the back of the car. Loved them cruiser skirts on the cars from the early 60's. His 57 Ford was two tone yellow and black, raised in the front, lowered in the back with dual exhaust hanging out from the rear bumper at least a foot. Thats how I remember the cars from the early 60's. Oh ya he had a set Dodge Lancer full disk spinner hub caps on the car too. I too will be waiting for this model also. I just got the 68 Charger R/T for chrismas and going to be working on that soon. The other Ford I liked of the time was 56 Ford.

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Groked this kit last night at a bull session. Notice but really had to look but there is a mold line about 1/32 " from the lip on either front fender and down by the headlights.

Any encounter problems getting it off? Would seem like a very delicated job to do. Fine kit and one of Revell's best to date..All kits have some flaws but not enough for the builders not to buy them...Keep em coming Revell....

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for those that are questioning the "air box" for the supercharger option, there are two different set-ups for a force induction (actually three) one is a "blow through" that is the type in the photos, it requires a carb that is specially modified to seal up at all of the potential places the extra pressure could "leak" out, (you have to remember, carbs are designed to operate with a vacum signal, not a pressure), the second is for the type of box that comes in the kit, & it is a totally enclosed pressure unit so the blower can't force air out of the carb. The third is the type that Pontiac used on the Trans Am's & it is a "plate/adapter" that sits under the carb with the forced air coming into that via a intake tube from the forced air source, (in this case, usually a turbo charger).

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