Pete J. Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I really appreciate the precision of your work Mark. It takes more skill than most model builders realize to get all these parts to fit correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 Thanks Pete and Art. No one to blame if it don't fit... You can see it in person tomorrow evening... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skypower Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Super cool build I love those cars. My stepdad has one we sure have fun with it at track days and autocross stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas SCR Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Very nice work Mark, Here is my first try at making A arms in brass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Mark... this is some awesome building going on here. Everything is looking killer!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) Thanks Chris. The front sway bar and the stabilizer links (including the bushings) are in the bag. Too many tiny parts I didn’t want to risk losing. Mostly brass with some machined aluminum for the nuts & bolts & washers and soft vinyl for the rubber bushings. I also added the tabs for the stabilizer links to the lower control arms. Edited December 13, 2013 by Scale-Master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 I added the seat mounting rails to the frame. And I made the brackets for the seats. This is the left, hence the engraved “L”… The seats snap onto the rails and allow the seats slide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Fantastic work to be sure. Compared to this my builds look like I built them with my feet ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas SCR Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 I really want to thank you for pushing me into doing more brass work Mark, I just started doing some more on the lathe and mill and I really like it compare to aluminum and easyer to clean up. Oh ya it looks 100 times nicer when done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 15, 2013 Author Share Posted December 15, 2013 The interior side panels are made from a perforated aluminum. They are just loosely set in the frame here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Did you photoetch that perforated aluminum yourself or is it a store-bought item? If aftermarket, I can see a lot of uses for that stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 15, 2013 Author Share Posted December 15, 2013 Would you believe me if I said I machined it...? I think it is sold by The Campbell Line for model railroading. It came loose in a lot I bought of odds and ends of modeling supplies, but it was with some other Campbell materials. Interesting stuff to work with, very soft. Easy to file, easier to bend, not necessarily where you want it to bend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Since you can't solder it in place, are you going to machine some sheet metal screws? ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 15, 2013 Author Share Posted December 15, 2013 Since you can't solder it in place, are you going to machine some sheet metal screws? ;) They actually fit without any need for mechanical fixturing or adhesive when the seats and body panels are installed. Same for this piece... Beginning of upper under hood framework. Snaps in since it will mounted after the engine is built and installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Really a treat watching this come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 That is some really nice engineering Mark. Looks like a nice tight fit. Sorry I missed it Friday. Got my final exam tomorrow and it promises to be a real bear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 Thanks Pete, I need to make sure it can be unbuilt, painted and rebuilt, so the extra time and effort will hopefully pay off in the final assembly. The foot wells are built. I was able to attach the passenger side to the transmission tunnel and still be able to snap it in and out of the frame easily. The driver’s side was a bit more work due to the provisions for the master cylinders and room for the pedals. It “loads” from the top and locks into part of the framework on the bottom of the car. This upper panel also locks in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 Some of the principle elements of the pedals assembly and the drivers side foot well. I still need to make the faces of the pedals, but I have the geometry set up. The guide for the steering shaft is installed in the foot box too. I started making the frame support work for the steering shaft. The cowl fit and attachment points have been finalized and I started roughing out the dashboard. All of these parts are friction fit/snap together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Ah, now I understand......a Snap kit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 These are the U-joints for the steering shaft. Here is a dry fitting of them with the links of the shaft assembly. I still need to make pins for the cross-shafts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Looks to me that if you're any bigger than a jockey you could never fit into this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMX Addicts Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Beautiful work!!!... It has been a few months since I read this thread and is truly a work of art. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 Looks to me that if you're any bigger than a jockey you could never fit into this car.Even people over six feet tall can fit just fine. Don't forget the drivers side has more leg room than the passenger side. Driveshaft is brass with aluminum bearing caps for the cross-shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 I added the weights and shot a coat of black on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 The shifter boot was made by machining a mold from aluminum and casting it with the same pliable resin I used for the tires and other boots. The bezel was also machined from aluminum. It fits flush in the transmission tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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