customline

Thanks, Earl....I don't think I can paint a 1:25 for $29.95 today ?. Have you ever seen one of those paint jobs? ?. Thanks for the info and pix!

Thank you Earl Scheib ( $39.95 paint job?). I couldn't find anything on it. Why the odd shape, though? Rear speakers were unusual back then.

Does anyone know what this is supposed to be? I can't find a picture of it on the web and it doesn't look like anything I recognize, so if you know or have a picture of it on a 1:1, I'm sure I'm not the only one who appreciate it. It could be a speaker but the shape is kinda odd. The rear defogger is totally different. Should it be chrome? I dunno. Help!

Congrats, Bob, you did the right thing!?. Look it over really well because some parting lines are very elusive. Look closely around the headlights and the c-pillar / top of fin/ trunk opening. Look for very small molding glitches. If you have opened it and looked it over, I (we?) would be interested in any comments on what you find inside the box and you are welcome to do so "here".

I totally agree. The Revell is is good but the street rod version comes with only a coil-over rear suspension (mine did, anyway). The stock version has, well ?, stock suspension. AMT evidently was not concerned with accuracy when they tooled the '40,'36, '32, '34, etc. Those models were for a younger builder. It was important for cars to roll then.

Yay! Another '40! ? . Nice door work, Jim. The fun has begun!

Quick fix ?

I hope you got outside for a little 70 degree air, Steve.

This is a heads-up for anyone interested. If you are trying to build a "correct" model it is wise to scrutinize every detail before any paint, is applied. It's too late for me, but here is one thing I have just discovered and it's definitely on me for missing this. The interior door panels are not correct and are easily fixed but it needs to be done before you paint ?. You will notice the front of the door is not scribed. Easily fixed. The bottom of the door that is "carpeted" is not correct and the kick panel is missing the chrome strip .....And the 1:1 kick panels are angled in. i could have done a better, more thorough fix had I not rushed ahead and painted. I'm just going to do a quick fix but I don't feel good about it. ?

I think maybe there are plenty of builders that appreciate any information, it certainly can't hurt.

Nothing fancy was done. Just flying by the seat of my pants. Anyone with very little patience can do this type of "werk". ?

Ignore this post. I could not fix nor delete it, it is beyond my ability ?

The engine looks great, Joe. The alternator looks dead-on real. Do you have a particular name/brand/company in mind for the sides?

I appreciate the long-winded response, Dave, it's good information for those of us in need of it ?. Seriously, we are trying to help each other on this medium and you should not hesitate to empty your bucket when duty calls ☺️. I don't. No one is forced to read it. I did ?its a darn good review, Dave. All kits have some issues, even the really good kits. I'm building a Moebius kit presently and I am quite happy with it. After a number of mock-ups it seems I may not need to glue the body on this ('56 300B) either. It's a very precise fit. I totally get it about the front and rear lower panels waiting until the bottom is in place. I don't like it but it is what it is. I'm working on one like that now ('69 Boss 302). You mention the tires rubbing - this is sorta common across the brands. I check now, and get ahead of it and make the "adjustments " to either the wheels or the axles. And the decals? Yeah, no more than 10 seconds in water. I love 5 spoke Americans with the dark gray spokes and the chrome rims flatted out. Sounds like a great kit. Thanks David. ?

So am I, Andy, so am I ?. Thanks for your interest!

Happy to see a flatty taking up residence between the fenders! Three 97s too! The thing with the flathead,though, is the distributor. This is usually trouble for me depending on the year of the car it came from.

How about a barn find/ survivor?

Yeah, I got a few of those, Bill. They are all dream projects until they become nightmares. I have several boxes full of that kind. Seriously, though, I have loved the 39/'40 styling forever and I suppose I'll build another if I can get ahold of another kit (for a decent price. Of course.) But the elusive Tudor kit ....that's the one I need ?.

Ditto on all the above, David. How does this kit compare with the Round 2 kits of these MoPars?

Had some good weather on Friday so I got a little paint done...still some tiny gaffs on the body but it's good for a mock-up.

I left that one with the Dade County Sherriff's Dept. In November of '68. ? you'll have to talk to them.

Yup. Gotta shake 'em good to keep the settled out pigment from clogging the dip-tube. I heat my cans in fully hot water or with a hair dryer but my reason for heating is to boost the pressure for better atomization. I prefer the convenience of the spray can because I hate cleaning my airbrush (I'm old and lazy). I did, however, airbrush two assembled chassis and a floor pan Friday with a half bottle of Model Master Semigloss Black and it looks a thousand times better than a Krylon job, which is what I usually do ?. It's hard to tell in a photo but the chassis and floor pan look like unpainted black plastic. I mixed it pretty thin using cheap lacquer thinner (the Yost method) and before I was done the air cap was clogged with dried paint. The way that bottom looks, I'm not even sanding my tire treads. It's going "Showroom". ?

Those old Ramblers were known for front ends falling apart. Of course, by the time I had them, they had one wheel in the junkyard ?. I had a '60 2 door, a '61 wagon, and a '62 convertible which my Dad handed down to me. They were cheap to buy, cheap to run and when they broke you just junked 'em. ?.

Look what's sitting on the lot of a muffler shop a couple of miles up the road from me

What about the flathead from the '41 plymouth kit?