customline

Yeah, the drip rails....I picked up some .030" triangle rod for a side trim mod on a future project that may work for this but will ,no doubt, be testing my resolve. The key to a great custom (kustom) is that it looks like the factory built it; it would have drip rails. In the case of the Ford coupe, the drip rail defines and accentuates the fluid curves of the whole design. With the drip rails shaved off, the coupe takes on a lead-sled look and and my mild chop won't work well in that genre. This is a more contemporary look. My challenge is remaining consistent throughout the overall look. The right wheel/tire combo, bumpers, paint....I still don't have a firm plan yet. I'm entertaining all ideas and comments. The photo below was found in the ether and appears to be a photo-shopped study that the builder of this 1:1 was using to plan his build. I like it a lot. It totally works.

Yeah, I agree. I just got some Plastruct triangle rod for another job but it may work on this one. My worry is trying to glue it to the Bondo and CA surfaces on the C pillar. On styrene I will bond it with "welder" but that may not work on polyester. I need to test that. It'll be a tedious operation. Thinking about replacing the running boards with side exhaust from '68 'Vette. Hmmmm.......

Thank you, Greg. I enjoyed doing it. The big question now is " Do I keep the drip rail ?" Gotta do more research (that's what I call looking at pictures of hot rods)

The nice thing about the '40 is the smooth radius of the window moldings. Makes it easier to get a clean chop. This kit came in a bag, bought off Ebay. It's the Street Rod version. No telling where it's going yet. The flathead will not be under the hood. ?. I have other plans for that.

Looks awfully messy, doesn't it? I love Bondo. This is as far as I got today. Now I need to decide to add back the drip rail or not. It changes the whole look. For this mild chop, I am leaning towards the drip rail. I dunno. Lots of work still ahead.

The A pillars were sectioned and the roof returned to its proper, lower, place ?. It's Bondo time!

Because the C pillars don't align well after removing the section, I added some .020 sheet scrap to the bottoms so the top had a landing and gluing surface. Some .015 strips were added inside the B pillars as well.

This is how I started.

I want to apologize right up front. I found this photo while searching for ideas for my Revell '40 coupe. If it's yours, I'm sorry but I need it to illustrate something. I knew I wanted to chop it a bit but there are many different looks for this car and well, you know.....anyway, I thought it might be interesting to somebody ( you can remain anonymous ? , Michael ) to see the following photos of the steps I took to get a fair chop. It's not finished, it's rough.... but I wanted to get it out there. Maybe I'll finish this one. We'll see. The first picture is one way to do this chop. Not the way I would. I'm not saying my way is right but it worked for me (this time) and, because I am learning as I go, this is in no way a tutorial.

Oh....the seat looked like a very dark green. ? I must have had a senior moment. Black works!?

That was beautiful, Bill. ?

GENIUS!.....well, maybe not genius but I have a feeling your idea will become standard practice. I have two or three of those bottles and now I finally have a purpose for them ?. I can borrow Wifey's double sided tape, I think. Seriously, Greg, it's a great idea and I was considering building something with fenders (let's keep that quiet). I will definitely remember this tip when (if) I get there.

Great choice on the body color and the interior color goes perfectly with it. I'm glad you didn't throw it back in the box, James. What's the interior paint?

I remember when nobody wanted these fin-mobiles except for a Demolition Derby entry. They are beautiful, aren't? ?

I was just looking through my "research" pix and this one jumped out at me. I really must try this finish. Very inspirational.

Yeah, that thing with the steering box? That sort of thing wouldn't bother me in the past but it does now. If it will show and the kit didn't provide it, I'll try to scratch-build it. Sometimes, depending on the front axle and how it is located, the engine and whatever else gets in the way, the easiest work-around for me is the outboard steering set-up as shown below on this 1:1 and on one of my not-so-illustrious builds. BTW, that deuce coupe below is the "Beach Boys" kit. One of the worst Revell kits ever, IMHO.

I bought the AMT '69 Torino Cobra Jet Fastback kit with eager anticipation. Couldn't wait to open it. What I found inside was an old screw-bottom/promo with chrome headlight lenses ?. I thought about how many extra clear lenses and Model A headlight nacelles I have in my parts stash. No prob-lay-mo! I will drill out the stupid chrome, add suitable headlight buckets to the backside and find some clear lenses to fit. RIGHT? ?. Then I'll cut out the radiator support with the screw bosses molded to it and fab up a new radiator support and find a suitable radiator in my stash. I paid 22 bucks for this kit and thought I was getting a great bargain ?.....I dunno...maybe just try to overlay some lenses and use canopy glue to hold 'em. Turning a lemon into a slightly improved lemon. Don't mind me, I'm just venting.

Micro-Mark has a pretty good selection of tools. You will find this one pictured below on their website (I can't paste the link with my browser) I have used it mostly on brass rod and wire, mainly for making hinges. It works quite well for that. Gives you a nice sharp bend with little distortion.

There's nothing I can say that has not been said except.....I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT!!!

Would I be out of line to tell y'all that I remember throwing up in the back seat of my grandfather's '47 ? (I was only 4). Anyway......Great looking beater! Beautiful photos too! A super nice kit; Can't wait to build mine!

James, I'm wondering if you might be having the same trouble I often have when lowering/channelling; during the "mock-up phase" I have trouble seeing what it is that is causing my problem. Why won't this body fit lower on the frame? Channeling creates lots of problems like that. Something always interferes and often I need to re-engineer to clear the interference. Sometimes it's the bell housing/transmission. You may need to create a floorboard/firewall/transmission tunnel relationship to accommodate the engine placement. Or re-locate the engine a bit in the vertical or front/rear placement, whichever is easier. you can only make the tunnel so big before there is no foot room. You will also need to use an outside drag link for steering; that hemi leaves no room for a steering box inside the frame rail. After stumbling my way through these and other issues, I am finding ways to head them off by planning ahead and being prepared to scratch-build a lot. But that's where the fun is! Oh, and sometimes I cheat. Sometimes there's a shortcut, depending on the intent of the build, the statement being made. Below is an example ? (a highboy need not have a transmission hump) and its consistent with some current AMT kits out there ?

It might look like one of these. The side trim conversion is the easy part. It's the stupid bumper "wings" where the work is. The result is a cleaner look (in my humble opinion) more suitable for a mild custom or a resto-mod like the ones pictured below. By the way, sorry for the untimely reply.

I like what you did with the A pillar. Makes for a smoother transition. Breaking them didn't hurt you at all. I wish I'd thought of it! Nice work, Greg. It'll be a "good one" (there's "good ones" and then there's "not so good ones" in my house.) Looks well thought out and and masterfully butchered ?

I have the non-evil version of the movie star in her box, waiting to queue-in. I hope mine turns out as nice as your's did. As much as I love the red/white scheme on the '58 Plymouth, I will likely do something else. Maybe downgrade to a Savoy. Anyway, congrats! Great looking MoPuppy!

So what's the problem, James? I thought this kind of thing was normal. It is for me, anyway ?. I have a Master's in Not Thinking. I don't think I have built a fenderless hot rod without every issue you described and probably a thousand more. If you have other projects in various stages of construction, just work on those and your mind will work the solutions out in the background. Nothing I have thrown back in the box has ever emerged for construction. I end up stealing the parts. A few days to think it over is a good way to go. Who knows, maybe you'll get some new ideas ( and for me, they're hard to come by these days). Solving problems is what kit-bashing is all about ?, ain't it? Front axles are like gold to me. As long as you have CA, some .020 brass wire, and a #74 bit you can fix it (unless you stepped on it, of course. ? )