customline

It's going to take more than that, Brian. Gotta fill the void, too. And then cover the top well. It's easy stuff but it's not a Boss 302 as claimed. I don't mind doing the mods but c'mon, man ?

That's somewhat valid due to the "4" on the box but knowing the plan to squeeze subsequent versions for decades of a 1:1 car that was available in many manifestations, wouldn't it be appropriate to tool up two tubs or the parts to add to a "base" tub? Think about it. I guess the thinking was to put a skill level 4 on the box and let the guys with Dremels worry about authenticity, right? Some stupid kid won't know the difference anyway.

I'm done with buying these roadsters but I still have one kit left to build. If the frame isn't too badly warped, one way to make-do is to eliminate the top rail and replace the provided "glass" with some clear acetate and....VOILA! Chopped! Just touch up the top of the posts with Molotow.

Thank you everyone! I plan on building this kit OOB. Revell should really provide a correct tub for this version, shouldn't they? Removing the roll bar artifacts and covering the top well seems a bit much to build a correct rendition of the Boss 302. Coincidentally, I get e-mails daily from Hemmings and yesterday there was an in- depth article on the Boss 302. Some really good info. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2022/07/08/1969-70-ford-mustang-boss-302-buyers-guide

My experience with "flock" told me to never do it in the house(again). Then I learned that the only way to be rid of the residual fibers was YOU CAN'T! They get all over everything. Tiny, little hair-like creatures clinging to the whole interior tub. An unmitigated horror. Nope, never again. I am in possession of all sorts of embossing powder (well, Wifey has most of it for her card-making endeavors) that I thought I would add to a clear-coat for a little sparkle but never did. Lost my nerve. It's amazing stuff but I still haven't found a legitimate use in car model building. I think it may be useful to add texture to an interior floor but the method needs to be experimented more. I've seen Wifey use it to great success but she has all the stuff to use it properly. I will quiz her on it when she awakens . Maybe she can help us ?. More on this later.

Oh, don't get me started on flock ?. I will NEVER EVER EVER USE FLOCK AGAIN. oh, you said embossing powder. Sorry. Flock is a very sore subject for me ?. When I want carpeting I will use self-adhesive felt. And not often because it's a little too thick and difficult to cut (but still do-able). 10 tries? Yup, you are certifiable insane ?.

I picked up a Revell Boss 302 kit today and, after inspection of the innards, I have a few questions. The first thing I noticed was an extra engine block. I'm guessing remnants of another version, but what? Also there are these odd "posts" with holes on top on either side behind the front seats that appear to accept a roll bar that is among the "extras " and is not called out on the parts list. There's also side scoops not listed. What version do these parts belong to? After studying pics on the web of '69 Boss 302s I noticed every single pic of this model had the quarter glass up in place. Was that glass fixed on the fastback bodies? I thought I would open the glass on my build but if they don't open on the 1:1, well....anyway, I know there's a mustang expert out there that would like to enlighten me on these items. I would appreciate it.

Thank you.....I was just about to....question my own.....oh well, never mind ?

Yup. I keep a check on the local weather for a "no blush" day and today looks good for a clear-coat job on my '66 Riv (which was repainted silver after a bad decision to paint it "Dusty Rose"). A day like today is rare here ( 56% - not ideal, but better than most days down here at sea level. Im very close to the bay and I won't see really good painting weather till October either. I used some "auto primer" that wouldn't dry on a '56 Del Rey that had been customized using bondo. Had to plunge it in the pond. Quite a clean-up on that one. The darn primer WOULD NOT DRY! I couldn't sand it! My '30 coupe went into brake fluid for a week and then the purple pond. A total re-do on that one. I imagine that many of us have stuff like this to deal with. Sometimes it's just trying to get something done when it shouldn't be done. My patience is somewhat limited when waiting for a good time to paint so I force it even though I know what can happen. And I pay the price all too often. What's the definition of insanity?

I feel your pain, Mike. I drop approximately 80% of everything I handle due to hand weakness from arthritis. I keep a small LED flashlight on hand and use it frequently to find stuff on the floor. I keep a long stick with tape wound sticky side out to retrieve items from the floor. Getting old sucks. I recall filing down headlight lenses that wouldn't fit. You can imagine how that went for me. On my hands and knees with my flashlight looking for a clear lense less than a quarter inch in diameter ?. Lately, my frustration is due to paint problems on all three projects currently in "progress", two of which swam in the pond. I haven't touched any of them in over a week and the time off helps to diffuse my frustration. When I go back to it it will be with a fresh attitude, hopefully with a smile on my face. It gives me time to clear my head and think about my next move. My frustration has prevented me from posting "in progress" shots of anything lately; when things are that bad, ? I just can't be bothered with posting. There's nothing like a little commiserating, huh? ? I feel better now. ?

Yup. I'm glad I started this. There's nothing like bringing a great project to a close when you have the paint polished out to perfection and all that's needed is to attach those tiny tail lights and one of them jumps out of the tweezer and flies across the room and.....well, you know ?. How many times have those headlight lenses that you thought you put in straight not been straight? Yup. Been there. ?

The Great Race shoved off from Rocky Point Park in Warwick, Rhode Island today and my son got these photos for me to share with y'all. Enjoy!

Don't paint it, foil the hinge! ?

Yeah, how about the Testor's paint bottle rack? ?

Since you are wanting this kit and since I've had the chance to further investigate it I would like to give a heads-up on a few things that bother me about it. Don't get me wrong, though, it's still a nice kit of a great subject. The '56 is one of my favorite Chebbies. I owned one back in the day but Dad made me get rid of it ( it had no floors. What do you want for $90.00?) ? The stock tire/wheel/white wall insert combo are not up to the quality level of other kits that have these. The fit is not quite right and may need some fiddling. The instructions seem to lack clarity in some areas but this is a level 5 in difficulty and this may be one of the reasons for that. I noticed the back light "glass" is a very precise fit. No room for goofing up at all. Try it to figure out your strategy for installing it before you open the glue tube. This probably goes for the other glass parts as well. Pay attention to the firewall to floor fit and also the firewall to body interface. The instructions show attaching the firewall to the floor. I'd question that. Not an issue, but a nice plus: The scripts are very low relief but the decal sheet includes them. The larger emblems and door handles are provided on the chrome tree and locators are molded on the body and hood (which, by the way, is a very close fit- remember that at paint-prep time.) When mating the floor to the frame I noticed a gap(s) at the driveshaft tunnel mating area that I will definitely fill. There may be more of these issues, bad and good, but it is level 5 and I don't mind working a bit harder ?. There is plenty of kit here for the money. Something to ponder: why lower the suspension and add disc brakes on all four but keep the ol' 265 and 'glide? ?. Okay, budget constraints. Custom paint first, engine swap later....

Wifey had a bunch of gift cards for Michael's she got from friends and co-workers when she retired at the end of April. Today I helped her spend them ?. The variety there wasn't great but I was able to find this one. I had been wanting it for a while so HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME!the price was a standard $29.95 but after discount it was $21.59. Not too bad. The kit tooling looks good with no flash and nice chrome. There's some nice features like glass for the quarter windows, engine upgrades like a chrome alternator and finned rocker covers and a big chrome quad. You get a set of contemporary rims and low profile rubber. There's an optional lower a-frame set with disc brakes that will lower the front. It seems like a pretty nice kit of a great subject. I'm considering building it stock although the gasser prospect is hard to resist. It's a perfect body style for a gasser.?

There is a type of CA that is mainly for Styrofoam and also for those of us who can't tolerate the fumes given off by CA. This is all I use for all clear "glass" and lenses, both the thin and the thick depending on the fit-up. It won't fog but you still must be skillful applying it. I will often use zip kicker while holding the glass in place. Its expensive, not as strong as regular CA, and it has a short shelf life ( it thickens in the bottle after a year or so) but it works and its a viable alternative to the white glues..

Glad it worked out. I had a '67 Impala back in the day. Always loved that body style for the kicked-up rear quarter and the fast roof. Beautifully aggressive styling.

RUST! Yaaaaay ! ! !

This is interesting ?. Gloss next?

If your defect is minor, maybe a little care with some 400 on a small block will do the trick.

The line is subtle, not a sharp crease but it does show up when the light is above or below on a low angle. Maybe you're OK without having to do much of anything ?

If I may, I would suggest the use of sanding blocks, sized for the job. I mentioned using Bondo glazing putty and, if you decide to use this, you would use 220 grit for prepping the styrene and most of the shaping operation, as directed in the Bondo instructions. Adding layers, you want a proper surface for each new layer to grip. After contour is achieved, finish up with 400 or 600. I use the Bondo because it is fast and it does not shrink. It is ready to sand in 10 minutes if properly mixed. My patience is thin these days so it works well for me. I use it for all filler jobs and any irregularities found after priming can be cleaned up with Mr Surfacer. A job like this can be completed in an hour or less, depending on how fussy you are. Use your sense of feel as well as light and shadow to tell you when you have it right. Sight it from many angles. I will use a small flash light shining it across the surface at low angles. Watch the shadows, they tell you everything.

Yes indeed. It's such a thin and fragile part ?. I tried to glue the clear "glass" to my slightly misshapen frame with poor results. The replacement I received from Revell Germany is better but still not right. If I take great pains, I may be successful joining the parts using the fume-free CA glue. Ill try it some day when my head is right ?. The first issue of the kit was fine but this second issue (not a "Special Edition") is notorious for the windshield frame (#50 ?) and I have noticed my latest one, purchased 2 months ago, has minor plating issues. There are instruction errors too (from the original issue and still not corrected), so be careful.

Are you familiar with Bondo professional glazing putty(the 2 part type) ? It's excellent for this sort of thing. I have fixed some pretty terrible things I've done with it