customline

One of these coupes is the Revell kit. The other is a 1:25 Monogram "Rockin' Rods" "Beach Boys Little Deuce Coupe" rendition, an older kit. The Monogram kit is a bit toy-like in that the kit is molded in red. The Revell street rod is a very good kit. This is how I see them. Thanks for looking!

WOOD IS GOOD! You could stop right here, RRP, and call it done! I love it ?

Best Model Car Parts. He's on ebay. He makes photo reduction dash panels on photo paper. You just cut it out and glue it in place. I love 'em.you can also just cut the kit decal out too but not dip it, just glue it in like I did here.

Bud Light is for little gurlee men ☺️

A bit of progress. Engine mostly assembled, ladder bars painted with attached shocks, slicks sanded, a little more bondo work done, flip nose work progressing. I'll explain the nose work...sheet stock added to both sides of fender mating area- the body side is flush; this will more or less make up for the ker. Magnets will be hidden behind the .020 material. On the nose side the .030 sheet is recessed enough to accommodate the magnets that will be set there. The nose will be held closed by the magnets. When the hinge is finally set, the nose will be positioned closed. The hidden magnets will be located and glued according to the positioning of the nose magnets that are glued beforehand. Don't worry, I've done this before ?...

"Favorite" is clear but it doesn't cover the why; my favorite paint jobs for purely selfish reasons are the ones here. ☺️ No polishing! Easy prep! You can't screw it up!

Appreciate the comments, Mike. I learned about Createx a few years ago and bought a set of iridescent colors and have not had the courage to try them. I know, that's irrational. The burgundy paint on the '40 may not be as stated. Its possibly Testors dark red gloss. I experimented with Krylon burgundy gloss over black on an interior for an oxblood leather look. See below.the model A is done over bare plastic and the '53 is over black. Big difference. I knew this to be a method used to affect the shade but now I think about it when planning a paint job.? I wish I had painted those white wall inserts ?

Yeah, right ?

I was just bloviating. I need some ?

Wow, progress! I was caught up in the paint job thing and this thread got away from me?! That hardtop is a foil pig, ain't it? Good thing they provided the side chrome. It looks great! Party on!

Bob, it's not the paint as much as what you do before and afterwards. The '56 pickup you posted on 5 September (above) looks pretty shiny to me. Some pearls don't have a mirror look and indoors they just look dull. Out in the sun is where they come to life. I don't think a "wet" look is appropriate for 1:25 scale. If you micro polish, reducing grits all the way down to 12,000 without skipping any, you will get a really nice finish that looks in scale. But you already know this. I can't get a really good finish on black no matter what I do. So I keep black paint jobs at a minimum. Black may need extra care and even then a clear coat. The prep work is where you have to put in the work on a dark color. I'm not willing to go to those lengths. I don't like that phase of the build. Use Tamiya "Fine Surface " primer just before color, but give it a couple of days to dry first. If you don't have this stuff, get it! It's sah-moooth! Beautiful paint. Pricey. OK, I'm done.?

I wish I could remember ?. Hmmmm.....the Cameo is Testors (1/4 oz bottle) green metalflake, '48 zzzzzzz is Boyd's (model master) purple pearl (?), the sectioned ford is Testors extreme lacquer purple metal flake rattle can, the '34 is also rattle can extreme lacquer( gold metal flake, I think), High & Mighty is Ace hardware Premium rattle can ( I highly recommend this paint), the Olds is Krylon ivory (probably), and I think the '40 is Krylon burgundy. I really like Testors bottle paint thinned with cheap lacquer thinner for air brush and micro polish on everything after it's cured. No clear for me, thank you. Not if I don't need to. Below is Testors Arctic Blue on the Chevy and good ol' sub-lime green from the spray can on the GTX. I think the deuce coupe is Dupli-Color with clear (maybe Krylon)over it. The altered '34 is Testors 1/4 oz, purple of some description . The pickup is Krylon metallic gold, as is from the can. Not a great finish but a kinda weird color, yes? When I started spraying I was expecting something completely different ?.

Most of my paint jobs are flawed somehow, even though the overall finish is good. I don't use clear gloss very often because it's an unnecessary step since I want a more "in scale " look. I would micro-polish it anyway, to flatten out the orange-peel. I have not taken many staged shots; they are all indoor, sometimes before completion and until I do a real photo shoot of everything I've done, this suffices for now. The best I can find are here. Thanks for looking.

My sympathy on the Christmas tree , it's fun putting it up but not so much taking it down. The low temperature in the garage may be a problem for the adhesive on the foil. Also, metal is affected by temperature too. You may try doing that work in the house where it's warmer. When the model is finished, that is where it will reside, no?

I only use Molotow as is, from the pen,, on chrome touch-up(bumpers, etc) and for small details, I pump a little out on something non-porous and use an appropriate size brush. I have arthritic hands and my eyes have floaters that drive me crazy; you can do it, Bob ?.

Yup, Roger that. The detail is insane and the paint work is breathtaking. The off- beat sedan/family car idea is not seen very often in scale. It's quite refreshing ?

For that really small stuff like handles and those little stars I stopped trying to foil and just use my extreme fine brush and Molotow chrome ink. And magnification. And decaf.?

I've done all that Greg, but a day or two later it will look wrong. It could be my eyes ?. I pin everything with brass wire that can fall off or get knocked off. I have used wire to align mirrors, headlights, etc...if I can drill it, it gets pinned. I've broken all my good #80s, #79s,78s, etc...so now I use #75 and thick CA. I need a good set of bits ? .Gotta spend the money.

I was relying too much on the emoji to do the job, a little too subtle...but your response was in line. No worries.

Amen.

I was trying to be funny, Mike. That's the part I hate. I can never get them looking in the same direction. I'd love to get a lesson on that. ?

What they said, Bob, ditto to all of it. Can't wait to see it in foil. ?

A little progress.....loosely mocked up. Fabbed up K-member, finished "tubbing" job. Moving right along ? I still have a lot of body work ahead and need to work out some steering . Time to paint the frame and move the engine along, detail and such. Oh, and make ladder bar anchors. I don't get why my pix get out of order. Just know that they are not ?

No sweat....I'd never heard of it before this. I searched it. There's a good picture of one back in this thread on page 1- its a 1:1 drag car of some description.

Hey, Mike, I see you haven't mounted the headlights yet.?