kalbert

That's probably the case. We're talking model manufacturers and resin casters here, not Apple vs Samsung. Nobody's pockets are deep enough to make it worth pursuing. A lot of the resin out there is straight repop from kit parts, but nobody's getting rich doing it, and nobody's trying to reproduce entire kits and sell them for less cost than the real thing. It's not worth the time and money to hunt down a guy who's copying some wheels from a kit that's not available anymore and probably won't ever be again. Resin casters for the most part don't do stuff in currently available kits, they do have a little respect for the hand that feeds them!

Other than the Voomer Vega and the like, the Lindberg kits I've built over the years haven't been any more or less accurate or difficult to assemble than any other. No model is 100% accurate, and every model will need some cleanup, that's part of the fun!

The 1/20 kits get a bad wrap for being the wrong scale, but darn it they build into nice models. There's quite a few of them that I wouldn't mind doing if they came around again.

I guess I always thought the first rule of fight club was you dont' talk about fight club?

I expect this is good news for us, Round2 seems to know what's going on and has been reissuing some cool stuff. Seems like Lindberg has been stabbing in the dark lately, hopefully Round2 can find the good stuff in their library and bring it back out!

Why is it so much fun to watch other people struggle? I don't know... But it is!

That one looks about right to me. Looks good!

Cutting is fine, just don't heat them... You'll be sorry you did on the model and the real thing!

I have heard... but not personally tried... that if the scratching isn't too deep or the polishing didn't quite get you all the way there, that a dip in Future will make them just about unnoticeable. The Future bath also leaves a somewhat resistant coating on the glass to make it less prone to scratching and scuffing.

That restoration is in need of a restoration! There's alot of cars around here that were hastily 'restored' 20-30 years ago that are showing their age a little bit, you captured the look pretty well.

Been quietly plugging away on the Revell '56 F100 for a few weeks. Here's what the parts looked like right out of the box. Can't tell from this far away but this is the flashiest, most inconsistent mess I've started with in a long time! Every part has a razor sharp seam around the edge, and the cab has mold lines all over the place, around the top of the windshield on both sides it looks like the molds didn't even line up right! The chrome plating is also pretty poor, some parts got missed or have little bubbles in the finish. A majority of the past couple weeks was spent cleaning it up and test fitting things. This past weekend I finally got the engine assembled, the upper and lower half fit together like crud but a bunch of sanding and filler and sanding and filler and I think it turned out ok. Building this one OOB so the motor's not much to look at. I colored it like a base T-Bird motor from '55. The water pump pulley and fan look crooked as all get out in the photo, but in person it looks straight as an arrow. Not sure what's up with that.

Sounds like you're on the right track... Most of us have a buy to build ratio that's a little one sided

Here's all I could find today, dug to the bottom of the parts box and my MPC 5.0 Mustang GT motor was MIA, as was some other stuff. Here's what I did find in the Glue Bomb box. At left is the Revellogram '92 FIrebird, not a T5 but at least has a modern semi-real shape to it. I think you are right, it is/was supposed to be a T10 with a long tailshaft. Next is the MPC Iroc-Z, I don't know what that is supposed to be but I did notice lots of other MPC transmissions in the parts box look just like it. At right is the Revellogram '93 SVT Mustang, closer to a T5 than anything else in the parts box, but the case seems a little short and the tailshaft seems a little long. I think the bellhousing from the Firebird looks like it would clean up pretty good, and would be accurate for just about any application other than the Firebird/Camaro. It would probably be a good starting point for the tilted F-body one though, a flat piece of styrene glued on crooked and a little filler is about all it would take. C4 Corvettes had the wonky 4+3 thing from '84-'88 and then had a ZF 6spd until '96 (or a 700R4 auto). The Revell '90 5.0 Mustang appears to come with a great looking T5! http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65168&p=789579

One more to add... The Monogram 5.0 Mustang appears to have a T5 on it, kind of a crude one but by far the most T5 looking thing I've been able to find. It also has a decent Ford bellhousing. I can gather up everything I have and take some pictures tomorrow.

I built the MPC 5.0 Mustang a long long time ago but I'm pretty certain it was an AOD, or maybe a generic lump of a manual. The MPC Iroc-Z I've got has a really crappy lump of plastic for a transmission with what appears to be an automatic looking bellhousing but it does have a sort of slave cylinder looking spot on it. The one that looks the most like the one on the real Iroc-Z I had is the one in the old Monogram 1/24 92 Firebird but it has no slave cylinder details. The transmission in the Firebird has sort of the right overall shape but has cruddy molded on shift rods! I don't have a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe to compare. The Revell S10 looks like it has a 700R4 and a pretty decent example of it. The Big 1/20 Lindberg 1st gen S10 has what looks like an NV3500 and it has a real nice bell housing, albeit 1/20 and useless!

My CarQuest has it too.... Funny, I go in there all the time but for some reason walk right by the paint!

I'll never understand why SCJ decided to ax the Future name (and some others) that were well known and respected in their niche and instead stuff it all into one brand name that has never been identified with most of the products that now bear it's label. They've taken generations of brand identity and flushed it down the crapper in attempt to create a stronger brand identity!! Imagine if Pepsi did this with Mountain Dew, and started calling it Pepsi with Mountain Dew flavor, then Pepsi Dew, and then just Pepsi in a green can. I *think* that is going to be the correct stuff though, it's the stuff I bought a few weeks ago anyway. I haven't used it yet but I'm getting close to that part of the project.

You could maybe use some Tracker ATs from a revellogram kit, a piece could be sliced from the middle and the outsides glued back together to get a skinnier tire.

Yea I'm kinda wondering too. Been trying some other brands of primer but they're either too hot, too thick, way to thick, putty, or not sandable with any sandpaper I know of. PlasiKote Sandable Primer was the best stuff, but I don't seem to be able to find it locally anymore either!

There's also a multitude of different resin casters doing all kinds of engines and parts from flywheels and flex plates to complete engines and transmissions, blowers, hats, you name it. Parts range from copies of rare kit parts to one of a kind custom built stuff. It's hard to list all the stuff that's available in one place, you're best bet is when you're looking for a specific engine to start a thread asking who makes a ________. Chances are there's one out there somewhere. I have no idea how people found out about resin part availability before the Internet!

+1 A chrome straight axle, fender well headers, and velocity stacks look cool on a magazine cover, but lots of guys would use just about anything that might pass inspection to get down the track quickest. Time plays a big role too. Early stuff would be modified differently than later AWB stuff.

Does that Monogram Fiero come with a 4 or v6?

Cool! I like the 70's vibe going on with big and little slots. All you need is a little air hose leading from the shocks and a Hi-Jacker decal in the window They kind of look like the ones in the Monogram 55 Chevy Street Machine.

I use Testors from time to time because I can get it locally when I want it vs placing an order and sitting on my thumbs for 3 days waiting for it. it's not the greatest thing ever, but I've been pleased with the dozen or so license plates and things I've printed on it. The key (for me anyway) was to print more than you need because some will smear during the printing, some will smear before you get the sealer on, and some will smear when you put the sealer on. I'm too impatient waiting for the ink to dry though, however long I wait I should wait twice as long and go make a sandwich before touching it or trying to seal it.

I had forgotten about some of his other things.... Some were pretty nutso, but I remember the Nova he did, it was amazing and pretty much changed the scene until pro street went berserker. Here's a little info right from the maker: http://www.dobbertinhydrocar.com/J2000.htm