hooterville75

Ill take photos and post them. I got the 1957 because thats what was available to me. I thought thats what it was. However I seen someone mention that the kit was a 58.

Wasnt the Belvedere in the movie Christine a 1957 Plymouth Belvedere ? I sure hope so as I actually have a restored 1:1 57 Belvedere because of that Movie. Painted identical and all. Would suck if its actually a 58 lol.

I received the Bilge Motor today. For some reason I thought it would be a bit bigger then it is and don't see how that lil thing is going to blow 250 CFM's but time shall tell ha ha. There's actually not much to it. The housing, with two mounting legs coming off of it, the fan in the back with a electric motor (appears to be) attached to the fan. There are two wires connected to the motor, a Yellow wire and a Black wire. That's all it consists of. It does have an arrow pointing and saying the direction of the airflow.

Well being lucky to have multiple kits of this same Davey Allison, I got another body out, primed it with the same Rustoleum primer and then re painted it with the cheap Wally World Black paint and when I came up about forty five minutes after the first coat, it seemed fine. Time will tell. Im giving up on the Rustoleum regardless because I A want to try Plasti-Kote that Dr Cranky recommends and B want to try the Tamiya surface primer.

Richard, I will do that and would love to be able to get Velocity because they carry a lot of the Star Mazda races that my friend Sage Karam from Nazareth, PA actually races in for Andretti Autosport. They carry a lot of Motorsports on Velocity. Id imagine that F1 will be on the NBC Sports Network which I doubt will be showing many races live like the SPEED Channel does.

You know the SPEED Channel is in bad shape when you turn it on to watch Formula 1 Debreif and qualifying last night a bit early and they have UFC on. In regards to losing F1, it really doesn't matter to me which network broadcasts F1 as long as I can watch it. Competition is what makes todays world go around and if SPEED got outbid, it is what it is.

Could the primer that a model builder uses be the sole contributor to paint problems ? I did a McDonalds Bill Elliott Nascar model as my first kit ever. Primered it with Testors Gray Primer from the Aero can. Then painted it with Testors Red decanted and shot out of my Aztek propellent airbrush I started with. The end result was what I considered a really happy product with nice results for my first ever kit. Ive since got this idea that this big ole can of Rustoleum primer I seen would be better. Cheaper and a lot bigger can. I did my next kit which was a Davey Allison Nascar kit. Primered it with this Rustoleum primer. Came time to paint the body and it did some serious orange peel and paint was like cracking on the trunk bad. I got irritated with it, put it in the box and left it alone. Moved onto a 1957 Chevy Bel Air AMT kit. Put the primer on, painted the body and hood, well wouldnt ya know. Orange peel again. So I'm thinking ok whats going on here. I get the Davey Allison body back out of the box, sand it all down, wash it up with warm soapy dish soap water, re prime it, come back in a couple of hours to check it and its all orange peeled and cracking again only this time on other parts as well as the trunk. Could it be the Rustoleum primer is the problem and not actually the paint or my equipment or even as I want to not think of, user errors creating the problems ? Really frustrating me badly. I hate to waste it but if the Primer is the problem, its going in the trash can and a bottle of Plasti-Kote or even back to the Testors primer again. Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Wow thanks for the great info. Will be looking at the hookups "If" it ever gets here lol. I hope its that easy lol. The less wires the better off ha ha. Ill definitely be in touch when the motor gets here. If you need them, Ill take photos of the motor when it gets here. I'm going to have to cut the plug off the power supply I buy off evilbay. Will take photos of the wires after I cut the plug off as well. Hopes its as easy as your referring, as I assumed from initial posts that it was going to be a disaster horror story to get this unit powered up.

I guess if your an electrician lol. Its all trial and error for me. Ill get it figured out. Still havent gotten the motor in the mail yet to see what for hook ups it has. I'm actually getting ready to call the Marine I bought the motor from to explain what I bought the motor for and see what he recommends. Should be interesting. Will report back with what he says.

Ok so basically I want to get a 12V 5-10 A power supply. Will start looking on evilbay. Till its all said and done Id have been better off just waiting till I could afford a Dayton Squirell Cage Blower Motor and been done with it lol. Oh well can't say I didn't try to save a buck ha ha. Thanks for all the info. Ill let you know what I come up with and how its running once I get it all finished. Thanks again for the info. Much appreciated.

I dont know if its AC or DC I would assume AC because it was used as the power supply for the PC tower. Plug it into the wall and then another three prong box type plug in to the back of the PC Tower. There is no type of black box as in is used to power a laptop. My laptop power supply is a plug that plugs into the wall, goes to this black box and has another box type three prong plug that plugs into a black box, that then has another wire going to a circular plug that plugs into the side of my laptop.

10A - 12.5 V - 1250 W is what it says right on three pronged plug that plugs in to the back of the PC tower.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3A-5A-6A-US-Plug-DC-Power-Supply-Adapter-AC-100-240V-LED-Lights-5-5-2-1mm-/251149618381?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&var=&hash=item3a79af0ccd How bout this ? $.99 + $2 if what I have doesnt happen to work ?

This plug is off my old desktop Personal computer. You plug the one end into the wall, and then on the other end is a box with three prongs on that you stick into the back of the PC Tower. This is the plug that ran the power to the entire tower of the computer.

Thanks so much everyone. Much appreciated. Let me get to work seeing if I can obtain what youve mentioned Ill need. Thanks again.

Hey all I recently purchased a Bilge Blower Motor to put in my built spray booth. I'm trying to find a power supply so when it actually gets here I'm set and not dragging this build on any longer. I have found the following power supplys laying around and wondering if anyone knows anything about Bilge Blower Motors. The power supplies I have are as follows. Does anyone think either of these will work. Here is a bit about the Bilge Blower Motor. Ignition protected Spark proof 4" (10.16cm) Intake 4" (10.16cm) Exhaust with remote bracket 5-3/4" (14.61cm) Length 4-3/4" (12.07cm) Mounted height CFM 240 Air movement. Ignition protected 12V DC, 4.5 Amps Use 5 Amp fuse. Blower meets or exceeds these standards: ABYCH H-2 NMMA Certified USCG 33 CFR Sections 183.410 and 183.425 ISO 9097 UL Listed UL 1128 Standard Marine blowers. 50-41841 I have a plug that is used to plug in a computer tower. It is a I-SHENG IS-14 and is 10A - 12.5 V - 1250 W I also have a old laptop plug that was two pieces. It had a plug that plugged into a box that had another wire on that went up to plug into the laptop. I only have the part that plugs into the box which I believe is pointless but not sure. So it reads Input = 100-240 V - 1.7 A - 50-60 Hz Output = 18.5V - 3.5 A Then I have (2) plugs that read Technics Direct Plugin Class 2 Power Unit Model : TEAD 48-120800U Input = 120VAC - 60Hz - 15W Output = 12 VDC - 800mA Then I have one plug that reads Input = 120VAC - 60Hz - 15W Output = 9 VDC - 1 Amp I also have a Power Protect AV 600 with Surge (protector that I cut the 8 foot plug off of. I don't use it as a surge protector anymore since it was updated with a new surge protector that the better half left someone talk her into. I was originally going to just strip the plug for the copper to recycle but got the bright idea that this may work for a spray booth power source sometime so I kept it. I have no specifics power wise on it so was hoping someone else may know. I'm currently researching this myself as well. Thanks in advance for all info. Hoping one of these I have will work as I'm starting to stress out over this project. Deron

Does anyone know the proper and safe way to get power to a Ignition protected 12V DC, 4.5 Amps Bilge Blower Motor ?

Hey all, from my original post I had on the Blower Motor I obtained from my father, not knowing anything about it other then it was a Fasco, I decided to purchase a new one. I ended up getting a Marine Bilge Blower Motor. It is 4" intake and 4" exhaust, it's spark proof, ignition protected and blows 240 CFM's. I figured if this still wasn't enough CFM's that I would buy another small Bilge Motor as well. This Bilge motor is brand new so should be what I need. Hoping so anyways lol. Thoughts or concerns about using this motor would be very appreciated. Which style of draft do you recommend I get? A cross draft or a down draft. For either draft, where do you recommend I mount the motor in the booth. The booth measures a total of 30" tall. It starts with a 9 1/2" storage compartment (which can be knocked out eliminating the tiny lil storage area) at the bottom, then 20 3/4" working area. It is 24 1/2" wide and 19" deep. I imagine that this topic has been discussed prior many times but I searched through the first few pages of the various threads and was unable to find the info I was looking for. So I hope Cadalliac Pat will give me some leniency with asking this question because it is a honest question, looking for some honest answers so I can do things properly when building my spray booth to have a quality running spray booth. Thanks in advance to everyone for advice, and any concerns etc. Here is a photo of the Bilge Motor I obtained and some facts about it that were listed with the item description when I purchased it from Evilbay. Housing is molded tough corrosion-proof ABS plastic. Rugged built-in mounting brackets for easy installation. Molded tabs on all hose flanges provide positive hose connections. Ignition protected Spark proof 4" (10.16cm) Intake 4" (10.16cm) Exhaust with remote bracket 5-3/4" (14.61cm) Length 4-3/4" (12.07cm) Mounted height CFM 240 Air movement. Ignition protected 12V DC, 4.5 Amps Use 5 Amp fuse. Blower meets or exceeds these standards: ABYCH H-2 NMMA Certified USCG 33 CFR Sections 183.410 and 183.425 ISO 9097 UL Listed UL 1128 Standard Marine blowers. 50-41841

Na I prefer to be a bit on the chillier side. Running pants and a windbreaker and I'm good to go

Didn't actually purchase any new kits today but was able to score a Testors Enamel kit of Flat Military colors, and a Testors Enamel kit of Gloss colors both kits with Metallic Silver and thinner. Each kit came with a hobby throw away knife, three glue tips, five sanding sheets and Testors Clear cement for glass. Also got a bottle of Testors Acrylic thinner, Can of Sunnyside cold lacquer thinner, pack of Xacto #11 replacement blades and a tube of Tamiya putty. Pretty excited to put some of this to use on my second kit. God this hobby is AWESOME.

I agree Jaydar. You can always put more layers on but there comes a point where you cant take anymore layers off lol. I may get a bit of snow in the winter time but at least I can control the temperature in my work area. So hot or cold it won't really set me back any.

Ramfins59 & Slusher, I just did this this past week. I was working on only my second ever kit a Davey Allison Nascar kit, got everything done and kit together. Came time to start the body (which I waited to do till last) put the Primer on. Finished the primer coats, gave some mist coats, I came back to give a fourth mist coat and it was what appeared to me to be worse then Orange peel. I did some sanding work on the body, getting to where I felt was capable of painting it again, and got the same effect. I don't know if I should strip the paint totally and start again (which will probably be what happens), or give up and throw it away. Somethings wrong somewhere but I wanted to avoid the problem for a bit out of anger so I just put it in the box and started a new kit which is a 1957 Chevy Bel Air AMT kit. Being very new to this hobby I'm very cherry so I figured the best way to handle it was to put it away, do some research for what I possibly did wrong and come back after doing some research online.

Like Dave Blaney alot. Good friends with his brother "The Lowrider" Dale Blaney from Sprint car racing. Good racing family.

I was actually outside power washing the siding on my house shirtless and in shorts soaked to the gills loving every minute of it. Now tonight its down to about 50ish. Love this type of weather. Id rather be in a windbreaker and running pants, that way I can just throw up my hoody, and paint. Ha ha. Dr. Cranky wouldnt have liked seeing me paint the other day as I was in shorts Have since taken a different view on saftey after watching a few videos. Respirator is the next purchase. Snow well when I get some, Dr Cranky can get ready to accept a tractor trailer (reefer even ) full of snow sent COD cause I'm having a tractor trailer load sent down to em ha ha.

They got Snow in Calgary, Alberta Canada this week. Cold too keep it up North ha ha.