RyanSilva

Ive taken plain kleenex type tissues and tea dyed them to get a neutral brown color, dried them out and it resulted in a nice workable tarp. Bungee cords can be made by using the black rubber from making fishing lures or a koosh ball, then wrap some stiff wire around a siimiliar size/shape as the rubber and it will give you the hook.

Congratulations Lane! And I second that, always wear your helmet..it's saved me many times myself back when I rode Honda ATC 3 wheelers and xr's, you just never know, plus it helps to have a comfy one too

Beautiful rig Chris!!! Looks straight out of the 70's brochure.

Great work Pali, that camo looks excellent!

You're welcome sean, Im glad you like them!

Try here http://www.showrods.com/home_page_links/home.html Great website, been around for a long time too, I love visiting because I always notice a kit I never knew existed

The photoetched cylinder heads are available actually but for porsche 356 if i recall, i forget who makes them but I seen them on automotive forums model section.

Back when I was building the mustang II reissue, I mocked up the great chassis from the amt 67 mustang fastback and it worked well as a starting point, that may also be the same for the gremlin too. Anyone mock up the firefighter mustang chassis to the gremlin yet? Im still waiting on mine to arrive.

Not anymore, I'm back on "chichingot", however Im slowly moving away from ebay, Im building a website and a updating my Fotki to sell direct

Patriots will take the championship...then again im bias

Thanks guys! Mike..you can build a 356 and not worry about the engine either

I finished molding the stock Fujimi 356 Wheels, now I can start converting resin copies to different widths.

VW Dave let me borrow some of the more unique VW parts although 1/24 scale I think they will add some useful options to the manx, Im working on the widened porsche 356 wide 5 wheels, regular width, wide..and wider I just need to make a brake drum to adapt to the manx kit. I got the old style solid wheels too Corvair engine and 356 fujimi engine also I got a single rib dune front tire I made, just making the final touches to it I got lucky on my kit, I got white plastic under the chrome, and the enamel melted right off with purple power.

I finally bought one of these kits and it arrived today, I ended up scoring the snow plow version, which I always wanted 50 bucks plus shipping is is pricey for a kit for most people to just use for parts,,and I know its a bit niche but 4x4 portal axles are pretty scarce! Im also working on the 20inch modern military bolt together steel wheels I'll cast the tires/wheels also. Tires will be both rubber and hard tan resin.

Im with you! newegg all the way, been using them for 8 years now, while they arent like they use to be, its still my go to place for parts when I build gaming rigs or mom pc's.

Thanks Mike! Yup the split mold is how they are done. Dave, I'll snap some pics of mine, just something I threw together to see how they would work. I cut the d hole center from a amt nascar wheel and put them in my 13"inch wheel sleeve, so it has the same center size as the nascar wheel but the sleeve changed dimensions, Do you know what truck wheels they are based on, they dont look familiar to me. I love niche market stuff, something I want to get into just not that knowledgeable with it, but always liked the look. Thanks Eelco! A friend of mine who got the first set is a big fan of the super single pickup tires.

ASUS! my choice for all my graphic card and motherboard needs. Bought my mom a netbook from them a few years ago, using a ASUS transformer tablet too . I would avoid dell .(thats just me) their PC's are filled with bloatware (useless programs, trials, and clutter items you wont use)

I created these super singles a few weeks ago using the same amt dually bf goodrich tires (so they match) I took resin copies of the normal single tires and cut them down on my lath, and made them wider. They are almost as wide as the dualls but not quite. They measure 16.80mm from sidewall to sidewall and 15mm wide at the tread. I made them in rubber and resin, Im pretty happy with them! Im also gonna finally mold the medium width bridgestone, which measures 11mm instead of the 9.50 or so that the satco tire is.I did find a decent rear floater hub from the tommy ivo kit of all things, just need to mold the locker hub front to match. After these are done I will finish up my 5 lug and 4 lug bassett 13" wheels + slicks. Working on 5 lug cragars and 4 spoke American libre wheels, any other kits with small unique wheels? (i have the opel gt and 69 corvair)

No you dont need one, but I highly suggest a pot if you sell any resin at all, the quality is night and day and worth the 80 dollar investment.

Frank I would leave a bit more room around the tire, unless you are using this as a test. One more thing about when its time to slice the mold, make nice clean cuts, if you do short jagged strokes, you can make a rough parting line and that will reflect on the tread line. I found using a stiffer silicone helps with the block molds and making clean parting lines. @ Dave, Thanks! Its been working for me for a few years now, with both rubber tires and resin, I aim to produce only clean high quality castings of everything I do. 2 more things about this. The length of your fill port/support reflects in the mold, so when casting you want it to be at least a 1/4 inch long. Dont try to skimp and make a smaller one to save on silicone, what happens here is that half of the mold will be left with less support when its all cured, and can give you oblong tires. The width of your port matters however small parts can have smaller ones, just flap part of the mold open and pour, then close it, with wider tires sometimes you will get bubbles that rise up and hide under hard edges like around the fill port, sometimes they cant sneak around that edge and up the port to gas out, so to combat this you make a wider fill port with some styrene, the width of the master tire (say a pro street) if using resin you can get away with a thin wide fill port, if using rubbers I suggest using a 1/4 inch bub in center and the .60 styrene on either side of it. I will have more pics tomorrow.

What you want to do are 1 piece glove molds, or some call slit molds. You do these by not using clay or doing 2 piece molds, but as a 1 piece..1 time casting. Start by glueing a piece of rod or the like to the tire ( i use hot glue) to act as the fill port, but what this does it suspends the tire in the mold box. glue the fill port to the base of your mold box, pour your silicone as you would. You pressure casts like me, correct frank? When your silicone is cured, you will use a xacto knife to slice part of the mold equally on both sides of the fill port to about halfway to either side of the tire, so only part of your mold pulls apart. You can cut the center of the wheel opening when you stretch the mold apart..or you can put a spacer in the tire before casting that shields both halves of the silicone. When your master is pulled from the mold and the 2 halves f the mold are together you are left with a pretty seamless mold aside from the fill port.

Ive noticed micromark is prepacked smooth-on, in fact most of micro marks items are repackaged items that sell for much more money but that's another topic I use smooth-on products exclusively, Ive tried alumilite resin and wasnt a fan of it, sets up way to quick, and they dont have many slower than 3 minute resins. Smooth-on has a few mix time ranges that I use. The smooth-cast 300/320 and the 305/321 (300 series is white, 320 series is tan) With complex molds and summer time use i use the 320 or 305, when its the winter and much cooler I use the faster setting 300/320's. Its very thin in viscosity though not as thin as polytek's resin. If you want to make tires I suggest Polytek pt flex rubber, demold in 1hr 1:1tin cure silicone is fine for making quick castings and its cheaper but it doesnt hold up to many casts, you can tear it with your hand. I like using mold max and dragonskin platinum silicone for production items. Smooth-on makes a new series of silicone called mold star which doesnt need to be degassed with 3 different mix times, Ive used all 3 and they work well. Even though I pressure cast my resins and silicones it works well without one and just vibrating the bubbles out and pouring in thin streams.

Most of the fleet in my area are the Ford chassis versions with the 300 six and 6 hole budds that tom is building now. Very rarely do I see the smaller workhorse

The wheels most likely came from me, its been about 2 years since I sold them. Ive been meaning to clean them up on my lathe but been a little busy Beautiful work Tom, that cab is on my to-get list!

Jeff, Eric has that too! Its on erics facebook in the photo albums. " 1957 - 1964 Jeep FC 150 - 1/25 scale - 45.00"