RyanSilva

Nice dave! I got a lathe so I make all my outer hoops, just use the kit parts/resin copies for the centers and then production mold them after.

I have the Porsche 356 wheels and will be casting them soon, and will be also modifying them for fitment to the manx kit when I get a hold of one. I will also have some wide versions for the rear too

Hot faucet water to loosen it up and a pan of cold water to set the shape. Start with warm water first and see if it helps..if not open up the tap a little bit more.

So that's why you purchased a set a while back! The weather in mass has been really weird, more so here on the eastern coast, not a hint of snow yet. Look forward to the progress when you get back to building. BTW, how much smaller were my wheels than the tires?

I have not used micromark or alumilite products, but have used John greer, smooth-on,polytek. I always come back to smooth-on smoothcast 320 and 321. I started casting many years ago using oomoo silicone, but it was only good for a few casts, I then moved to mold max which was a lot better for production casts, then I used Mold star 16 to get my feet wet with platinum cure silicone, and recently bought 16lbs of dragonskin 10 fast I pressure cast my silicones and resins, I wouldn't have it any other way.I use to order from theengineerguy but it takes a full week to arrive with ground shipping, so I use reynolds advanced, its in boston so it comes next day using ground shipping! If I order in advance I go to dickblick and but the 2lb kits for 20 bucks! Buying the gallon kits works out much better in savings, however you should have some chemical resistant containers ready with a dry gas blanket to keep your resin from going bad to soon. You reduce the risks of bad resin when you work with smaller bottles, using the gallon kit as a refill.

This is one kit I always wanted since I first seen it! My child hood..the box art was the early 90s reissue with the black truck on it.13.99 was a lot for me..when I could get 2 car/pickups for the same price, So I never got it. I do plan to pick this up along with the roadboss (even if it has some poor fitment)

I'd love to come across dimensions also! My plan is to cut one out on a cnc router..even if it is mostly square it will serve a excellent starting point

Read this http://public.fotki.com/HobbyDrop/hobbydrop-ordering-/hobbydrop-intro1/

Very true! I'd love to see a workstar as a replacement of the mack granite I always wanted. I have a feeling that the prostar is gonna be a large sleeper version like the lonestar, considering they got the sleeper already tooled up, which would be a bummer for me..but overall a good thing for the truck community in general as we get a new rig. But im not sure I will buy one, the trailer heck yes!..prostar..maybe, maybe not.

I can't wait for these either! I second what Ben said, 2 hole budds on the trailer and air ride! The prostar I hope isnt a sleeper cab, if it must be then the back cab panel could be seperate so a day cab panel can be easily inserted. Future release? Would love to see a mack granate, and I no im not alone with that

Part A is the side that goes bad the fastest, it will get milky when it sucks up moisture, harden on its own as well when it is exposed. a trick is to break it down into smaller bottles and seal them with the nitrogen charges, so it isnt reopened constantly you are fine, breaking it down into other bottles, will make sure you always got some resin to use and will be pretty fresh.

Just an update, I got rubber tires now! read my blog for pics http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?app=blog&module=display&section=blog&blogid=70&showentry=94 available from me directly at this time. also have hard versions using smooth-on onyx

As a 4/3rd sensor camera user, Id purchase the olympus epl1 refurbished for 299. you get full auto, full manual, raw and the chance to upgrade lenses if you find you want photography as a hobby also. I own a olympus e-pl1 and it is a fantastic camera in a compact body. Here are a very small selection of my photographs http://ryansilva.500px.com/everything/

I too hope the plastic is a bit better on this reissue. I got the 1950 ford f150 pickup (the yellow truck one) and the parts had more flash, and much thinner plastic compared to the blue box and the traditional custom versions

Get the harbor freight version, with the 20% off and the extended warranty its a good buy! The only time I will vacuum resin is when I need to suck out the moisture to save it when it starts getting foamy.

Those look great sean! by the way sean, soon as I pick up some brass rod the axles will be complete, i noticed some slight flexing with just a all resin axle, needs some support that the brass rod will provide.

MACK Granite with some modern super single front tires!

If I had a master I would start cranking(no pun intended ) them out!

There lack of mix time options arent good for me. Now with the summer heat, smooth-cast 305/321 is my go to resin. (real world times its about 5minute gel time with 35min demold for wheels) I have a reynold sam in boston, so if I order before 10am the night before I need it, it comes next day with regular ups ground! I cant beat that anywhere hehe.

I didnt like alumilite resin either, I tried about 5 companies, and smooth-on remains king. The new Onyx slow is awesome for hard resin tires. How are you liking the mold star? I want to try it when I'm done with my gallon of mold max

If you have a vacuum setup you can save old resin by sucking out the moisture. Ive yet to get a centrifugal vacuum pump but plan on it in a few weeks.

I got me about 15lbs of silicone

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200354872_200354872 Great compressor for the price, and it is quiet. The tank will help with ripples, that you would normally get with a tankless air compressor.

Just dont bend them! They will snap, Ive bought a few sets now they work beautiful, but since they are carbide you have to be very careful.

Brandon, I own 2 of the harbor freight pots. They work pretty well after converting them to resin use. I have had problems with them leaking air from the regulator so a cheap ball valve should be used also. Down the line You should think about replacing the 4 clamp bolts with some grade 8 hardware for some insurance. I cast at 75 psi though. One thing I have noticed with the HF pots is the design changed, my first pot was built a bit different than the second one I picked up 2 years ago. One thing I did to mine was used plaster of paris and filled the bottom of the pot so I have a flat surface, cut some parchment paper to fit the bottom to use as a liner. 3 years ago when I first started production casting, I started from the get go using pressure. While a vacuum chamber is useful, it is expensive compared to the pressure pot (assuming you have a average sized air compressor) Simple 1 and 2 piece molds of basic complexity parts will fair well with just a pressure pot and a tooth pick for the fussy items. Dont forget you need to pressure cast (or vacuum) your silicone molds if you intend to pressure cast, why? because your mold will deform under pressure. A regular mold thats been made using the gravity poured way will still have air bubbles under the surface, vacuum and pressure eliminate this problem. Google the harbor freight 200 off coupon, that saves some good money on the pot.