RyanSilva

I have the transfer case sorted out actually! I'll do a update soon as I gather up my parts to take pics of.

Thanks! The bud wheels and tires are my own resin castings, I only have the rears wheels available right now. The fronts are being reworked, as are the tires.

Hi Justin, I'll be back on it when it starts snowing up here in the northeast. Happens every year..it really gets me pumped up hehe! I got a few changes to make to it, mainly with the suspension and chassis. Should work out well when I update.

I actually wanted them to fit the old satco commercial truck tires (like the ones Ma's casts, and also those other ones from the snaptite duallys) They measure around 16.05mm which is cutting it close. Its all in the steel wheel, the center I can machine away, its just a matter of finding the right diameter wheel to begin. This one in the pic is a steel wheel from the front drag steelies in the revell fairlane kit.

Mike this build is looking wonderful! I love the details and accuracy. I actually started on a 8 lug steel wheel. Keep in mind this was a test piece, to see if the concept would work, and will be much cleaner on the new one. Soon as I find my small drill bits I can make the floater hub with RB motion lug nuts. The one on it is a placeholder from a dirt track car (amt)

Awesome work! What I really like about them is there in scale, or at least proportioned nicely and not very large like some I've seen.

Ever since my resin casting took over..I rarely build, but I do make some spare time for mock ups. I need to get back in the groove though! Here are a few over the years ..

Ian are you using smooth-on silicone? What you describe happens when you use urethane mold material with urethane resin I've used every product from the smooth-on Oomoo and mold max series and it has never once needed a mold release(unless my molds called for it when they approached the end of there life)

The two places I order from for smooth-on products are "the engineer guy" based in georgia, and Reynolds advanced materials which has a few warehouses around the country. They have one in boston, so I now use them because my items arrive next day for only a ground shipping price vs instead of the engineer guy which is 3 days ground due to distance. (both fast shipping businesses) www.theengineerguy.com www.reynoldsam.com

Yep the AMT 34 street rod has a IRS also.

Soon as I find my unbuilt version I'll get it cast up.

I have not tried Alumilite, but Use Smooth-on products everyday. I like Smooth-on mold max series 10-30 and smooth-cast resins (300 305-320 321) and Task 5. I used Oomoo but moved onto the mold max once I was doing production stuff. Oomoo is fragile silicone but works well for the hobbyist caster.

Thanks for the update Chuck! Looks like I will be still buying up the early 2000 version instead.

Awesome work Eric! Those budds look good too ;P

I'm wondering if the Stake truck still has the tractor frame included. Thats what made me keep buying the last issue! My assumptions is it is NOT included, based on round2's attempts at picking apart the 2-3 n 1 kits and making them completely stock. One reason I never bought the stevens reissue of the tractor was for the price also..45 bucks (give or take) was a lot for what you got (considering you could buy the stake truck for 25 bucks)

Hanks truck pictures, would be the best website to go to here is what I found! http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/sh_ok.htm is this the same company?

You arent pressure casting huh? You should , especially with clear. It will take care of those bubbles for ya.

Nice work Ben! I hope Jamie or someone casts It, I could use a few of them for my C cab/louisville fleets!

"The engineer guy" carries the trial kit of 202 http://www.theengineerguy.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=CRYSTAL-CLEAR-202-TR They are located in georgia, I use to buy from them all the time, till I found reynoldsam.com has a warehouse in boston, so my items get shipped ground..and actually arrives next day!

Hi Mike, you are correct. However the purpose for owning a pressure pot is you can pop all your airbubbles in your RTV to a microscopic level You do not need to vacuum or degas your silicone if you have a pot. Not sure how it works for car bodies, but doing 1 and 2 piece molds for wheels, suspension parts and other items, pressure is wonderful. My resin experience is a shot in the bucket compared to the guys who have been doing it for over 6 years, but in my years of casting, letting RTV cure under pressure has been amazing. Make yours molds as usual, mix up your RTV, pour your mold..throw it in the pot and let it cure under pressure. Mine will cure in less than 10 hours, then I'll bake the mold for a hour at 150 degrees to finish it off.

I use320 and 321 for about a year and love it! Moldmax series is wonderfull stuff. I used Oomoo before and it didnt hold up well for me, so I use moldmax 10-30 exclusively. Even if you're a hobby caster(casting for yourself) A pressure pot from harbor freight, a 1/4 and 3/8 plug fittings and you're set. It is enough to turn your world upside down and get beautiful casts. I find the money spent is money saved in the long run with botched castings from foaming and humidity. This summer was brutal, in the north east for casting, with all the humidity. Now I have a reason to break out the 2nd pot!

I was looking forward to this all year! What a punch in the face!

Get something from Mo'luminum/jamie his tires are much much much more accurate than the revell floatation tires (they are 1/16th car/van tires if I recall)

Times like this, I wish I had a thin PE saw, those are very thin and don't take away much material. Pretty neat for getting between stubborn parts.

What type of glue? If it is testors style tube/cement glue, I had no luck, but superglue the purple power made it brittle enough to pop most pieces right off cleanly.