RyanSilva

There really is no excuse for such large pictures now a days, given all the "Freeware" image resizing software with a simple google search.

8 lug steelies are now available. Working on the wide deep versions, which are about 7mm total(5mm deep if you were looking into the wheel) new wide tire was made to suit the wheels but its still 16mm so it fits most standard wheels anyways. Tire measures 13mm at the tread and 15mm on the sidewall. its just a "what if" tread pattern, inspired by the 70's jumbo looking tires) Next wheel is a 8 spoke wagon style wheel from the dodge d50 kit. i shaved off the outer lip and made a deeper wheel, using the steelie outer hoop so it too is 5mm deep. Not a fan of the center caps but that can be drilled out. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Your 8 lug wheels are on the way Mike! I cant wait to see them on there.

Here is me.

Hi Sven, Check out my link here http://public.fotki.com/73OldsOmega/reference-photos/trucks/ford/1/ford-c-series-coe/?view=roll I've collected many photos of the C cabs over the years from the internet. I still have many more to upload when I have the time.

Thanks guys! They will be complete soon, I actually have the wheels ready without centers (how they are pictured above) if that is your preference.

Ovencleaner for me! Non scented type, wear a glove and dont breathe it in, as its very caustic. I spray mine into a large freezer ziplock, as most of the work is actually done by the vapor and fumes, so you want a nice seal.

Thanks Kris! Mike they will most definitely be available with and without tires. I have not priced the tires yet but the wheels will be a set of 4 for $5.50 +shipping Wheels should be done next week or so. First preproduction set goes to Foxer for his Van, so it doesnt end up sitting on jackstands and blocks at the masscar show in a few weeks!

Hello Guys, Always liked pickup trucks/offroad stuff so Im branching out a bit on some new products. Early in the year I started on a more accurate 8 lug steel wheel that seems to be missing from the model building community(1/25scale)Also seeing foxer's need for the wheels really pushed me into finishing them. I know of the dodge pickup 8 luggers, but to me they are goofy looking, which is why I wanted these. They measure 16mm behind the wheel bead, the flange itself is 16.20mm I will make centers for them and will sell them like that with a locker front hub and a plain old 8 lug floater hub center. I lack a mill right now so doing the tiny bolts on a locker hub will be difficult, so for now it will get one from a dirt track car. Any interest in the tires too? based on the bridgestones (when they are in production they will not be branded to avoid trademark mumbo jumbo) I will have 3 versions, 7.30mm wide, 9mm and the 11mm (the wide one is a test, i will eliminate the center parting mark as much as i can on the master) Centers are 16mm Still based on the satco tire, so they are still 30mm tall, while not a huge tire, it still makes a perfect tire for pickups with stock to mild lifts.

I wont make it to masscar as a vendor due to the date change, I might make it as a spectator though! My wheels measure out at 16.20mm at the face, and 16.05mm behind the flange, only because these are based off car wheels and not truck wheels. I know the old dodge had some 8 lug wheels that looked really goofy, to large and deep for the stock crowd, so i guess no matter what there are gonna be compromises. Do you have a close up of the front dustcap on these trucks?

I love the progress mike! Here is the progress on the wheels. there about done, its a tad "off" center bit a little scrapping with the knife and circular reamer, it should even out. They fit the satco bridgestones, so you will be A-OK there.(the wheel outer edge looks a little jagged, it isnt the wheel, but the tire, i pushed it in to far in the photo)

Up here in mass, during the summer it gets just as humid as florida some days, and a pressure pot works fine for both silicone and resin. The only thing you cant really use are fast set resins (unless its small single mold stuff usually) I use the smooth cast 321 which is a 7 minute mix time..but in the humid days it can drop to as little as 3 minutes)

I see the Taig is treating you well buddy! They look awesome, and it's nice to know you're the only go providing these stellar pieces at that type of detail level!

The easiest way to make a master of something is to break it down into simple shapes.

I just have one short section to fill with clay and it should be good to go, then I can work on the fronts, which would be very easy with the lathe. I will keep the 3/4ton floater hub separate, so it can be used a 2wd truck also.. I will add a smooth slightly recessed center after.

Looking good Mike! Update on the wheels are, I got the first master in silicone now curing, tomorrow I will see what my copy will look like, then I can fit one of my 8 bolt 3/4ton hub in the center. (stole it from a amt dirt track car) What do the front wheels look like, just a dust cap conical type center?

Add more key holes, you can never really have enough, even if there the size of a pencil eraser, just make a few more, the better the mold locks into place the better. And like shucky said, move that vent closer to the fill port. Usually if your vent hole is lower than the fill port, the mold itself has a tough time filling up to the top.

I agree with Marc! I got the same one and it works well for the price! I will be adding a 2 liter tank to mine in the short future also. Just purchase the extra warranty from the store (all items have a 30day policy, after that you are out of luck and have to rely on the manufacturers warranty, by purchasing the one from them..if anything happens, you just return it and get a new one)

Phil I own one the same as that porter cable, and mine is very very loud. Its something around 85 decibels.

I almost always add my vent holes after molding, Like Mike, I use a sharp blade and it cuts like butter. I even use my dremel and a drillbit to create circular vent holes.

I would buy the 1/5th hp airbrush compressor from harbor freight, purchase the warranty from them for a few bucks, just in case it fails, you bring it back no questions asked, and you get a new one! I bought mine just for that.

Excellent! When I looked at your pictures a few years ago, I always liked that truck myself. How do I contact Klaus to see what he sells? I got a autocar dc 6x6 I'm building that would look great with them tires!

The easiest way and cost effective (in my opinion) to start weathering is, pick up a few acrylic craft paints on sale from your local a.c.moore, michaels crafts, joanns etc. Look for browns and blacks that vary in hues, such as wrought iron, umbers and siennas. A nice round head bristle brush and a cosmetic make up sponge (latex work the best) Work in layers, building up various colors (which means you will want to go back to previous colors to create dimension) Try it on a chassis. I like airbrushing my colors and and adding the final crud with a brush also.

Depending on the tire material, the dullcoat must have reacted with a old formula, Ive used dullcoat on most revell/amt tires made in the past 15 years and had great luck, no stickyness. To make them dirty, you can shake them tires in a mixture of real dirt (sifted dirt is better) in a container.

I'm sitting at my desk today doing invoices and such, and it dawned on me while glancing at the Revell snaptruck tires, Most builders hate the darn things, and most of us have at least 2 dozen of the goodyear 10x20 truck tires in a box somewhere!..so how about combining the two in order to solve some problems!? The revell tires have a misaligned ridge from the molding process, so one half is larger than the other. I took a sharp razorblade and made a even cut around each tire. Its important to cut the tire on the side of the last main tread in the center, so each half will have those 2 treads, making the completed tire have 4 main treads in the center Note: It does take 10 snap truck tires to make 5 completed ones....but I have a bunch of these tires, And I know a few of us do as well. The goodyear 10x20 is the perfect tire to fit between the two halves. Im using the older version from the 70's but both work. The plus side to using the newer ones is 1 half already has a 22inch wheel opening for when they fit over the 5 spoke wheels in those ford coe kits. You will need to glue them. A dremel will work good with the sanding drum attachment, to increase the side of the wheel opening on the goodyear, use the outer halves as a template. The end result is a tire matching in width to the italeri rubber tires at 11mm wide.