RyanSilva

You're very welcome Pat!

Nice! Yea the ones on that kit are a beast to work with. I redid the ones on the Single axle louisvilles, What it comes down to is really, details are not sharp and folks just hate dealing with mold lines on springs, its one of the biggest turnoffs building a old kit..imo. Plus its easier to scrape off a mold line in resin rather than styrene hehe. Cant wait to see the new stuff!

That is great! Just springs would be a hot seller in my opinion. Axles are great..but we don't need them some times..so a option of just buying springs would be great! I know a lot of truck guys have axles sitting around (I know I do!many louisville ones and even dana/9inch smaller axles as well.)

Matthew, I would go for it, the details in matt/dave's springs would look correct just because of how detailed they are with the leaf overlap! Unless someone actually knew how long a f350 rear spring was, I dont think they would know the difference..I wouldn't!(but you gotta please yourself..not others..hehe)

The general rule of thumb with mixing paints is to get it like a milk consistency. Its really just a giant experiment hehe. Some shops sell premixed paints which are a easier way of airbrushing. One of the biggest turnoffs to most folks who want to try airbrushing is getting the airpressure correct along with mix ratios.. just work at it and you will soon get the hang of it!

I have nothing to add but to mirror what Crispy said! Thank you!

Excellent! Cant wait to see the buildup! And very clever! on the grill part, never would have thought of that. Yes I do have one. My only intentions were to master up the fender /grill portion and make it work for the Ford L series truck chassis from AMT. Its on the back burner..but the reference pics still exist on my fotki

Excellent!!! Does the fender come with the wider front grill? (f7 and f8's had wider grilles than the f1-6)

I love the revamp. I used it a few months ago..but stopped when I was not getting any sales at all, however I'm back, with even more resin items

My buddy jim bought the archer rivets. They go on fine..but hiding the decal film is a bear. decal softer ends up softening it, but the rivet heads come off the decal film! Hasnt tried dullcoat, clearcoat or future yet though.

I would go for the tichy or grandt line rivets. They offer many sizes, so you should find what you need.

Like Bob said, IE will let ya save them with the simple right click save-as. Snipping tool in vista/7 works great for webshots.com!

My advise is, how much $$ do you plan on spending, and how far do you want to take it, quality wise? I use Dascar resin and Smooth-on exclusively, they work perfect for my needs. If you want bubble free parts...get a pressure pot. Not a cooking pressure pot but a Paint pot like Jody said. Yes the initial price is a turn off but it increases your usable resin items by a vast amount. Do you need one to cast? no not at all..it just helps with creating less waste/unusable items. Get a shipping scale, you can find them cheap for about 10 bucks or more at harbor freight, use this to weigh your silicone and catalyst..seems intimidating but its a great tool and is really easy to weigh silicone. Most of my wheel molds are 200grams of silicone and 20 grams of catalyst. I do my smooth-on shopping from http://www.theengineerguy.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?display=home Nelson and Sarah are great people. They're located in georgia, and their prices are not inflated. My suggestion for stuff to buy are some cheap Popsicle sticks, some sulfur free modeling clay, a mold box..anything flat with 4 sides really that wont leak. I use these white paper cardboard boxes from michaels for a buck each. doublesided scotch tape, for sticking parts to your moldbox...clear plastic cups for mixing. Resin? Smooth-on smoothcast 320 or 321. Both are tan, one takes longer to cure. 320 gives you around 2 1/2 minutes to mix and pour..pop bubbles squeegee off the top of the resin, while 321 gives you about 5minutes. Get 1 trial kit..costs 25 bucks. Get a trial kit (2.2lb) of Smooth-on Moldmax 20 silicone....much better than the Oomoo series that tears and breaks apart. PM me if you need any clarifications

Josh, if you got some basic computer knowledge it might be easier to build your own setup. It all depends on manufacturer and the cutting size. http://www.probotix.com/FireBall_v90_cnc_router_kit/ is a pretty good one, but you need to buy the controller, motors power supply, and a computer/software. If you shop around you can build one for less than 1 grand. Their are also plans to actually build your cnc machine from scratch, if you're handy with woodworking, you can pull it off without a hit. Doing so you can build a machine for almost half of the cost!

I've been wondering the same thing Ben, he had some cool stuff!

Black Metal

Beautiful wheels! I suggest using RB motion lugnuts, his new website has paypal now so its easier than ever to order from him. Another alternative is using nuts from grandtline or tichytrain group.

400 xpr...I love mine..

I was watching a few sherlines and unimats on ebay..it seams most of the unimat lathes end up selling for 300-450ish and sherlines..well they're all over. Plenty of the sherline 4000's I missed out on sold for 225-700+ depending on condition and amount of extras, which is why I just bought a Taig lathe ..made in america also. I saved about 30 bucks buying it unassembled, which saved some cash for extra tooling. I'll convert it to CNC to do small production truck wheel hoops before summer hits. I can do it for less than 500 bucks using a gecko controller.

He does have the best offer option..my guess is he had a big price..to attract people, in order to notice it..then offer a best offer price.

Ah gotcha, I was thinking you had one and it burned up. I paid 335 bucks for my lathe shipped, with everything but a motor. The money I saved with the motor I got the cross slide table. If you look into the taig lathe, dont bother with their marathon 1/4 hp motor..its over priced. Does the same work a sherline will for almost half the price. Cartertools gives you 10% off the listed price of lathes and mills.

What happened to yours? Time to turn it into a cnc machine ... few nema 23 stepper motors, hobbycnc controller..your pc, and a 36v powersupply.. I just bought a TAIG lathe.. and will be building my own CNC gantry setup too for milling plastic. TAIG mills are great too, buy it from cartertools.com

Woohoo! Been waiting for this one! I made these to fit these trucks..

Correct Dave!...not to long ago on ebay when that "other guy" was offering afx products on ebay, a few sets were being sold.

Badger Renegade series! It's a 100 dollar brush that can do line work that rivals a 400 dollar Micron. I use the gravity fed velocity, and the detail work is amazing. Grex is great too.