RyanSilva

alrighty.

Anyone have the rundown on pricing for the Masscar show? 2009 prices are fine, as the 2010 flyer is not out yet. Just want to figure out if I want to vend (small space)

Ill set up you guys with a link in a few days

copy and paste..

Why not purchase it from dencon then? He is a member here

Hey Jim don't forget the 1950 F1 pickup 2 n 1 from revell. Get the newer one, it has a ardun flathead setup (pretty correct too if you get the newer 2n1 box..truck is yellow on box art.

Karl Stark is a great guy, some quality resin. He sells through his fotki account.. http://members.fotki.com/chucky151/about/

Dooo iiiiiitttt Jody They're fun! I need to finish this... Vizio... those slicks need giant white walls lol

sweeeet, added!

That has crossed my mind! LOL. I might just make it pin on, Il clean up the edges and see how it will work. I am glad it broke where it did. right below that back window. Glass can stay attached to the body while that trunk half just fits up close like snuggle bear. This arrived today Il fire it up once the heat dies down later on today. It came with some smudged anodize on the paint cup on the brush..but im not gonna cry about it, it will be worn off within the year anyways . The case is very nice, comes with a iwata hose adaptor too. TC Graphics gave me a free flame template and a quick connect iwata hose adaptor..so now I gotta get a hose! But I can still use the badger one I have now. It is pretty heavy, but very balanced. The quality is very very nice..and it is smooooooooth. The knob on the end of the tail tightens the spring inside, so you can get it soft or firm.

Thanks Mike! I cut out the wheel wells on the nascar chassis. What I will be doing is putting sheet stock to make my own. The reason why is the nascar ones were to high and hit the back window, so the chassis wouldnt seat well and true tthe body. The widebody flares will meet up into the wheel wells on the chassis to look like all one piece. I gotta find my other wide tires, if not Ill just make some more

I roughed in most of the outline first with a pencil and a circular shape, like a revell slick tire, I traced the outline, sanded the area with a dremel and a drum sanding bit, Then I took double sided tape and wrapped a craft paint (those 2 oz acrylic bottles) and wrapped 100 grit sand paper from 3m around the paint bottle, then just turn it by hand in the wheel well till it is smooth.

I started a 69 camaro asphalt LMS but couldnt get into it (still a big fan of the 1:1 though) I had this 66 coupe for close to 11 years as a glue bomb from my younger years. Few years ago I started cutting out the wheel arches to make a little dirt car out of it but things changed last night. I managed to rip off the trunk due to not much material being left on to support the back since I cut out the arches and sanded it thin. So this will be fixed, but it opened up a opportunity to fine tune the body to chassis. Going for that low wide body look, might do a really large air dam and wing like a pikes peak hill climb car. Might even switch to dirt tires. For now it has wide 5 circle track wheels, although heavy they are super strong. Still at the "playing" stake, wheels and tires etc. Power will be a small block ford It will get the fordsixty widebody treatment Chassis will be the truck arm nascar chassis. Depending how much wheel room there will be, I might go to dirt tires for a pikes peak unlimited class car.

You were not thrown under the bus in your resin topic, those were fair responses.. sometimes getting a straight answer is a little tough to take in...but this is a public forum,where opinions are shared whether asked or not.

I think I know what thread this is.. Don't let constructive criticism get to ya, most folks mean well, when they give suggestions, some just word it badly so it comes off as an attack.

I got a new airbrush Badger Renegade velocity! Now I can build again..

Most of my resin casting is for myself and close friends, although I do sell some of my mastered items..or really uncommon parts. Some will argue the point that "the money you spend on all your resin supplies, you can just buy the kits you need" true..but getting one kit, say the 1950 ford f100 ardun flathead, casting those parts for yourself would save you money in the long run and more fun to boot! For wheels, I usually lay down one or two of the same wheel, and about 6 different wheels on one sheet, then pour my silicone, Now I got a mold of multiple wheels I can cast at any time, It will take 2-4 pours to get a complete set, but I get a variety of wheels to the collection. Same thing for flathead parts, Ive casted manyintake setups and head setups for one block, stromberg carbs too. It is fun!

I only use Smooth-on products. I do not bother buying the "starter kits" Eventually Id suggest a pressure paint pot, turned into a pressure reservoir. Although I started with one from the get go. it dramatically reduced the amount of parts that are trash, pressure forces the resin into the lug nut details and finned details etc, and less air bubbles, most cases zero bubbles or pin holes. Harbour freight has 2 1/2 gallon paint pressure pots for 80 dollars...use a 20% coupon on it for it to be cheaper. Gonna need a 1/4inch air fitting plug, to block one of the holes, and a 3/8th air fitting plug to close another hole. after that you are ready to go. Naturally resin casting costs a bit more up front, but started with a pressure pot reduces the amount of trashed parts, some will argue this and say "you dont NEED it" but hey..for me and many others it is the only way. (cheaper compared to other ways also) You save money in the long run. I only buy my silicone and resin from www.theengineerguy.com Fedex shipping is accurate, he does not gouge on the prices, nelson is the man! Popsicle sticks are awesome stirring sticks. Can buy them cheap in bulk 100count bags at craft shops. You will go through many. You will often find some 1:1 (volume) silicone's, those are nice for ease of first time use, but they aren't as durable as 10:1 mix ratio silicone's (by weight). By durable, I mean two things. As resin cures in your mold, it slowly deteriorates the silicone surface each cast, eventually the resin will start pulling up chunks on your mold (most often with 1:1 silicone's, then there is tear resistance, eventually the silicone will split, so taking care of the molds is a major factor..however it is easy, and not overwhelming to a first time caster. Mold release will make your mold last longer, and reduce the pulling. A simple petroleum jelly and mineral spirit mixture is a easy way of making a thin brush on mold rease, or you can get a dry silicone in a spray can for around 12 dollars. A cheap gram scale can be found at target for 6.99, or you can get a digital for much more money. I use the 6.99 one for now. Works just fine. I recommend smooth-on oomoo 30 for the first time..reson why it is very simple to use and to get you to know and see the basics. Or you can jump right in and get the 10:1 mix ratio by weight silicone, much stronger and longer lasting than oomoo, costs the same just a little harder to use (by hard I mean you need to weigh it..simple), and smoothcast 320 or 321 for resin. Most is self preference, some except color pigments more than others. Again I recommend the pressure pot, you will get professional quality castings, or close to it.

Yes, MEK has strong fumes, Yes it will make you feel funny if you smell it real good, But it is NOT gonna kill you in general model usage. Naturally you should use it outside. skin contact and ingestion is where it will get you the most problems, and potentially kill you by attacking the lungs. It attacks the nervous system too, Ive used it for years..but only outside on my porch, works better out there.

I heard from a good source, that he has STOCK left, not producing, but still has inventory. So..no, not end of story

If the spokes were painted gunmetal grey, I think black and creme would be perfect!

The passed few months Ive been burned out, started projects, got so far as to almost completing them..but just cant find the will power to finish the last details. Maybe this will change that! I hope so. Revell 69 camaro AMT 1/25 nascar chassis, cut in the rear to fit body. Engine? SB or BB..not sure yet. Wheels are some wheels I modified to fit the ASA centers, then casted them up after I fixed a few things. Tires are AMT goodyear nascar slicks, some are cut in half and glued to other of the same slicks to make wider ones. Little more trimming on the body, but that will be after. The chassis is nearly a direct fit, just some dremel grinding underneath the body where the hood meets the firewall, was all that was needed, left and right side needed to be trimmed is all. And the rear of the chassis. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

seperate caps, but no lug detail, the slots are open but they are also shaped wrong.

Nice so there is a little stretch, just what I need. How much longer was the cure time?

Head over to Corral.net, there was a writeup there I saw a month ago, but it was for 87-93. You would most likely need to update to the newer bumper cover. I coulda swore I seen the square headlight version also though.