Rasputen

Note that the real car shouldn't have any engine badge or M-U-S-T-A-N-G lettering on the sides of the front fenders. Now would be a good time to remove them!

I only have the Heller / Union kits which don't even include any light housings. If you like, you can send me one of the Fujimi parts and I'll shrink it down and cast some out of resin for you. Just give me an idea of how much smaller they need to be.

You did an excellent job! Since you asked for constructive criticism, I think the plug wires should be more red than orange. Also, the fiberglass intake trumpets are a little too monochromatic. If you look at images of the real thing, they always look like they have had a brown wash applied to them. I think the real car had small lights for the roundels on the doors and the rear deck lid too. Those decals must be fun to apply! I wouldn't worry about the fit of the rear body work as it was a terrible fit on the real ones too!

Nice work! I worked at a Chevy dealer back then, I remember the cable shifter for the manual trans. The quicker you tried to shift gears, the more trouble it gave you. The V6 version was pretty peppy though.

The 2CV in the movie also has seats that appear to be wicker on a tubular frame. Would these be correct for 1962?? I've been having difficulty finding decent pictures of them.

I like the prices in that magazine. $2.00 for an MPC GTO kit.

I remember going to a Mark Fidrych game in the 1970s. We were back in our car, on the way home, in 90 minutes.

Gary, I've asked for the exact same feature. I want to be able to permanently exclude certain countries of origin as well.

I have an ESCI Lancia Beta Monte Carlo, the main body section was quite warped. I was lucky to find a second one to use as a parts donor.

What the heck happened to that rear license plate?

I think RMM offers a resin one, at least for the small block.

A lot of people forget to paint the white backup lamps onto the appropriate tail lamp lenses - the 71-73 Mustang models are a perfect example.

You did a fabulous job, but I think this car would have had a 12 volt battery. I think the US manufacturers switched to 12 volt systems in 1954.

We need some more pix of that XJ13 too! Is that built from a kit?? Nice work!

It's a beautiful car, but I noticed the same thing. He even left the NAPA sticker on the radiator hose.

I took the image of the real car and overlayed it on the scoop on your model. These are taken at different angles, but hopefully this helps: Looking down at the top of the rear fender, the fender shouldn't get much narrower between the wheel well and the scoop. Hopefully you can see how much I painted on the top of the fender to make the scoop fit. The faint edge of your fender can be made out, cutting through the middle of where the scoop opening needs to be. Also, the opening of the scoop looks to be about as high as it is wide - you need to extend the opening further down, like here: I probably went a little too far but I think you get the idea.

Nice work so far Ed, but the side scoop openings on the rear fenders need to be re-shaped. The top edge is almost a horizontal line, while the outer edge is almost a vertical line, like a Lola T-70 scoop. The rear fender doesn't really change shape much where the scoop is formed.

I just print decals with an ALPS printer and a chrome foil cartridge. It is a thousand times easier than trying to use BMF. Plus, if you want to have the emblem on top of woodgrain, like on a wagon, I don't know of any other method. Here is a Renault Alpine I did - The A-L-P-I-N-E letters are a decal:

I could probably print you some chrome foil decals of the scripts - I need to print some for my station wagon project anyway. What we really need a PE replacement for is that clunky hood ornament...