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Quick GMC

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Everything posted by Quick GMC

  1. I like it, but I prefer the original look under the hoods of older vehicles, not the super clean plastic covered look of modern cars.
  2. RB Motion shocks are awesome, I have used several sets
  3. I am just kind of winging it. I painted the color, then did a wash, then did some dry brushing, which pulled some of the wash out. I just kind of went back and forth. I tried to go in the direction the wear would occur on a real car, from front to back. I tried to accumulate some dirty spots where dirt would naturally collect,.
  4. They had them at my local hobby shop in several different sizes. I think they were for that board game Warhammer? They got rid of all the board game stuff not long ago, so they don't have them anymore. I found these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271968433845?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
  5. got a little bit more done, but still a ways to go. I didn't like the molded in detail, so I shaved off the door detail and made new handles and pull straps Not 100% done, but got the general shape Took some thin sheet styrene and sliced it up, I will add bolt detail when I mount these, these are the pull straps to shut the door I bought these tiny magnets a while ago, they are really strong. I got them to embed into the plastic to be unseen, which is what I did here. I mounted them, then filled the voids and gaps with super glue. Should be invisible when all painted. These surfaces don't mate directly together, but they are still strong enough to hold on Very difficult to mount these, you can't use tweezers because they won't come off Got them mounted to the body and the engine cover Just strong enough to hold it on. However, i think I may have a problem now, because when just sitting in place, it tilts towards the rear with the magnetic pull, and it will be worse with the photo etched wing pieces. I may have to do magnets in the front now. I am considering hacking up the exhaust to replace the bland kit turbos with these 3D printed turbos from TDR. I have to primer them and see how much detail I can get out of them first.
  6. Awesome. Thank you for that information
  7. I think there are 3 confirmed winners now, after cash payout, split 3 ways and taxes, each person is down to about $300Mil or so.
  8. That's a good idea, thank you. I know they are subtle differences, but to me the 69 looks a lot better.
  9. ok, I didn't notice the rear. does anyone know if a kit or aftermarket parts were ever made for a 69?
  10. I have a few of the BOSS 429 kits, but I would really like to do a 69 version. Is there anything out there, like a resin transkit or something? I know the front end is different, but what else is different, other than the side vents?
  11. The B pillars and thin parts of the nose are very easy to break, handle with caution
  12. I'm assuming that includes the cost of a car. That engine could easily be $50k or more, the car $50k+. I think you're right, I don't see $150k there. "because nobody had the balls to do it". I think maybe be cause nobody had the mental deficiency to do it, is more accurate.
  13. They salted the metal to ensure rust started and they kicked dents in the car
  14. Your pictures aren't showing up
  15. Thanks guys. Trying to get some more done on this before work takes over again.
  16. ok here is what I have. The carbs on the far left are the ones that appear to be the correct size, maybe a tad large, but the others are far too small, comparing with real pictures The RB Motion stacks seem to be the right size for these Here is a mockup, but without the correct manifold. I have to modify the manifold or scratchbuild a new one.
  17. I got a little more done on this one. This isn't the color I was hoping for, it is supposed to be more red, but I think it will work. I painted the chassis, then started the very tedious task of masking the certain area that needed to be painted. Blue Tack is a life saver. If you don't have it, get some. It's like Silly Putty, but sticky. first the wheel wells Then the engine Then the engine cover I punched out some BMF and applied it to the 3 pneumatic jacks to make them stand out. Then the weathering and suspension parts. Only cell phone pics for now. I will take nicer pics when I am done. Here is the color the chassis started with, without the clearcoat. The body will be the same color Still need the one cover on the chassis and the exhuast, and that part will be done. Next is the interior with the wiring and details, then on to the body.
  18. Thanks for this. I will measure them and see where I'm at.
  19. This is basically how I wanted to do my booth, but I just don't have the space for it, so I ended up doing a benchtop version This turned out great, looks very nice.
  20. Alright, so somehow I made a huge mistake. I have a little box where all my engine aftermarket parts are. I went through EVERYTHING this morning and found another set of TDR Webers that are much larger. I checked my purchase history on Shapeways and found a purchase made a while ago for 1/20 Webers and stacks. These seem to be the right size, maybe a little on the large size, but I think they will pass. They still need a lot of work to get smoother out and stuff, but so far these are by far the closest to the right size for a downdraft Weber I have found. I have no idea why there were stashed somewhere else or that I even had them. Those comparions photos someone posted are my pictures. I will do this again with the new Webers and next to the engine parts. I have compared the way it looks with some actual 1:1 Weber 427 setups and they look pretty freaking close. The challenge now is to scratchbuild a FE Weber manifold, as TDR does not offer their manifold in 1/20 I think what happened was I was on the hunt for these carbs like I am now and I ordered these, and when they came in I was so busy with work I tossed them in a box and completely forgot. I will post pics soon
  21. Scale Production I think is going to be releasing theirs again this month. I have seen a bunch of stuff floating around on Facebook
  22. Yes, to clarify I am looking for the downdraft carbs, not the sidedraft like in the Grand Sport kit. I'm well aware that it would take someone with a lot of skills and experience. I don't want to pay absurd amounts of money, but if it took $300 or so, I can deal with it. Seems crazy, but I would really like to do this build eventually I scratch build some things, but this is out of my realm. Yes, doing some things on my own are fun, but this is not something that would be fun for me. I don't have the time to learn this particular skillset of miniature sculpting. This is one of those instances where I would rather pay to have it done right. I have a family with a 2 year old and I run my own business. Build time is rare in itself, this would just ruin the hobby for me. I used to make a living in a very laborious industry and I became incredibly good at my job. I charged a good amount of money for what I did, I respect what it takes to do these types of things well and wouldn't expect someone's time for nothing.
  23. I have been searching for years for the right Weber/stack combo for a build I want to do and I always come up short. I want to build a 427 Cobra with Webers, from the Revell Kit. I have the Fujimi Webers, HRM Webers and stacks, R&M of Maryland Webers and stacks, Scale Production stacks, RB Motion stacks, TDR Innovations 3D printed Webers and stacks. None of these are the right combo. The problem is all the aftermarket Webers are too small for the engine in the Revell kit. The aftermarket turned stacks are too big for the Weber kits. I believe I have the right size stacks, as I have several different sizes now. What I need is a larger Weber made. All the ones I have seem to be 1/25 when I need 1/24. The 3D printed Webers seem to the best the best size so far, but there is too much sanding to do to keep them clean. I am willing to pay more than I should for this, to cover material costs and pay you for your time. I can also provide the parts that I have for reference. I refuse to do this build until I have what I want.
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