vincen47

I appreciate your kind words. Thanks, Brian.

Very resourceful technique to create a fine build. A beautiful truck…very worthwhile.

I used to just focus on one at a time, but that seemed to create a lot of stalled builds. But now…two is perfect. For the past couple years, I’ve found it helpful to have a “main” project and a “side” project to alternate between, when waiting for parts or inspiration. It’s revolutionized my workbench success. The main project has huge amount of detail and scratch building, so it moves slowly. The side project is a much less demanding build, (and I tell myself that it’s ok that it is less detailed) so it moves faster and it helps to provide quicker “gratification”, when I just need the satisfaction of getting something completed - whether knocking off few steps on the assembly instructions, or a full build, in a relatively short amount of time. I’ve fully completed four or five side projects since the start of my main one a couple years ago. It’s a good balance for me, and my overall success of completing builds has increased drastically.

An excellent model to pay tribute to your dad.

Started the outer sidewalls and front cap. I used some Galaxie trailer parts for the front cap, but widened them, and used a leftover 3d printed radius curve section from the RV body for the top portion. It’s roughed in, requiring more putty and sanding. I added an interior step well for the side entry door. The wheel wells will eventually get curved outer fenders to match the tires, along with the lower side panels to match the RV. Cut out the side entry door. That’ll be operational, along with the rear ramp door. Next, the sidewalls will get an inner framework and interior walls. Lots of body work.

Nice to see people coming together to help this very deserving guy.

Thanks! I’m looking forward to the trailer interior. The majority of the rest of the trailer will be scratch built, including the sides and roof. I’ll use some kit parts and aftermarket stuff when I can.

I’m beginning work on the stacker trailer, with the plan to paint the coach body and trailer at the same time. The trailer will be loosely based on 24’ triple-axle models from Intech and T&E trailers, typical of what’s being custom-built today for use behind toterhomes and diesel pushers. It’ll match the 379 RV - all black with stainless lower sides. I plan to have a fully-detailed interior with cabinets and a 14’ lift. For the frame and floor, I’ve sourced parts from a partially-built Galaxie Limited 5th wheel enclosed trailer kit. I modified the length to match a scale 24’, added the bumper pull tongue from another kit and lengthened the tongue to a scale 5’ (extended tongues make it less likely to hit the coach body in sharp turns). Out of the box, the floor width is too narrow, so it was widened 1/8” on each side with styrene strip for an overall width of 102” (with the sidewalls in place) in 1/24 scale. I cut out the kit’s inner fenders and replaced them with taller and longer ones made from styrene sheet. The wheels and tires will be 19.5”, and the axles will have a 42” spacing, more typical of modern stacker trailers. To lower the ride height of the floor to the more realistic 14” ground clearance of most stackers, I modified the frame for the axles. I’m using the kit’s inner wheels as rudimentary disc brake assemblies to add width to the axles. The wheels are oval hole 19.5s from Scenes Unlimited. Tires are 19.5 Bridgestone steer/trailer tires from Moluminum. Next, I’ll be working on the sidewalls.

He’s been in the hospital with some major health issues. Last update, he’s making an improvement, but the business probably won’t be fully operating for a while. Let’s wish him a speedy recovery.

Nice tribute build. She’s a beauty.

This is Tamiya Rubber Black from a spray can. Then, just a touch of charcoal black weathering powder on the sidewalls and tread to bring out the details.

The best clear for Revell Chrome I’ve used is Spaz Stix 10909 Ultimate Clear Coat. Minimal reduction in shine compared to other clear coats, but it does tone down the brightness a little bit. All of the brightwork above, with the exception of the photo etched catwalk, exhaust mesh, and the engine parts, was done with Revell Chrome and Spaz Stix Clear.

Excellent addition to the collection. Glad to see you’re able to get progress done again in the hobby. Happy recovery.

Now that’s an interesting 80’s Mash-up.

One of these years, I need to make it to that show.

Great paint scheme for that era. Nice build.

Thanks for continuing to bring us more options in truck building!

Oh boy, she’s a beauty! That color is so pretty. I would love to see a 1:1 like that at a truck show with that exposed engine. It would be a showstopper! I especially like that you put an air to air system on it. Not something you see on a lot of resto-mod builds, but ya should.

Thank you. There were a few other items, like the asymmetrical air intake ports on the firewall and the really uncommon heavy-duty front springs, that could have also been corrected or replaced, but I decided to try to keep it to correcting the more obvious issues of the kit (or at least the ones that bothered me the most). I’m glad you enjoyed it.

Nice build. Shows how versatile those snap Pete 359s can be. Reminds me of a bumper-pull Hay Hauler, but it would make a nice “just for fun” show truck, too.

A great build. Looks like a serious heavy hauler that gets the job done, no messing around. Nice use of aftermarket parts. 3d concepts are sure making some nice stuff.

Thank you, I appreciate that. Fortunately, it was one of those builds that I enjoyed more as it went along, and especially after it was done. Sometimes it works the other way too, where you lose excitement and interest as it goes along, right?

Great start on another great project.

Thanks, I was hoping the two tone red with black fenders would look good. I was pleased with the results. Yeah, they are nice wheels. Nicely priced, too. All I did was coat them in black primer and then one coat of Revell chrome. That’s it, no sanding. Thanks! Thanks! I figured that would be a spot where it would be rusty, but normally not seen on the real thing. Glad you like it. Thanks. Thank you! Thanks, I enjoyed it. It was actually more of a side project, worked on it while I was waiting on parts or things to cure on my RV build. But, went “full time” on it the past couple weeks to get it finished up.

Here’s my representation of a Mid-90’s Pete 378 that’s still making money for its newest owner. Part of a small fleet of Pre-Emission rigs, enjoyed for their good fuel mileage and reliable Series 60 Detroits. It’s looking like it’s due for another in-frame rebuild, but after that, it’ll go another near million miles. The paint was refreshed before the recent sale a year or so ago, so that’s still in good shape, overall. Not bad looking for a 30 year old truck. To fit the story, I built it as a truck that’s not perfectly polished, but is generally well cared for and maintained. A working truck. The owner put a few accessories on it, including a bug deflector, air cleaner lights, center hood trim, and a swan hood ornament. Light to moderate weathering was added, especially on the engine. The paint coating under the hood is chipping, there’s a few dings and scratches, and the IFTA and DOT stickers are a little crooked, just like a “little less than perfect” truck. I set out wanting to build it near box-stock, only making corrections to Italeri’s shortcomings. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a good kit, but there’s a few things that Italeri missed out on or screwed up: 1. Air/Fuel Tanks & Air Cleaner Seams - filled and refinished with Revell Chrome. 2. The kit’s European-style 5th Wheel was replaced and the base was modified so the 5th wheel is centered between the tandems. 3. A basic Charge Air Cooler representation was made from an Italeri FLC radiator. 4. The engine should have a rear sump oil pan. It’s a set-forward axle truck, so to avoid the axle hitting the oil pan going over bumps, it needs to be flipped around, unlike what the instructions show. 5. The kit’s shallow washer fluid reservoir was replaced with a more realistic scratch-built one. 6. The kit has a tool box on both sides. Peterbilts should have a battery box on the left side, so the left tool box was replaced with a resin battery box from AITM. 7. Wheels and tires were replaced with much more accurate 3d printed Alcoas from Black Sheep Customs (eBay) and steer & drive tires from Moluminum. 8. Injector pin marks on the side mirrors were covered with reflectors from Czech Truck Model. CTM photo etch was also added to make the exhaust, deck plate, grille, lights, emblem, and air cleaner mesh. Great stuff. 9. The engine has basic plumbing and wiring, not too elaborate. Air and electrical lines were added from Earl Miller (Available from Model Truck Builder), along with a simple scratch built air line box, and an all-position spare tire. Thanks for checking it out!