jbwelda

yeah that looks very nice and the blue is smooth and cool too.

dave: pm sent

very nice! you still see a lot of these on the streets in england, right?

this 27 T touring? too bad they dont do the XR-6 instead. i could use some fenders!

ive got a stack of these, most i picked up cheap because the body had been crushed in the crapo testors box. only one was a cabriolet though, and that one was fine, most were the coupes. so beware when you buy these sight unseen, its very easy to crush the body and break the windsheld posts. there are so many parts packed in there its almost impossible to repackage it after youve fondled the plastic! even if the posts are crushed, in many of (my, anyway) cases they can just be glued together easily. but a couple of my bodies actually had the rear window body area crushed and broken which is a bit harder to fix. at that point though you can chop off the top altogether and make an scca racer or something. anyway its a challenge to build, ive only ever built the motor:

>I pinned the part that holds the spoiler to the trunk I have not made the holes on the trunk itself >so hopefully I won't mees it up!!!! yeah i did the same thing and in the same order. i was worried about drilling the holes in the trunk lid too but it came out nice. yours is looking great, looking forward to seeing it in the under glass section!

future is your friend. your multipurpose friend. seriously. use it as a glass-clearer, a barrier to super glue "fog", a small-space gloss finish applier, a decal-protector, a small part and window attacher and just one dip in it as described above will pretty much negate any small scratches or smudges or what have you. and if you spill it on the floor it makes it look nice too! who woulda thunk it?

i much prefer posting the photos here. its much easier than clicking on a link and having another window open before you even see if the image is something you want to look at. posting here you get a small preview photo and only need to open another window to see an enlargement. thats my opinion anyway...

>YIKES! You superglue trim pieces to a painted body? well, no, actually, i dont build kits with big old chrome strips to glue to the body! i didnt mean little trim pieces, i typically use future to hold those, i meant like big chrome side trim pieces. >**COUGH-TRUMPETER-COUGHCOUGH** exactly. but if they do have a positive contact system for mounting even long trim, then no problemo. i just tense up anytime i have to get any kind of glue near a finished body...

>solder instead of solid wire shouldn't have a "memory". thats something i need to remember for next time!!! thanks!

>I've started using electrical wire for the same use recently. heres something to watch out for: on my recently completed Big Tub, i replaced the plastic radiator hoses with more realistic looking rubber tubing, and to keep the tubing from kinking i used some 10 gauge solid core electrical wire inside. it had to form a fairly tight "s" to get from the motor outlet to the radiator top cover. and of course i wanted the angle between the radiator shell and the motor and body to be "just so"...and so it was. until i looked at it the next day. i could hardly believe my eyes. the wire inside the rubber tubing had tried to straighten out and had pushed the top of the rad shell forward, completely destroying the look i wanted. and i had epoxied the brace, radiator core and frame together for strength and the only way that rad shell was getting back to the desired position was with a saw blade and some major heroics, and i just wasnt up for that. as it is, it looks ok, but just ok. so the point is, watch out for rebound with electrical wire, even solid core wire. it works great until the bends get too tight and then it might not ... though probably on a roll bar tucked away in a closed interior you would not notice the distortion.

yes i was just going to add that ive been using those magnets on slot cars for the past few years and there are some incredibly strong, small magnets available. like mr moto says, ive just seen some very tiny, maybe 1/8 diameter by about 1/16 or less deep circular magnets that would be perfect for this application. they are strong enough to go through a finger like the photo above, but they are about 1/10th the size. im going to have to remember this tip! seems like it would be useful for a lot of things including keeping a removable body fixed down to its chassis.

i think that battered look you sound like you want to fix should stay. it really makes it look like distressed metal. you probably did in plastic what one really does in metal to do that weld there, and all those marks there look like the tool marks they probably are! anyway it looks great but personally i would think about keeping the beat look as it is...

i dont really recall this car and its separate chrome from any earlier incarnation from my youth, but in my experience separate chrome strips for the sides never really worked out too well. unless there were very positive mounting pins and hidden glue-points, i would always mess up the mounting of strips like that. >The chances of messing up a finished body go up the more that body is handled ah but for me the chances of messing up a finished body go WAY more up when you have to get glue near it. the times ive tried applying separate side trim after finishing the body, it invariably ends up with glue (typically super glue) somehow either oozing out under the trim, or slight adjustments making marks on the finish, and often have led to tragedy as the trajectory of a thrown body is researched on its way from my hand to the dustbin. ahem. so, much as i dislike bmf, i think i would prefer my shaky hand on a knife blade than waving around a super-glue laden long thin piece of plastic! maybe its just me though...

hi marcos, that looks great so far and with the right stance will look like its ready to clean up the contest table! but i notice something that ive faced myself. ive only done one car with a modern body kit (the garage defender nissan silvia) but that body kit was *way* off fitting the body without mods. i ended up half molding it into the body, had to lengthen the side pieces and narrow the front air dam, build up some areas to match the lines of the body, a lot of mods. then again on the real cars those kits typically dont fit worth a d*mn either! so i notice on your photo of holding up the rear panel to the painted body...kind of looks off like mine did, though i cant really see well. are those panels going to fit on? did you mod them before now and just dont show a photo of the work in process? i assume from your other builds that youre not going to be happy with it not looking right, i sure know i couldnt with the silvia. anyway great looks so far, i will be interested in seeing how that body kit fits or what mods you have to do to the body. i have that kit as well and if its easier than that silvia was it might bubble up higher in the "get it done" queue!

thanks for the feedback! >I like the fender tip paint accents. yeah me too...the scallop pattern is raised on the fenders so its just begging for some accenting. the paintwork there looks better the further away from it you are... hey i didnt want to hijack the thread you (old hermit) posted that flip nose 32 in, so i didnt post there, but where did you get those halibrand looking front wheels and tires? cast them yourself? i could definatley use a set or two of those!

it took me a second to realize what you were saying, but when i did, i bet youre right: that wing is on there to use as a push bar to get it unstuck (and it probably gets stuck regularly).still its a hilarious pic.

wasnt the avengers the one with john steed and emma peel? she drove an elan i believe.

did i miss something?

really nice job! that looks like a perfect stance and great build quality! i would like to dig out my tamiya lotus 47 (europa) and also the lotus 25 and start in on a lotus run.

i just use simple html image tags around the http of where the photo is hosted. in other words, enclose the complete website address with [ i m g ] on the beginning and [ / i m g ] on the end. you have to remove the spaces to make it work...i put spaces in there so the screen youre looking at wouldnt think i was trying to post an image. i know there is a tool here for uploading and posting photos but i never learned it. i host my photos elsewhere (photoshack) and then just point to them from this site. hope that helps, pm me if you want me to clarify anything...

ah so this "new" kit is the old metal body monogram with a plastic body? thanks just saved me 30$ i would guess!

bob downie hit the nail on the head regarding tamiya: you have to shoot it with confidence, especially out of the can. its amazing the number of times ive thought oh ###### i just hit it too heavy on my wet coat and went away convinced i would need to strip and repaint (not an easy proposition with tamiya ive found). much to my surprise when i returned an hour later the paint looked great and didnt sag as i feared. imo pretty much anything with the name tamiya on it is A1 quality and quite possibly the best youre going to find...but also probably the most expensive youre gonna find. funny how that equation seems to pop up much of the time.

so thats kinda like ending a story with: "and then i woke up and realized it had all been a dream" just admit it: youre so busted!

thanks raul, im pretty sure i would recognize you if i saw you and yeah be sure to drop by (and bring some micro bolt heads for me to buy!) thanks for the comments too, seriously, and let me address them: >1) The exhaust end of the header pipe looks a bit too thick. I would take an X-ACTO or a drill bit >and open it up just a little bit; yeah i agree and the more i looked at it the more i agree! it was a solid pipe to begin with, from the lindberg t bucket, and i drilled it out. but i agree, it/they could use some more honing out, and its certainly more than possible still...so by the weekend that will probably be done. in my defense though, i was happy with making the exhaust headers look like they were made crudely out of backyard steel tubing and hence thick, but i do agree they would look better more to a scale gauge. >2) For a model this big, I would probably add some sort of bolt detail to the header flanges. yep again agreed. let me tell you how it ended up as it is, like i said i borrowed the headers from the lindberg t and drilled them out (and filled the hole where the rear cutout went because i just wanted to use headers). then i matched them up to the motor (duh how about you think ahead a little bill?) and found they didnt even sort of line up with the exhaust ports. so...long story short, decided to put them on that dumb flange piece i made from plastic stock. i thought about detailing it a bit more but by that point it was sort of in the "hope no one notices this" category so the less said the better. that said though, youre absolutely right and i think i will go down to the r/c shop and get some micro hardware and make some studs and nuts. i did incorporate those in numerous other places but dont have any left. i also originally planned to, and probably still will, add some weathering to the body and running gear, but for right now im kind of tired of it monopolizing my workbench and im glad to take a bit of a break to concentrate on a next project (jairus youre in on this one!). so thanks for the suggestions and im reasonably certain that by the NNL they will have been implemented.