Pete J.

I DON'T COLLECT ANYTHING! I'M GOING TO BUILD EACH AND EVERY ONE OF THOSE COUPLE OF HUNDRED UNBUILT KITS. AND ALL THOSE BOOKS ARE JUST FOR REFERANCE WHEN I DO. OH, YEA THE TOOLS. CAN'T DO IT WITHOUT THE TOOLS. HECK NO, I'M NOT A COLLECTOR! I'M A BUILDER! Now how many of you are builders?

Yep, got to agree. Those two items really did it for me.

'69 mustang coupe. Took me years and too much money to get my hands on one. Why, well they converted the mold to the fastback and that was the last of the coupes. I wanted one because it was my first car.

Update: Acetone just dissolved the plastic and left the frikin chrome!!! I've never heard of stuff this tough. The super clean was a fresh new gallon and you are right, I've never see any other chrome stand up to it either but this stuff is just relentless. This stuff must be some kind of metal plating. Well, on to vinegar. Thanks for the suggestions.

I am striping a diecast for repainting and have a problem. The body striped just fine in brake fluid, but the chrome parts are proving to be a very tough nut to crack. I have soaked it overnight in the following: 1) Catrol Super Clean 2) Brake fluid 3) 91% alcohol 4) Bleach 5)Easy off oven cleaner I have even resorted to trying soaking it in Acetone(current soak) and nothing seems to dent this stuff. Any body else any ideas?? This is the toughest stuff I have ever run into.

Very nice builds. They look like you spent a lot of time on them. Those are my favorite models from Tamiya though I have never build one stock. I suppose I should some day. The wagon is such an odd race car but it just begs to be chopped, sectioned and just messed with in general.

This is probably my favorite photo of all my models and it is my screen saver.

I'm going with a model on this one just because the license looks like it has been clear coated over.

Brad - I would like to add one additional thought. In the middle ages and into the early part of the industrial revolution there was a cast system in the trade crafts. As a final test to be labeled a master craftsman, the applicant had to create a piece to display all of his skills. This was presented to the guild and if it met with the guilds approval, the applicant could call themselves a Master Craftsman. This is the origins of the word masterpiece. It was not necessarily highly functional, but it was always taken to the highest level possible. I try to create a masterpiece occasionally just because I can, but for the most part my stuff never makes it to that level. The difference is as Drew has suggested, lots of stuff just not put on or painted. If you can't see it, don't mess with it. But every once in a while, just to satisfy your sole build a masterpiece with all the nuts, bolts and wires. It will do you good both ways. Enjoy yourself!

I've always believed that you can't have too much detail. The question is why are you doing it. For me, it is the fun of doing the difficult. I have been known to do a bit of over the top stuff, but I did it because I love the challenge. Yes, it did get put on the contest table, but that wasn't really the original intent. It was to do best build I could pull off. I really like to see people look at one of my models and get drawn in. First glance is a "Hey, this is nice." followed by a "Oh, I didn't see that." to a "How the heck did he do that?". Here are a couple of examples of "probably a little too much". I know that most judges would just never see them, but I know they are there and it matter to me. Now if you are building for the judges, that is difficult. Visible to the naked eye, comes to mind. If you can't see it without magnification, then you have gone to far. Also, keep in mind that detail doesn't mean squat, if the basics aren't there. I have seen too many models on the table with a ton of detail and a lousy paint job. Don't get killed by the elephants while you are trying to stomp out the ants.

It really doesn't matter what you get if you follow some simple rules. 1. Buy a name brand:Badger, Iwata, Tamiya, Paache or Grex. All the others are knockoffs of their designs and the quality control can be very spotty. This is a precision instrument and getting the best will never disappoint you. 2. Get a double action. They can be set to use like a single action when you start and when you have learned how to use the double action it will be helpful in doing fades. It is very difficult to make a single action do what a double action does with ease. 3. Get one with a Teflon seal. If you are going to spray lacquers you will need it or the brush will not last long. 4. Get one that feels good in your hand. Very important. Trigger positions and weight are a big factor in how the brush feels and how easy it is for you to use. 5. Check disassembly. The easier it is to disassemble, the easier it is to clean. This is a precision instrument and cleaning is critical. I suggest one with a removable paint cup. It lets you get down inside of the brush with a cotton swab to clean it. 6. If a brush comes with extra tips and needles that is good for different paints but not a real requirement. If you are trying to paint bodies, a wide tip is best. If you want detail than a fine tip would be the choice. 7. Go to an convention if you can. The various distributors will be there and you can get a chance to use it with paint. 8. Good luck and don't let the sweet taste of a bargain be soured by a poor quality piece. A bargain airbrush is only a bargain if it works well

It really doesn't matter what you get if you follow some simple rules. 1. Buy a name brand:Badger, Iwata, Tamiya, Paache or Grex. All the others are knockoffs of their designs and the quality control can be very spotty. This is a precision instrument and getting the best will never disappoint you. 2. Get a double action. They can be set to use like a single action when you start and when you have learned how to use the double action it will be helpful in doing fades. It is very difficult to make a single action do what a double action does with ease. 3. Get one with a Teflon seal. If you are going to spray lacquers you will need it or the brush will not last long. 4. Get one that feels good in your hand. Very important. Trigger positions and weight are a big factor in how the brush feels and how easy it is for you to use. 5. Check disassembly. The easier it is to disassemble, the easier it is to clean. This is a precision instrument and cleaning is critical. I suggest one with a removable paint cup. It lets you get down inside of the brush with a cotton swab to clean it. 6. If a brush comes with extra tips and needles that is good for different paints but not a real requirement. If you are trying to paint bodies, a wide tip is best. If you want detail than a fine tip would be the choice. 7. Go to an convention if you can. The various distributors will be there and you can get a chance to use it with paint. 8. Good luck and don't let the sweet taste of a bargain be soured by a poor quality piece. A bargain airbrush is only a bargain if it works well.

These of any use to you?

Thought you might like a peek at the real deal.

Gerald Windgrove is the only one that really stands out in my mind. Does everything from scratch and builds exact replicas that are almost impossible to identify from photos.

Bought this kit a long time ago. I guess I should pull it out and build it. Kind of waiting until I got my lathe. I never liked the spokes. They are out of scale and wanted to turn the nipples so I could do a better job. Well, I guess I am out of excuses for not building it. Thanks for the inspiration. Incidentally there was a Porsche version also.

I love the wood chopper. The other bike looks like a model to me. To much gloss on the seat. Not a fan but I guess it is cool in someones eyes.

One question. Why would you buy them from secondary sources when you can buy them directly from the manufacture? Here is the web site for the company that makes the stuff. http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=272_4_75_81

Harry - Have David Sorensen(Gregg's friend in Hawaii) send you photos of his. It really looks good. As to why would you? I ask you why wouldn't you. To me building is aways about the next challenge. Can I do the next hardest thing I have done. For me it is all about the challenge. Matter of perspective I suppose.

Female, early 20's, northern European. Oh, you ment the car!

Mark - I track the Gunze kits as there are a couple I would like to have and the GTO will typically go for around $90 to $100, which I really don't get, just because it is not that rare of a kit. It seems like there is always one or two at any given time. I don't know? Just a preference thing I guess. Pete PS - Gongrat's on picking up the Resin column. Can't think of a better person to do it.

Aw Geez Harry - This is about as tough as it gets! Common car, well done regardless of real or model. Nothing in the shadows or reflections to give it away. Great pick. I gotta guess real.

Not far off from my tag line.

Here is a method that I have used before and it is a bit trickier, but it works well with a little care. 1) Cover the script or badges with BMF and burnish is down well. 2) Cover the BMF with a thick layer of white glue. I like to use micro scales Krystal Klear. 3) After the glue dries, coat it with putty so you can get a good grip on the whole blob of stuff. 4) Pull it off of the model. The adhesive on the BMF will let go pretty easily. If you leave an edge of BMF beyond the glue and putty, you can start by lifting that. 5) Fill the back side of the BMF with super glue and let it harden. 6) With a fine file or sanding stick, sand or file the back flat and sand away the BMF until all you have left is the script embedded in the white glue. 7) Soak the whole thing in warm to hot water to dissolve the white glue. Once that dissolves you will have a "chrome" BMF script which can then be reapplied after the model is built and painted. This also works well to move script or badges that are in the wrong position or that you need for another car. Good luck!

I would have to say that is it a funtion more of the kit than the builder If you get a well enough produced kit, building it out of the box can be a great challenge to any builder. Of course you really need to like the subject as well. If the kit is ######, then it begs to be corrected. If the kit is correct, then there is less of a tendancy to modify the build. Then there are some things that you just can't keep your hands off of.