Pete J.

I was unable to make GSL due to health issues. Some friends have told me that the models on the tables are just mind blowing. I would appreciate some one posting some good photos!

Peter, I believe that perfection is attainable, in effort, not results. The craftsman who has put forward their best effort has attained perfection for the day, even though their outcome may not be. Yes, the end product is a sliding scale, but best effort never changes even though the skill level does. Each of us has their own perfect experience. If you sit down to have some fun building a model and you do that to the best of your effort, what is sitting on the table in the end is irrelevant. You maximized your fun. Perfect! We are often so blinded by concern over what others think of our end product that we fail to contemplate what we did. For me personally, perfection is using a new technique or process on each model. Others may not like the outcome but that is focusing on someone else judging your end result. Focus on your internal voices. How do you feel about effort? This goes along with the old saying, it is the journey and not the destination. If your destination is perfection, no, you will never get there, but you can have a hell of a journey and have a thousand perfect moments. on the way.

We hear a lot about the "perfect" model being unobtainable. I heard a quote tonight that really resonates with me. It came from the show Craftsman's Legacy. "Perfection is doing the best you can do today" I think this really sums up the reasons and technique that everyone builds model. Comments?

I agree, except for the handle. Too skinny and it seems to roll from side to side. I use a larger pin vise. Seems to give me better control.

For sections crossing the boundaries of material types I recommend a good set of photo etched saws and a straightedge to get the groove started then scribe from there. I have been using Hasegawas saws for a long time. They have several different types that vary in thickness and tpi. Very adaptable. This is the fine set and yes they have teeth. You just have to look very closely. http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/hsite/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/tp4pk_th.gif

I agree with the Tamiya scribing tool. That tool is too big and clunky, but don't mistake the Tamiya engraving tools for the same thing. Entirely different tool! They offer blades from .5 mm down to .1 mm. I use them with a pin vise

In answer to your question, no, there is no "easy" way to do this. Rescribbing or for that matter, scribing new panel lines takes time, patience and a steady hand. I have several tools all of which work well in a given situation. I love the Tamiya engraving tools, but they are darned expensive .Expensive is an understatement each blade retails for about $35. The advantage it that they are very sharp and cut a square bottom slot. They also come in a variety of widths from .5mm down to .1mm. They can be had for as little at $17 from overseas suppliers. If you get these, forget the tamiya handle and use a good pinvise. The knurling on the pin vise makes for a better grip. Patients and practice. Only way to get them done. https://www.tamiyausa.com/search/?q=engraving

I'd like to see what a modern computer looks like after 2000 years immersed in salt water. My guess is this looks pretty good my comparison. Here is a series of a forensic machinist recreating the antikythera using ancient tools and techniques from the time. Super interesting watch(8 episodes). If you haven't the time, then it is best if you don't go down that rabbit hole.

David, I took my first course in computers at the University if Wyoming in 1967. They had a Philco 2000 and punch cards were required. Hated proofing cards. The 0 and O were about as similar as they are here. All programs were run over night. One morning I went by to pickup my printout and found a brown bag with my name on it, sitting on the shelf. Inside was a mess of folded and shredded punch cards. Apparently the card reader had a nervous breakdown. A months worth of work in the trash! Later we got punch tape. I thought that was great because you didn't have to carry around boxes of cards!

Forgot about them, but there stuff in definitely, top of the heap, good.

I saw a Sunday morning episode on Tom Hanks and he is a collector or old manual typewriters.

I have a drawer full of Starrett tools and have a bit more of a frugal way to get them. Starrett has a refurbishment program that you can send any Starrett tool back to the factory and they will rebuild it for you to factory precision specs. You can't buy refurbished tools from them. That is just the way they roll, but they will rebuild yours at a reasonable cost. How do I do this? Well I comb eBay for what I want and find one with reasonable quality and price and ship it off. It takes about a month but you get a "new" tool back. Last tool I did this with was a 6" height gauge. I paid $50 for it online. Starrett charged me $100 to rebuild it and I have a fully funtioning tool for far less than the $500+ cost of a new one and it will last me forever.

..... and then there are machinist pin vises. When Starrett makes it, it is the best you can buy. Not very many of us need them this good! https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/s162z

What I find interesting an annoying is that the cheap plastic pieces that break and are intended to be tossed, will live for 1,000 years in the land fill or our oceans. Dumb!!

You bought the right pin vice from Tamiya. It has a good rubberized grip and four different sized collets. Good feel in the hand. I am lazy and own 5 of them. One for each collet size and one because my early ones didn't have the rubber grip. As to bits, I agree with Bill. You get what you pay for. I get mine from MSC or McMaster-Carr. I like the carbide ones as they will stay sharp for a good long while. I also buy the japanese ones from Kyocera. But then I use them in my mill for accurate drilling of brass and aluminum. If you are just punching a hole in plastic that may not be necessary. If you look at different companies bits, you will find the the tips can be everything from finely ground to just kind of looking like a bit. You get what you pay for.

Gunze Sangyo includes the FS# on both their Mr. Color and Mr. Hobby paints. Mr. Color is solvent based(lacquer) and Mr. Hobby is water based(acrylic).

Mark, looks like it is almost road worthy! Great build. If that doesn't take GSL, someone has a 6" driver who runs out, jumps in the car and drives off!

They use to say that a cluttered desk is the sign of a cluttered mind. I always replied " so what is an empty desk a sign of?"?

New addition to my work bench from Herman Miller. Expensive but my aching back says it is a great choice!

Interesting point. My guess would be that they change it to "where appropriate" or "if no number, proof that is raced in that configuration".

If you are planning on going to IPMS Nat's this year, REVIEW the categories for automotive. They have changed! I and several others have been working for 7 years get actual definitions for all categories. They finally accepted them with some modifications. Review them in the National contest rules. https://ipmsusa.org/sites/default/files/2023_ipms-usa_national_contest_rules.pdf The changes are highlighted in red. I feel that the change will make the categories much more understandable. Read the rules before you go. This will help both you and the judging committee. Enjoy the show.

Always loved Dakar when it was more of an ameture event, before the really big money got involved. If you like that, you would love the Peking to Paris, vintage race. https://www.endurorally.com/events/the-7th-peking-to-paris-motor-challenge/ Lots of old cars on a huge endurance rally. We have our own thread and believe me, you cars would be wildly accepted there!

"Etchings" ?

Saw this model in person last night. Photos don't do it justice. The blue color will just blow you away and the detail work in immaculate. Mark says this is a labor of love and I believe it! This one is special. Thanks for bringing to the club last night Mark!