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Straightliner59

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Posts posted by Straightliner59

  1. 6 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

    Thanks Daniel and Andrew!  I separated them on the mill (oriented 90 degrees) with a .030" end mill.  They are a bit on the thick side, but I still wanted to keep them thick enough so that the pins would stay straight and parallel after soldering.  I have several sizes and thicknesses of Sherline slitting saws but I hate using them, I'm always afraid that they will come apart and fly from one end of my work room to the other... or in my face! 🥶

    You're always welcome, my friend! The end mill makes perfect sense. Thank you, for that!

    • Like 1
  2. 16 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

    I waited years before taking the plunge into EBay land. It's a learning experience but by being patient and careful there are good opportunities out there. One thing I have noticed is that shipping from EU to Canada is usually cheaper and faster than US to Canada. Doesn't make sense...

    I agree, about some deals to be had. If you're looking for a particular kit, "save" the search, and check it frequently! A couple of years ago, I picked up a beautiful example of a Monogram California Street Vette for quite a bit less than their going rate, because somebody posted one in the middle of the night, with a great "Buy It Now" price. I jumped on it! I just got a clean rebuilder of the same kit, just the other day, for about $40, shipped, for the same reason. Any day, now, I should have a set of four (A, B, C and D) Starrett pin vises that I got for about $45, shipped. If you're diligent, patient, and realistic, you can get some very nice deals on Ebay!

    • Like 1
  3. Everybody's defined it, as I have always understood it, as well. I've built a few of each, and find them to be a nice diversion from superdetailed models, and, often, test beds for future projects. The Firebird is a slammer, and the Vega a curbside. I experimented with the lights, on these, and the aluminum interior, in the Vega, just to develop/hone those skills. I learned, that. Even in a slammer, printed window netting looks horrible!😁

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  4. 16 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    Pository on the upholstery in gassers, minimum two seats and door panels, but lightweight f'glass buckets could be substituted.

    Far as engine setback goes, IIRC it was 10% of wheelbase allowed on gassers, 20% on altereds, measured at the front spark plug hole...at least I'm sure it was 20% on M/SP cars, which were eventually absorbed into altered classes.

    Links to actual period rules are posted at the top of this very forum heading.

     

    I thought I was remembering that correctly, but, I like to couch my words, because it makes it easier to get my foot out of my mouth, if I wasn't!😁 

    I was working on a MP '70 Chevelle ('75 rules). Those seats could be swapped out, but, they had to be from the same manufacturer as the car. I replaced the Chevelle seats with a pair from a Vega. That project died when I realized that I was essentially converting an AMT '70 Chevelle to a Revell '70 Chevelle! 

    I've been through those rulebook files, quite a lot! They're very handy to have. I think I have pdfs of them, in this machine, somewhere.

    • Like 1
  5. 9 hours ago, mk11 said:

    Don't think this will improve your outlook any... now I'm hearing that the purchase price is withheld by the site until they have proof of delivery. Wow.

    Won't this warm the hearts of those that have had the splendid experience of tracking their items through six or seven states before they finally arrive  :blink:

    I recently had a purchase from the west coast track from California, through Utah, into Denver--great, just as it should have! Then, it sat for two days, before, instead of being sent to my local PO, it went to Atlanta, where it shuttled back and forth between a couple of terminals, before FINALLY being returned to Denver, and on, to me. 😅 Wow, folks! That's efficient!

    • Thanks 1
    • Confused 1
  6. On 3/20/2024 at 9:32 AM, Ace-Garageguy said:

    This build would most likely fall into a "gasser" class, if it has minimum required "street" equipment like lights, etc., and depending on the year you want to represent. Specific class is determined by engine displacement, whether or not it's supercharged, and vehicle weight.

    Or, if you want to run a gutted interior, and a little more setback on the engine, it could be an altered class racer. That's what I'm doing with a Badman, because I want to do an aluminum interior, and gassers had to run full upholstery, if I recall, correctly.

    • Like 1
  7. 9 hours ago, tim boyd said:

    Quite frankly, I am amazed that more hasn't been made over the quality and accuracy of the chassis and suspension parts in this Atlantis kit.  While they date back to the 1963 Revell Parts Packs, some of these parts (example: hairpin radius rods) are among the finest and most accurate parts ever found in a 1/25th scale kit.  To me they are almost mandatory for a state-of-the-art top end early drag or 1960s era hot rod build....TB 

    I agree, completely. The front wheels in the 22Jr. and 22Jr. Roadster kit are easily the best dragster fronts ever kitted! Same for the early Hemi in the Miss Deal kit. The parts pack Dragster Chassis is a dead replica of the chassis Fuller and Ivo built for TV's first dragster. And, as you mentioned, the ancillary parts are excellent, as well! Any of these parts pack-based kits are "hoard-worthy"!

    • Like 3
  8. 17 hours ago, Force said:

    Rick and I discussed this quite some time ago and I found the thing he uses, it's a kind of thin black round elastic rubber core cord found at the sewing supplies department.
    You can use grey or white, just paint it the color you want.

    Thanks, Hakan. I will begin a search, for it. It looks excellent!

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