Straightliner59
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Posts posted by Straightliner59
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My next project will be fixing up my side cutters! I really enjoy advanced stuff, like drawing wire, etc.
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On 2/18/2024 at 6:11 AM, tim boyd said:
Dan....my profound kudos on your project.. I have long thought that the modern-day nostalgia front engine rail dragsters would make a great subject for a model project, but yours is the first one i recall seeing executed to this level of precision and realism. And your quality of workmanship is superb! Finally, how did you do the panel inserts on the body? You have every reason to be immensely proud of your accomplishment here! TIM
Thanks, Tim. They really are cool-looking dragsters! I sincerely appreciate your kind words, regarding my project.
By "inserts" are you referring to where the panels overlap? If so, it took me a while to figure out how to accomplish that, satisfactorily. I ended up doing it like this:
I cut brass strip to my desired "profile", smoothed it, and superglued it to the jaws of a sheet metal hand brake. I then aligned and taped the sheet into position, and laid the tool on my biggest anvil and gave it a rap with the ballpeen hammer. It worked out very well!
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On 2/18/2024 at 10:00 AM, ColonelKrypton said:
Of course your well stocked local industrial supplier would or at least should have as well.
A while back, I ordered some AWG-sized bits (for my domed set) on Ebay. When I received them, they'd been shipped from a place right around the corner from my work!😅 Next time, I will just walk over there before work, some day.
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On 2/18/2024 at 5:39 AM, ColonelKrypton said:
I think the same thing when I see the name Gyros.
Apparently, at least according to their web site https://gyrostools.com/index.php/ Gyros Quality Miniature Tools and Accessories has been round since 1921.
cheers, Graham
Yep, they've been around, forever! I have a couple of their small pinvises that I use more than any others, when the bits are small enough. I'm sure I have a lot of their tools around the shop.
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14 hours ago, peteski said:
Sure, that is true for trophy-whores (yes I also said that), but model building should be done for your own enjoyment, so as far as I can see, everything goes.
Absolutely! If you're not enjoying it, there's no point to any of this (unless it's your profession). I have known several people who seemed to build mostly for competition. At least half of them don't build, anymore, claiming burnout. I can't even comprehend that.
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3 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Mighty tasty...but how do you drill a hole with one??
I use those to fill a hole!😁
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I've had good luck with Gyros, for many, many years. They're readily available, too.
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2 hours ago, ColonelKrypton said:
the size of the part ( i.e. diameter if round ) is set by whatever punch tool you use to make your disc. You could use a simple 1/4" paper punch or round hole or leather punches (as seen in the first post of this topic) or you could even use a jewellers disc cutter ( often from about 3mm up in size in 1mm steps )
The curvature given to your disc is made from using the dapping block. You do not need to use the 5mm size depression for a 5mm diameter disc. For example, you could impart a shallow curvature by using the 20mm or 30mm size depression with your 5mm disc - smaller depression greater the curvature to your piece, larger depression the shallower your curvature.
These dapping blocks are quite handy. I have cast resin in one to make parts, even made some bits using heated sprue pushed into one of the depressions.
Moon discs are quite easily made too - a 15mm ( or whatever size suits your needs ) aluminum disc, dapped into one of the larger depressions ( i.e. 35mm, 40mm, or 45mm ) and voila, a nice moon disc.
You don't the matching dapping punches although they are handy and easy to use, you can use ball bearings of the appropriate size as well.
cheers, Graham
When I first saw it, I knew that, it might be handy to have around. Turns out, I use it much more frequently than I'd imagined! And, you're correct--its possibilities are greatly expanded by interchanging disc size with punch and depression size. Here's a shot of the tools I have. In case anybody's wondering--insulin syringes are excellent tools for applying liquid cement!
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3 hours ago, peteski said:
Thanks Daniel, that clarifies things. I thought you were placing flat piece of aluminum over the surface of the female die, then pressing it into the depression using the male part of the die. Kind of what you would when punching the metal in a regular punch/die set. That also answers my subsequent question about trimming the finished reflector out of the flat sheet - there is nothing to trim. Now it is all clear.
Using this technique you are limited to the sizes available in a doming set. Do those provide proper sizes for headlights which would be replacing kit's solid headlights drilled out of the grille of many older kits (or promos) where the headlight was integral part of the grille? Judging by the photos you posted, the answer is yes, close enough.
Yes, definitely. My block set has 24 holes/dies from 2.3mm-24mm. I think I found it at HF. The block is a cube, as opposed to the rectangular shape of Allan's, above. It really makes for a nice set of headlights.
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14 minutes ago, CA Whitecloud said:
What is Curbside? Same as Out Of Box, or no?
Curbside is a model that's built so that you only see what you see, when a real car is sitting "by the curb". No engine (except for parts protruding from the hood), no chassis detail. I generally add some detail to the interior, as well as details to tires and wheels, headlights, turn signals and taillights, master power switches for drag racers, etc. I enjoy building them.. ...
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On 2/13/2024 at 6:48 PM, peteski said:
That is a great tip.
So the aluminum does not wrinkle during the doming process? How do you punch them out (or does the doming process already do that)?
Since I told him about the doming block, I can answer this. I use a punch of the proper size for the headlight, from a set I bought at Harbor Freight. I drop the resulting disc into the chosen "dimple" in the doming block, and use the proper die, for the size. They dome, smoothly. It's the best method for making headlights I've discovered. You could even melt a ball onto a bit of clear, stretched sprue, and put an element in it. That's how I did the Vega and Chevy II, above. I did rectangular headlights for my Monza, by building a little box from strip styrene, and burnishing the foil into it, to dish it. That was a tip that was provided me by Steve Milberry. For aluminum sheet, I use Maid-O-Metal tooling aluminum available at HL.
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Yep! Going to be giving this a look! Thanks for sharing! I've seen the cans, but never given it a try.
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8 hours ago, Tabbysdaddy said:
They take a different type of glue, but as long as it still gets me high I'm okay with that.
Here in Colorado, we have legal things for that, that are much safer!😁 The containers are very handy, as well!
I have nothing at all against 3-D printed models. I'd echo what others have said: It's another tool in the box, or another path up the mountain. There are some parts I wouldn't bother trying to do, anymore, due to the superiority of 3-D prints. Carburetors, are a start. Fireball's carbs are unbelievably beautifully detailed. I wouldn't even mess with any others, much less try to build one. While I am certain it could be done, it's not worth the time, or effort. The transformer for the magneto of my Nostalgia Top Fuel car has close to 30 pieces, in it. I am happy with it, but, it's not anywhere close to what a 3-D printer could achieve.
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I should have mentioned two-part glazing putty. I forgot it, because I don't do enough custom bodywork to have to use it, very often.
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I use super glue and micro balloons, mostly, especially on smaller areas. I also like Milliput, for larger areas, because it can be shaped with a dampened finger. Some guys like super glue with baking soda, but, I think it's too hard, and doesn't sand away as fast as the plastic.
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13 hours ago, Bainford said:
After seeing this model several times now, it never fails to impress. You have captured the raw, all-business vibe of these things perfectly. An excellent example of fine model building.
Thank you, Trevor. I appreciate that!
12 hours ago, tim boyd said:Obviously, I missed this one first time around...thanks for pulling it forward. What a great model! Big congrats Daniel! TB
Thanks, Tim! That means a lot, to me!
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10 hours ago, MADmodelDOCTOR said:
This is freaking awesome build, and I still love those Enderle's
Thank you, Kenneth! Those Enderles were a pain! I wasn't going to build a junior fueler without them, though.
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Glad that worked, for you! I've been using it, for years. I usually use lenses from my parts boxes.
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I use Tropical Shine nail boards. I get them at Sally Beauty Supply, or via Ebay. I use their black, blue and pink boards, and their four-way polishing board. They're washable, and salon quality, so they have a pretty long life.
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On 2/10/2024 at 4:12 AM, ChrisR said:
Awesome, especially the detailing on the engine!
Thanks, Chris!
5 hours ago, ybsluos said:Dan,
what can I say that hasn’t already been said? Absolutely unbelievable workmanship and kudos to you for being patient until your skills were good enough to do all the steps on this build.
It’s a great tribute to your dad and your friends as well. I talked to Don Fahrni on the phone a couple times in the early 2000s and he was a great guy and amazing builder.-Mark
I appreciate that, Mark. I always knew I would get back to this, one day. I wasn't sure when.
Yes, that's exactly the kind of guy Don was--if you really were interested in how to do something, he had time for you. He truly built some incredible stuff!
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I am sitting here with a smile on my face! Such a beautiful bit of work, my friend!
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A Turbonique axle looks to be a pretty simple scratchbuild.
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I hate the junk! There, I said it.
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Like Bill said, the more tools (and supplies) the better! I have a dozen different pin vises, about a thousand carbide PC board bits of various sizes, and a couple of drill bit sets and the iconic #61-#80 dome and a bunch of backups, for those. I hate needing something, and discovering that I don't have it!😃
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Nostalgia Top Fuel Dragster
in Drag Racing
Posted
@tim boyd I think I misunderstood what you asked me about the inserts. The confusion was on my end, not in any way your fault. Once I had primed the panels, I shot them with a mixture of Humbrol Brass and Humbrol Gold from their standard line, cut with lacquer thinner. I overshot that with Tamiya clear orange lacquer. I then masked off the panel areas with Parafilm M, and sprayed them with cheap Walmart Color Place gloss black, straight from the can. Once I'd removed the masks, I dabbed the orange panels with Black Sign Painter's One-Shot, thinned a little with mineral spirits, applied with a torn off bit of natural sponge. Finally, I applied the red borders with One-Shot.