Jon Haigwood

Any place carry 1/8th scale Engine Pullies ? Some resin parts do not do well in shipping.

Being new to Large scale I bought a 1/8th Golden T kit off Ebay. (not this one,) Turns out it is a Double kit. Box contained two of everything.

My interests are hot Rods, So far I have 1/16 Lindberg Serpent and Bull Horn T and the Revell 34 Phaeton and 34 3 window coupe . I have been watching the 1/8 Golden T on ebay but not sure of the price at $270, nothing to compare it with. I have been buying the engines from Texas 3D customs and tires and wheels from 3D Scale Parts. Are these the only sources of aftermarket parts ? I never build anything out of the box. So far I haven't paid over $40 for a kit

Any preferred places to buy large scale kits and aftermarket parts.?

MCW Paints carries all the Cobra colors by name.

Good information, Thanks for posting

Movie car from "National Lampoons Salt Flats Vacation"

You have to do what works for you. My only problem is I cant find anybody that makes separate pulleys in larger scales. I thought about getting a Hobby Lathe and making my own put have no place o set it up.

I appreciate the improved fan belts. Only thing better would be no belts just pulleys. But I know that can't happen. Speaking of your accurate scaling , I purchased a 1/16th for a T Bucket build and it was a wee bit wide for the frame so I purchased another in 1/18th scale. Problem solved As you know I have purchases many engines from you and will continue to do so, Keep up the great work.

Anybody carry aftermarket engine pulleys in large scale (1/16th) ?

Tip" Don't test out the lights by sticking the wires in a 110 wall outlet. Ask me how I know

My first thought was maybe switching them over to LED bulbs ? Ad keeps coming up on my FB page for mini bulbs and switches.

I started with the Bull Horn T with the thought to use the Uncertain T body. I did a bunch of modification to the frame to fit the new body. After reaching a point on doing the Uncertain T on another build in the future I decided to go back to the T Bucket body. In a (unsuccessful ) attempt to un-modify the frame I totally "Botched" it up. Does anyone make a T Bucket frame in 1/16th ? At this point scratch building may be my only choice. Thanks Jon

I seal the glass jars with a latex glove stretched over the top.

I bought a Hyper Tough compressor from Walmart (about $70} It didn't last to long, threw a rod. After doing some research I bought a California (about $159) so far it has been working good.

This is the one I use Goodwill $10. Only one temp but you can change it by the adjusting the height.

Some great looking pictures and good info. Thanks for posting. As of late I have ben toying with using some computer software. My first attempt was on a Salt Flats for a Rolling Bones tribute for a Rolling Bones tribute.

Most of the clogging problem I had was that they clogged inside the can. New nozzles wouldn't help. I ended up decanting and using them in a airbrush A tip for using dehydrator. never put a model in with any type of tape on it. It melts the adhesive into the paint.

Anybody tried the Chrome Powder ?

looks great, but I like to place mine in the correct firing order in the right rotation. But that is just my thing

are the right angle boots printed as part of the distributor ?

I don't use Rust-oleum unless I decant it. I have had to many cans clog up about half way thru them.

I had this problem once and discover the letting it dry in the dehydrator it heated up the tape and left the residue. I use Lime Wire and 3M 471 for the edges and Tamiya to cover the rest. Won't find them at Walmart. Nothing with tape goes in the dehydrator.

I am going to do some spoon trials with MCW , Createx Auto Borne sealer and some Duplicover (as mentioned above) primers and treat it like my regular process. I will steel wool the spoons first. I have never had this "chip out" problem before, only with MCW. I am hoping it is just needing better prep work.