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Everything posted by Jon Haigwood
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Being new to Large scale I bought a 1/8th Golden T kit off Ebay. (not this one,) Turns out it is a Double kit. Box contained two of everything.
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My interests are hot Rods, So far I have 1/16 Lindberg Serpent and Bull Horn T and the Revell 34 Phaeton and 34 3 window coupe . I have been watching the 1/8 Golden T on ebay but not sure of the price at $270, nothing to compare it with. I have been buying the engines from Texas 3D customs and tires and wheels from 3D Scale Parts. Are these the only sources of aftermarket parts ? I never build anything out of the box. So far I haven't paid over $40 for a kit
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Any preferred places to buy large scale kits and aftermarket parts.?
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Bit of T Cut would sort this…
Jon Haigwood replied to Earl Marischal's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Movie car from "National Lampoons Salt Flats Vacation" -
You have to do what works for you. My only problem is I cant find anybody that makes separate pulleys in larger scales. I thought about getting a Hobby Lathe and making my own put have no place o set it up.
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I appreciate the improved fan belts. Only thing better would be no belts just pulleys. But I know that can't happen. Speaking of your accurate scaling , I purchased a 1/16th for a T Bucket build and it was a wee bit wide for the frame so I purchased another in 1/18th scale. Problem solved As you know I have purchases many engines from you and will continue to do so, Keep up the great work.
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Anybody carry aftermarket engine pulleys in large scale (1/16th) ?
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I started with the Bull Horn T with the thought to use the Uncertain T body. I did a bunch of modification to the frame to fit the new body. After reaching a point on doing the Uncertain T on another build in the future I decided to go back to the T Bucket body. In a (unsuccessful ) attempt to un-modify the frame I totally "Botched" it up. Does anyone make a T Bucket frame in 1/16th ? At this point scratch building may be my only choice. Thanks Jon
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Storing decanted paint
Jon Haigwood replied to fordf-100's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I seal the glass jars with a latex glove stretched over the top. -
Anybody tried the Chrome Powder ?
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What would YOU like to see as a model
Jon Haigwood replied to JeroenM3's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
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looks great, but I like to place mine in the correct firing order in the right rotation. But that is just my thing
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are the right angle boots printed as part of the distributor ?
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Taking bets on Rust-Oleum / Testors paint.
Jon Haigwood replied to Toast's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I don't use Rust-oleum unless I decant it. I have had to many cans clog up about half way thru them. -
Tape Residue Frustration
Jon Haigwood replied to That Plasticated Guy's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I had this problem once and discover the letting it dry in the dehydrator it heated up the tape and left the residue. I use Lime Wire and 3M 471 for the edges and Tamiya to cover the rest. Won't find them at Walmart. Nothing with tape goes in the dehydrator. -
Removing MCW paint ?
Jon Haigwood replied to Jon Haigwood's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I am going to do some spoon trials with MCW , Createx Auto Borne sealer and some Duplicover (as mentioned above) primers and treat it like my regular process. I will steel wool the spoons first. I have never had this "chip out" problem before, only with MCW. I am hoping it is just needing better prep work. -
Looking for the best way to remove MCW paint . I have tried the Purple Pond and it doesn't seem to touch it. The reason I need to remove it is that the primer doesn't stick to the plastic and if I use tape it pulls the paint off when I remove it even Bare-M-Foil will chip the paint off down to bare plastic. Not sure if I need to do more prep work or use a different primer ? I am using MCW primer.