Jon Haigwood

I am new to Splash Paints and need some guidance. I want to paint a car that has some resin parts. I have Oxide Red Primer and Dark Grey Surfacer, what's the difference between a primer and a surfacer ? I have 2K gloss clear, clear thinner, clear activator and catalyst. I can't find any info on how to use these other than the air pressure and needle size. Any guidance would be highly appreciated.

Big thanks for the donations to our Modelfest, it is today and maybe I will be lucky enough to win one.

Didn't see them on his web site. My club puts on a Model Car Fest and he donated some kits

coming soon . thats all I can say

My first thought was 50's Hudson but the except for the headlight eyebrow and the square mirror. The Baby Bird would also have a round mirror. No sure what year they started with the square outside mirrors.

For some reason the front reminds me of a Catfish

From what I remember I used lacquer thinner

I put clear rhinestone's behind the lens

I have used Duplicolor primer decanted in a airbrush with no problem. It may need thinned a bit.

Lately I have been using MCW lacquers. They work well in the airbrush, no reducing needed, dry fast, run resistant and have a great choice of colors. First paint I have found with a Clear Primer

It was $11 in 2019

Thanks Gerry

I would send you the PDF but this page won't allow it

Look at the "files" on this FB page https://www.facebook.com/groups/901280716708640/?hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen&multi_permalinks=1239680576201984

you might look at MCW they have many white variation's https://mcwfinishes.com/shop/ols/products/me2108e-off-white

Sprue Glue . Sprue melted into Tamiya Extra Thin, I also have used Evergreen plastic.

Looking for a easy to use (I am 73 and "Tech-Challenged") Most of my stash is in storage bins and I like to see what I have on hand. Thanks

found this, I only use the lacquers https://mcwfinishes.com/shop/ols/search?keywords=rust&sortOption=descend_by_match

My scores at the Swap meet

No problem in a dehydrator. I have had too many cans clog up and had to decant them. Now I go to the Auto Parts store and buy Dupli-Color

I always use short pieces of boot material and slide them down to the distributer cap , then use a piece of shrink tubing around the middle of the distributer and a short way up the cap boots. When heated it shrinks around the boots and looks more like a distributor cap. And I always use the correct wiring order going in the proper rotation and #1 in the correct location . but that's just me.

this looks close. https://mcwfinishes.com/shop/ols/products/2002-gold

I use Canopy Cement probably the same stuff as Elmers

temp was 60 to 65 degrees

Yes I emailed MCW, Mike wrote in a reply that cold weather could be a cause for this. On MCW's application guide it states to paint wet coats from 2 to 3 inch's. You can spray additionally coats without waiting for it to dry. This i did same as all the bodies before leaving a fully smooth glossy finish. The only differences in the process was the cold wet weather. This time it was smooth and glossy until it dried. Drying was done in a dehydrator