StevenGuthmiller

I'm doing the same. It is nice to be able to upgrade a few things like adding some electrical goodies as you re-model. Fortunately, my house is newer and is already sheet rocked and dry-walled, but unfortunately it's also orange peeled, making it a little more difficult to patch. Steve

Green is perfect for most of the models that I build! The only issue that I see is that the website that you would be ordering from looks a little screwy to me. Everything is in Yen, not really certain what country it is coming from, (I'm guessing China). I'm not really sure that I trust it. You would think that some American on line hobby material provider would carry these. I googled the description of the product and came up empty. Correction. I found these on a few other sites, all European. One of the sites had them marked as a "future release". Steve

On vacation this past week, we ran across a column of old rods on a ride of some sort in Washington state. I managed to snap a couple of photos through the windshield. Steve

I was on vacation this week and logged onto the forum a couple of times on my wife's I-Pad. I saw the same issue with some of the pics not showing up. I never have any issues with viewing anything on my old fashioned, trusty desk top! I suppose I'll have to see if I can figure out why this is happening and try to correct it. No promises. I'm not exactly a wizard when it comes to tech! Steve

MCW and Scale Finishes have already done that! Steve

Hmmm. You seem to always find the good stuff Joe! I'll have to check these out myself. Steve

Unfortunately, all of the current Pontiac kits from this era from AMT and Moebius are based on the shorter Catalina chassis. The '63 Starfire would use the same wheel base as the Bonneville at 123 inches The Catalinas and Venturas used a 120 inch wheel base. I discovered all of this while searching for a suitable modern chassis for an AMT 1964 Bonneville. There is no chassis from any current modern kit that will drop in to a full sized Pontiac, Oldsmobile or Buick without stretching the wheel base. Steve

From my experience, one of the finest metallic silvers that I have ever used are plain old Testors metallic silver. But it is an enamel, and it's not particularly durable. You might want to consider one of the many shades of Alclad. You will not find a finer metallic particle anywhere. It will look great clear coated and polished. Steve Aluminum DurAluminum Dark Aluminum Pale Burnt Metal White Aluminum

Take it from a former drywall sub-contractor of over 25 years! Get rid of the plaster!! You can repair it, but once it starts deteriorating, there's no going back. You can fix one area, and it might look great, but as soon as you turn around, it will inevitably start cracking somewhere else. It's a lot of work and a huge mess to remove plaster, but if you don't get rid of it now, you'll just keep repairing and repairing until you eventually tear it all out and replace it anyway. Steve

On vacation this week. Tonight I had fried oysters and a cold beer at a restaurant called the “Train Wreck Bar & Grille” in Burlington Washington. Steve

Ribeye, pork tenderloin and shrimp kabobs. Some of the beef and pork kabobs had a chile adobo marinade. The marinade consisted of ancho and pasilla chiles, toasted almonds and sesame seeds, garlic, onion, tomato, cumin, cocoa, cinnamon, and other spices. Accompanying was a caramelized onion and wild rice pilaf, and a Caprese salad with fresh picked basil and tomatoes from the "garden". (pots) Steve

I personally have soaked resin bodies from Modelhaus in Super Clean, but not for an extended period of time. I have not had any issues. This is a paragraph from an old Modelhaus catalog from 30 years ago. I would hope that this might possibly put this question to rest. If it was good enough for Modelhaus for all of these years............ This is as close to 100% as you're going to get. This is not to say that all resins are the same. Steve

I removed my first one with a much larger saw than yours, but it went okay. My approach was to cut deep enough to leave the thin plate under the carb intact with the carb base. That way you can mitigate the possibility of any damage at the base of the carb. And then a few passes on some sand paper will remove that plate and leave a nice flat base. Steve

Steve

I don't know what the difference would be. It's still the same material, no matter the application method. Steve

Might be fun to have if you're a big "historical" guy. I wouldn't want to build any of them though! Steve

What are you doing looking at modeling forums at work young man?!!! Does your boss know about this? Steve

Or you could just use a photo hosting site like Fotki and the size of the photo would be irrelevant. I spend more on BMF every year than what it costs me to have a Fotki account. Steve

Why do they need soaking? If you are removing mold release agents, you could try something more benign like Bleche White. Or many people claim that soap and water will do the trick. Steve

My experience has been just the opposite. I have had far better luck maintaining the finish on Alclad painted parts over Molotow. I have panted small parts with Molotow ink, let them dry for well over a week, and still had loss of shine after handling the parts just long enough to install them. As a general rule, when I do use Molotow, I have to touch it up, sometimes more than once, by the time the assembly is finished. No mistake, Molotow ink is very useful for many applications. I just don't think it's the magic bullet that many make it out to be. And it's certainly no substitute for real chrome in my opinion. I recently used Molotow and Alclad on interior parts like window cranks on different projects. I had much better luck maintaining the finish on the Alclad parts. The arm rests and window cranks on this door panel were finished with Alclad. I'm certain that if I would have used Molotow, they would have required re-touching after installation. These were finished with Molotow. I had to touch them up after. Steve

Exactly. A shoulder replacement isn't a life threatening incident that might leave an individual bed ridden, such as a heart condition or the like. It's hardly an excuse to drop off of the face of the earth without at least notifying the individuals who's parts you have. Steve

Molotow Ink has been discussed many times on the forum as an alternative to plated parts. I believe that it has been pretty well argued that Molotow will never match the durability of true chrome. That's why we've been hearing more about products such as "Alsa Chrome" lately. I use Molotow ink on a limited basis, but would personally never use it on large parts such as bumpers due to it's fragility. Alsa Chrome seems to hold some promise as a durable chrome plating replacement should it become necessary. Steve

Fair enough, but it seems to me that if he was interested in maintaining his customer base, he would at a very minimum, take the time to inform the people whose parts he has had possession of for the past number of months that there will be delays due to health issues. Likewise, it might have been a good idea to at least put up a notice on Face book that operations will be suspended for a time due to his current circumstances. I don't believe that shoulder issues are a fair excuse to not, at a minimum, notify people of his status. Communication is the name of the game and he is doing himself no favors with his silence if he intends to continue operations in the future. Honestly, from the testimonials that I have heard from others and the fact that he seems to have no interest in corresponding with anyone who is seeking information about his services, tells me that he doesn't have much interest in continuing his business. Personally, I can't see a circumstance where I would feel comfortable with sending him any of my rare parts for refinishing. It doesn't seem likely that I would ever get them back. I'm not sure that there will be many others that are willing to take that risk either. Steve

I wouldn't worry about modifications like the radiator brace. It will only enhance the model. I don't always remove the radiator brace, but one of the first things to go on my builds is those God awful screw posts! Making "improvements" is not the same thing as hacking one up to make a custom or the like in my opinion. I chopped the snot out of the interior on my '65 Fury, but it was was brought back as close to stock as possible and I believe it will elevate the value of the model rather than diminish it. Steve

Where did you hear that? I had a discussion with a close friend of his a little while back. He mentioned nothing about shoulder replacements. Steve