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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. The only place that you will find '60 Ford caps will be from an original annual or a set from Modelhaus as far as I know. If you need a set of original '58 Ford caps Bill, just let me know. I still have a couple of original annual sets. Steve
  2. Yeah, but you have to admit Ron, it's still funny to look at. I realize that this is the way a lot of kids would have built this kit back in the day, but the point is not so much what was done to it, as it is that there's actually someone out there that thinks this thing is worth $76.00! That's the most amusing part. Or I should say, the most amusing part will be if he gets that much! Steve
  3. I had a '67 Chrysler 300 & a '58 Cadillac 62 Series coupe that I wouldn't mind having back. Although I don't know why. The '67 Chrysler's wiring was a complete mess & I had the Cadillac for over 25 years & never had the funds to do anything with it. I am lucky in one respect. The first "nice" car I bought right out of high school was a '69 Pontiac Grand Prix. After getting married, rather than sell it, I stuck it in storage. Just got it out a couple of years ago after nearly 30 years & started the restoration. Steve
  4. There is a family resemblance! Steve
  5. I buy all of my plates on ebay from "bestmodelcarparts". He offers all kinds of sets from many different states & different years. Each sheet contains 5 sets of plates from a particular state from 5 consecutive years. really nice quality stuff for $2.49 per sheet. Steve
  6. I would agree that the paint must be the issue. Normally, Tamiya tape is very forgiving in this type of situation. I've had the same problem with Testors silver, gold & copper spray enamels many years ago. Back to the drawing board, huh? Steve
  7. That is cool! I never knew that they did detail bits like this back in those days. I did find it kind of funny that they chose a '59 Pontiac for the art work on their '61 license plate packaging. Steve
  8. Ouch! What kind of tape did you use? This sort of thing is the reason why I use masking paper. It's always a good idea to have as little masking tape as possible on your painted surfaces. The type of masking tape can make a major difference as well. Steve
  9. Sure seems to be a lot of it going around lately. I guess I really didn't know a lot about John. I was never really an Asia fan, but King Crimson always intrigued me. I love "21st Century Schizoid Man"! Steve
  10. Boy Tommy, you're really on a roll! Very nice stuff! Please remember to leave a few for the rest of us! Steve
  11. Thank you very much Tommy! Steve
  12. I take it even a step farther. I don't apply the foil until right before the final color coat, & then I trim the foil as close to the scripts as possible. Trimming close eliminates the chance of any edges showing through, & applying under only one coat of color means less paint to remove from the foil. The less to remove, the better. I also use the appropriate paint thinner instead of sanding. You have to be very careful not to sand through the very thin foil, & sanding will take some of the shine off of the foil as well. The Bonneville scripts on this AMT '59 were extremely faint, but this method worked very nicely. Just a couple of ideas. Steve
  13. That's the kicker! There's no way on God's green earth that I would pay that much for one in this condition, & I find it hard to believe that anyone else would either! Steve
  14. I was just searching ebay for a "good" '63 Merc. This isn't it! Steve
  15. I was thinking maybe an Iguana or the like? Whatever it is, it makes the model! Steve
  16. Very nice Emmanuel! I wouldn't mind finding one of these with the up top. Steve
  17. It always brightens my day & gives me a little chuckle when I run across an auction like this on ebay. It's an AMT '63 Mercury convertible from Canada priced at $76.00! The add states: RARE! AMT '63 Mercury Not broken & "no parts missing". No parts missing? how can there be? They're all glued to the body! Actually, I think you would be very hard pressed to find a factory stock part that "wasn't" missing. Steve
  18. I've done that on occasion, but I think painting over it kills the affect. I wanted a little of the salt & pepper look, just a little darker would have been better. I use the metallic powders for my carpets & I absolutely love it! I think it gives a much more interesting look to the floors than painting over the powder. Steve
  19. I think Chris is right Bill. This is what the '58 Buick caps look like. Steve
  20. Great to have you Steve! Believe me, you'll find all the information you'll ever need on this forum. Lots of great guys here! Steve
  21. Actually, it's a mixture of black & gray powder. It gives it a bit of a "salt & pepper" look. I think it should have been a little darker myself, but there's always time for tweaking on the next project. Steve
  22. Yes, I use a lot of Alclad for these types of parts. The transmission is "Dark Aluminum", the alternator & fan clutch are "Polished Aluminum" & the exhaust manifolds are..........wait for it.........."Exhaust Manifold". Steve
  23. I mix a lot of these "metal" colors with Alclad. A mixture of "Pale Gold" & "Aluminum" would get you very close. I use this mixture for a lot of carburetors. Steve
  24. Nice work John! Here's something you might want to try just for kicks. I've been using embossing powder to replicate the hood insulation on my builds lately. It looks pretty good & it's not at all difficult to do. Just mask off the body color areas, brush on some Elmers or whatever kind of adhesive you would like, & sprinkle it on. I used to do all of my builds with just flat black paint, but I picked up this tip somewhere & thought I'd try it out. I like the look. Flocking would probably work well also. Steve
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