StevenGuthmiller

Our Christmas meal. Shrimp Cocktail, Shrimp and Corn Chowder, Thai Curry Mussels, Shrimp Scampi, and Broiled Lobster Tails. Steve

For Easter, a Lemon Curd Layer Cake. Steve

Bacon Wrapped Chicken Tenderloins, Homemade French Fries, and Onion Rolls. Steve

Chicken Cordon Blu, Twice Baked Potatoes, and Roasted Veggies. Steve

Our Valentine’s Day dinner. Lobster Thermidor, Steak Diane, Baked Potatoes with Butter, Sour Cream and Bacon, and Roasted, Carrots, Broccoli and Mushrooms. And a Flourless Chocolate Cake with Fresh Raspberry Sauce and Whipped Cream for dessert. Steve

Creamy Cajun sauté, with 2 kinds of sausage, and shrimp, over rice. Steve

Home style pot roast. Steve

Coconut shrimp with sweet chili orange dipping sauce, caramelized onion pilaf, and steamed broccoli. Steve

Boy, I haven’t added anything to this thread in some time, even though I haven’t stopped eating! ? Southern fried catfish and homemade fries. Steve

Nearly all of the trim on this dash board has been foiled, with the exception of a few separate parts which were sprayed with Alclad. It can be done. Steve

The problem with all of these chrome substitutes is that they all have the same basic characteristics. By that I mean none of them are particularly durable, and most will dull with the application of a protective clear coat, so it's pretty much a catch 22. Some seem to be a little more durable than others, and some are just awful in that regard, I don't know how anyone can adequately detail a grille for example, and maybe a grille badge, as the more you handle most of these products, the more messed up they get. The only product that I've heard of that has consistently been touted as durable to the extent of being anything approaching real chrome, is ALSA "Easy Chrome". Of course this product is quite expensive, but I for one will be willing to shell out some cash if a "true" solution for chrome is available, rather than these "half measures" that we have with all of these other products. Steve

I tried to incorporate as many of the small details as I could. Not particularly easy in this scale! ? Steve

That's a given. There are people out there who will screw up Spaghetti-O's. Steve

That was my guess right from the beginning. You're probably more likely to be able to find a chrome shop that does vacuum metalizing on a small scale than you are finding someone who uses ALSA chrome commercially. Steve

On my way to completing the 2-barrel Rochester carb. Just added a little detail to a center carb from the Revell '66 GTO kit. Not perfect, but with some detail painting and a little weathering, it should do pretty well. Steve

On my way to completing a 2-barrel Rochester carb for my '64 Lemans project. Just added a little detail to a center carb from the Revell '66 GTO kit. Not perfect, but with some detail painting and a little weathering, it should do pretty well. Steve

Or, just stick with what you know. Steve

Understood. But because it's not curing through evaporation but by chemical action, does that mean that it's completely and thoroughly dried or cured? It puts me in mind of some of the quick set joint compounds that we used in the drywall business. The misunderstanding by many was that because it became hard in 30, 60 or 90 minutes, that it was somehow dry. Of course, it was not, and required just as long as regular joint compound to dry completely. In the end, there are a number of other factors that steer me away from 2K, so for the foreseeable future, I'll be sticking with lacquer for my clear coating purposes. Steve

Hmmm, I wouldn't have guessed that. I wonder if a solvent based acrylic, (acrylic lacquer) would work. I don't have a lot of experience with water based paint. Well, I suppose if I drop the hammer on the ALSA chrome at some point, I'll just have to do a little experimenting. Steve

Yeah, this is part of the reason why I've stayed off of the 2K bandwagon. Nothing I hate more than waiting for weeks and months for paint to dry. Steve

What Urethane would you recommend Joe? I'm completely unfamiliar with the use of urethane as a spray can or airbrush material, but I think that it may be about time to pull the trigger on the ALSA system. I have no time for all of the "chrome paints" that everyone is using these days, but if this stuff is as durable as advertised, I'm in. Steve

I’m sorry. Seems I read your post a bit wrong. Yes, I would most likely do it this way, and possibly even permanently install the bumpers if the chassis installation would permit. Steve

Or, at the very least, temporarily attach the bumpers to the body to be certain that you’re masked lines match up, and then disassemble and paint separately. I guess a lot depends on the assembly process required for the particular model. You might possibly not be able to get the chassis into the model with the bumpers permanently installed. These are things that a seasoned builder will investigate before he gets in too deep. By the way, personally, I would paint the silver first, followed by the black for a couple of reasons. #1: it’s easier to cover silver paint with black, than it is to cover black with silver. #2: Masking the smaller silver portion of the body in preparation for the black will be a lot easier, and require a lot less masking material than masking the entire body just to spray the silver on the bottom. Steve

That is most certainly true! I guess that I still operate on the philosophy that every sub-assembly of a model is a model unto itself, so when I’m building an interior, I build it as if it were going to be displayed all by itself. Steve

It started as the center carb from the Revell ‘66 GTO’s tri-power set up. Steve