StevenGuthmiller

There's actually 7, but 2 of them are '64s. Steve

Steve

Same method that I often suggest for vinyl tops. Steve

Yeah, it's gotten expensive, but then again, what hasn't? And in the end, I've had issues with bad paint with every brand of paint that I've ever used at some point. Just the luck of the draw. Steve

On rare occasions I have had this happen with this clear, although maybe not to this extent. I’ve just chalked it up to a bad can of clear and moved on. In every case, the clear eventually hardened, but I know it’s not an optimal situation. I’ve probably bought 30 or more cans of this clear over the past 10 years, and I’ve had these issues with only a couple of them. Steve

Well, technically yes. just outside of Fargo North Dakota, so it’s pretty much like living in No-Dak. For tax purposes, I wish that I did live in ND!!!!!! ? Steve

There's the ticket. These things need to be addressed in advance. Steve

Not only are you in danger of chipping the paint, but once you begin, where do you stop? A scribed door is going to have a different appearance than an un-scribed one, so it’s not just a matter of scribing an inch or two on one panel. You’re probably going to have to scribe all of the panel lines so that they all match. Steve

Of course, but I could possibly see either of those popping up at some point, as they were both offered in kit form at one point. The ‘57 Buick never was. Steve

With Round-2 doing all of these resurrections of old kits long missing for decades, do you suppose that there's a possibility of some of these old acetate promos ever seeing the light of day in styrene? I'd buy a bunch of these!!! Steve

This is why I was asking. Steve

A few pics from a very small local IPMS show in south central Minnesota. I won a couple of category golds, but I'm a little bit disappointed in the judging criteria, (as I remember being the case the last time I was at this show possibly 5 years ago) So that, coupled with some other reasons, means that I won't be likely to be returning to this show. But, that aside, here are a few pics. Steve

That's what I'm waiting for. And I'll never be convinced that a chrome substitute will be a viable alternative for real chrome until that happens. Steve

I’ve been doing basically the same thing for quite some time, except instead of floor polish, I use a coat of Testor’s clear gloss lacquer. Steve

You can still find this kit relatively cheap. There’s a ton of them out there. Steve

As it's come to my attention that "Little Motor Car Company" is ceasing operation, is there anyone that has any knowledge of a good substitute for a company that will do small batch vacuum metalizing for the hobby? I have no interest in chrome paint as an alternative, so please, don't even bring it up. I guess my real question would be is if anyone has had any interaction with this promising looking company in California. The name is "M&M Metalizing" and according to their website, "There are no minimum quantities, and no job is too small or too large". They also say that "We are happy to plate anything you desire, ie, toys, model figures, etc". It sounds promising. https://mmmetalizing.com/index.html Steve

I have to say that I see a lot of custom roof swaps, (most of which look really dopey) but this one works. Fabulous build all around! Steve

I do this as well. Steve

Couldn't tell you for sure about that particular primer as I've never used it. Could be that it's too hot. These are the ones that I use. Steve

I have 14 finished Johan kits on my shelves right now, and probably 15 to 20 still waiting to be built. Most of these 30 to 35 kits are of the very rare "flat box" variety, along with a few scattered "USA Oldies" kits. I love these kits, and value them more than anything else in my collection. They are true collectors pieces as there is almost zero possibility that any of them will ever be reproduced. If you're a Mopar fan, you absolutely have to love Johan! They produced more interesting Mopar subjects than any other manufacturer, including a full line of Chrysler 300 kits from 1962 to '68, Plymouth Furys from '59 to '68, and full sized Dodges from 1959 until 1964. They also produced the ONLY Desoto model kit ever produced in styrene with the 1960 Desoto Adventurer kit. Of the 14 finished Johan kits that I have in my collection, an even dozen are unusual Mopar subjects, from Dodge Royal Lancers and Dart Phoenixes, to Plymouth Furys, and Chrysler New Yorkers and 300s. The same thing could be said for Cadillac, Oldsmobile and AMC. The bodies are absolute works of art, rivaling any modern kit, and exhibiting remarkable accuracy, especially when you consider their age. While the chassis, and interiors can often leave something to be desired, they lend themselves very well to kit bashing parts from modern kits to produce something finely detailed and truly unique. Steve

Should have been plenty, but I'm not familiar with the "short can" primers. I use Duplicolor "Sandable" primers, (of whatever color) and Duplicolor "Primer Sealer". Tall cans. Usually as many as 4 or 5 coats. Could be the case that the one you're using is a different formula, or as some have said, kit plastic these days is real garbage, or a combination of the two. Likewise, the type of paint that you're having mixed at the parts store is usually extremely hot. Could be that the primer is just not enough of a barrier for it. Steve

How much primer did you use? Steve

Just so you’re aware, Duplicolor automotive lacquer primer is hotter than some other primers, so you’ll get much better results using several light coats rather than one heavy one, just as you will with lacquer color coats, or any paint for that matter. I think that often people get ahead of themselves and begin rushing things, and just as with most things in life, rushing will do more harm than good. You can spray 3 or 4 light coats of primer 15 or 20 minutes apart and expect much better results than you’re going to get with one heavy coat virtually every time. Steve

For some subjects, such as the Super Bird, there are probably better, more detailed kits available, although, in my opinion, the body proportions and accuracy of most Johan kits is unmatched. That said, for much of Johan’s subject matter, there is no option. Where else are you going to find a 60s Rambler? Everything else is secondary as I see it. Steve

That might be all that’s required if it’s just the hood. Steve