StevenGuthmiller

Thanks Bill. I'm assuming the color differential is because I sanded a little into the color & it was looking a little darker in those areas after a subsequent clear coat. I've spent a good portion of the afternoon trying to remedy the situation, but it just seems to be getting worse! I started be shooting another light coat of color over the clear. That seemed to take care of the color problem. Then it all went south again when I shot another coat of clear over the top & for some ridiculous reason the clear almost seems to be beading up on the hood!? I let it dry for a while & then hit it with another coat of clear. Same thing! I can't remember ever having a paint job that was so frustrating in my entire life! It's just been a complete fiasco! My only options now are to let it dry for a while, maybe try one more coat & then sand it smooth if necessary & then try one more clear coat. If that fails, I'll have to strip it & start over. Then the question of whether or not I have enough paint left rears it's head. I may have to order more paint! If that's the case, this build goes bye-bye for a while until I get the rancid taste out of my mouth! You may be seeing a '63 Bonneville in my very near future! Steve

A coat of Testors # 1260 Dullcote will do the trick. Steve

Yeah, it looked good until this morning. After the first coat of clear, I noticed a couple of pieces of "fuzz" had gotten in the clear on the hood. I lightly sanded them out thinking that the little bit of sanding that I did wouldn't have gone through the clear to the paint. Well, I guess I was wrong. After applying a second clear coat, I'm now noticing some "blushing" in the sanded areas! I just can't win for losing on this build! I'm just about ready to give up on it! Steve

Or you can do what I suggested & get it for airbrush or spray can, & you don't have to contact anyone or have anything made. Just order what you want. Steve

Pieces of old cotton t-shirt material is what I use for.......well, pretty much everything! Steve

I can't remember the last time a paint job fought me like this one has. Trouble from start to finish! But I think it's finally ready for clear coats. This is the longest build I've done in 3 or 4 years! Just can't seem to get things moving along. I started this project a month & a half ago, & I've just now got the color coats on!? Man, somethings gotta give! Anyway, here it is with some color. Steve

Very Nice Eric! The hard top version of this kit is getting pretty tough to find! Steve

MCW has both colors in aerosol cans. Lowes #31, 2027 Blue & 2085 yellow. Both are automotive lacquers. Not cheap, $15.00 each for rattle cans, but if you want the exact colors, they have 'em. Steve

Welcome Eric! My dad bought a brand new Charger SE in 1973. It was triple black. He bought it right off of the showroom floor & I believe it had a small block in it. We had that car for less than a year because my mother hated it. They traded it in months later for another giant, wood grained Mopar station wagon! Steve

Very true. I don't do much burnishing until after the trim is cut. As far as the adhesive residue goes, as long as you don't intend to do any more painting on the body, a dab of WD-40 on a Q-tip will take it right off with zero effort. Steve

I've recently started using Duplicolor "Paint Shop" clear. It's a lacquer so I'm not really worried about yellowing, but hey.......you never know. I've really grown to like the stuff though, & a quart can will last me until the second coming! Steve

Stay away from enamel, especially on light colors. I have yet to see any of my builds done with clear lacquer turn yellow. Steve

A good rule of thumb is to leave a little extra hanging over in an area where you can get underneath the excess to pull it off. Sometimes it can stick well enough where it's hard to get an edge "up" to remove it. If you leave a little hanging out over the edge of the body, over a window opening, over a panel line, etc, you'll have something to get a hold of when it comes time to remove it. Another trick is to fold a corner under itself before you burnish it down so you have a small corner that will not stick to grab on to. Steve

That's what happens when you try to be a "hot dog". Steve

I looked at a bunch too & most of the photos that I saw showed them chrome with a body colored insert in the center. Some were also solid chrome. Seems to me that you could go either way. Nice work Harry! Steve

You have much more patience than I have.......or will ever have! Good luck! Steve

Ok, now I'm beginning to wonder if it's a good idea to use it for window tinting. I guess it shouldn't be a problem if I'm using a green tint, but if it yellows over time, I really don't know if I want to take any chances. Steve

If these are the ones you're thinking of, I believe these came from the old AMT '51 Chevy Belair kit. Steve

Welcome "Dude". You have quite the image to live up to! Steve

They wouldn't have been anything from Chrysler around 1960. The Chrysler tail lights from that period were all pretty flamboyant pieces with definitely no flat mounting surface. Steve

I started a convertible conversion on this promo many years ago, but kind of gave up on it for lack of an accurate interior. You could probably use the engine straight from the AMT '58 Plymouth Fury kit. As far as dual quad early Mopars go, you could see if you could come up with some early '60s Johan engine parts, especially the air cleaners, & I'm sure you could cobble something together. Steve

Now that's some nice work!! Great job! Steve

I don't know, maybe it's just me but a 6 banger in a Camaro seems like a real waste of time. The announcers on the show seemed to think it was a real rarity. Steve

Reminds me of a '67 Camaro I saw sold on an the Mecum auction show last night. It had the RS package with a 6 cylinder engine. Uh.......why? Steve

PM sent. Steve