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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. I use both also. I use Fotki more for cataloging my stuff & Photobucket more for posting, although either one will work fine. I find that Photobucket can be very "glitchy" on occasion. I have problems getting things done on there quite often. Steve
  2. That's funny Johann! I appreciate that, but everyone has their limitations & I think a happy meal toy is well beyond mine. Steve
  3. Maybe I'll come & visit when I'm 100 & we can build together! Steve
  4. You're correct Snake. Testors "Wet Look" clear is a lacquer, & yes Chris, you can sand it. Steve
  5. I've been building for over 40 years. I entered my first ever contest last summer only because my wife & daughter talked me into it. I won first place in the stock category so now I have one trophy. Quite possibly the only one I'll ever have. Steve
  6. Nice Tommy! Whoever built that one had at least a little bit of a clue on how to build a model. Under all of the dirt it looks like they did a pretty good job. At least the '59 Buick doesn't have a lot going on around the rear fenders, so repairs shouldn't be too difficult. Steve
  7. Thanks guys! The chassis never really bothered me on these old kits Bill. Over the past few years I've fancied myself as more of a restorer than a model builder. I like to keep these old annuals as close to their original state as possible while still trying to make them look a little more realistic. To me there's something especially satisfying about taking one of these less than detailed old kits & showing myself that they can look respectable without too much re-working. Plus the time involved is not something that I wish to get involved in anymore. In my past modeling life, I used to get into much more heavy detailing & as a result I was lucky to finish one kit in a years time. I realize it's not a race, but I am getting up there in age & there are just far too many subjects I want too build & far too little time to build them. So, for me, even the original engines with the axle holes in the block are just fine. With a little love, even those look pretty nice with a little added detail. Steve
  8. Thanks Eric. That's pretty much what I settled on. I used Testors gloss black enamel for the base. You don't get a lot softer than that! I sprayed some clear over an inconspicuous area & discovered that a clear coat would not work. It looks good so I'm just going to leave it alone & try to handle it as little as possible. Thanks! Steve
  9. Got it! I thought about foil, but I didn't want any seams in them. Plus the fact that some of the front of the seat backs will be exposed around the cushions & I decided they would be a hassle to foil. I thought the Alclad would be the best solution. It looks good, I'll just have to be careful while finishing up the seat detail & assembly. Thanks guys! Steve
  10. Thanks guys!! I feel like I'm making a little better time on this one than the '65 Monaco. Got some good time in on the interior today, although I did have a couple of minor set backs. But I think everything is under control now, & with luck I'll pretty much have the interior done this week. Then it will be on to the engine! Steve
  11. Not sure what you mean Cato. The black part is staying black & will be flocked. The chrome part has already been shot with Alclad. There's nothing to foil. Steve
  12. I've had problems with Alclad "Polished Aluminum" rubbing off of transmissions & such Harry, but that's with quite a bit of handling while finishing an engine. Hopefully these won't require as much handling. Steve
  13. Thanks for the responses guys. Luckily I found a way to test it by spraying a little clear on the inside of one of the parts. As Harry stated, it ruined the chrome look! I guess I'll just have to handle them carefully to minimize any finish rubbing off. Steve
  14. Thanks Harry. That's what I was afraid of. The seat backs will require some work like flocking the carpeted area & possibly some extra painting, so I thought with all of that extra handling, it would be good if I could give them a coat of clear to make them a little more durable. At this point, I think I will still try it. I guess they're only seat backs. Steve
  15. Well, there's really no "damage" with clear coating over Metalizer paint, it just makes the "metal" finish look like your average old silver paint. I just wanted to make sure that the clear would not change the "chrome" look of the Alclad. So far no answers, so I guess I'll play "pioneer" & give it a try. Steve
  16. Hi guys! I have yet to try this, so I thought I should ask anyone who may know. Can you spray a clear coat over Alclad chrome without destroying the "chrome" effect? I needed to refinish some seat backs for my '66 Chrysler build & they will get a bit of handling before the end, so I thought a coat of clear would seal it up to prevent any rubbing off of the finish. I just want to be sure that they will still look like chrome after a clear coat. We all know what happens to Metalizer paint when you seal it. Steve
  17. I usually do all of the cooking, but for the first time ever, I will be going with the wife & daughter to a restaurant for brunch. No cooking this year!! Steve
  18. Been married to my beautiful wife for almost 29 years, & I can still say, honestly, that she is my best friend! And no, she's not looking over my shoulder as I type! Steve
  19. Funny part is, even a kit like that can build into a nice shelf model. Steve
  20. Oh, I agree Pete. There are all sorts of situations where an airbrush works much better than a spray can. I use my airbrush for all sorts of different applications. I was only stating that the availability of colors was the reason that I initially bought an airbrush. I have no access to anyone who will mix colors for me in a spray can, but I have access to any kind of pre-thinned airbrush paints via the internet that I could ever desire. Variety is the spice of life & I never want to have the colors I choose for a build limited to what's available in a spray can. Steve
  21. I'm still of this thought too. I just can't see the Holthaus's just packing up all of those molds & pitching them in the trash. There has to be a bit of cash wrapped up in all of that stuff. Now, the big question is, if someone does buy it, is it someone who will be able to do something with it, or someone who "wishes" they could do something with it & winds up biting off more than the can chew. MCW just recently sold off the paint portion of their business & the new owner is committed to carrying on with hopefully little interruption. I'll find out soon as I just ordered paint for the first time since the business changed hands. I'm relatively confident than something similar will most likely happen with Modelhaus.......Fingers crossed! Steve
  22. Speaking of low parts counts, a while back I built an AMT "Junior Craftsman" 1959 Ford Galaxie kit. The total parts count was 22 parts! Steve
  23. With me it's not so much results that makes the difference. Good results can be gotten with either spray cans or an airbrush. I have almost as many finished kits in my collection that were done with a spray can as those done with an airbrush, & you would never be able to differentiate between the two. My biggest reason for using an airbrush on bodies is availability of options. There's a huge world of airbrush paints, finger nail polish, custom mixed colors, etc out there, & the only way to take advantage of that is with an airbrush. Spray cans are just too limiting for me. That is the "only" reason that I ever purchased an airbrush. Steve
  24. Well, the body is "almost done". I still have a few details to pick out here & there. I'm happy with the paint now that it's all polished & the foil always helps. Got a start on the interior & then it's on to the engine. I still have to figure out a good way to detail the "440 TNT" air cleaner. Steve
  25. Thanks John. I usually shoot the back of the glass with some clear window tint. That should have pretty much the same affect. I've not been able to find the Future polish around here. I built another kit a while back that had a few stress cracks in the glass & you have to be looking for them to see them. But being a modeler, you know, even if nobody else sees them, you know they're there & it bugs you. Steve
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