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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller
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Paint Question
StevenGuthmiller replied to BubbaBrown's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Absolutely! I have blushing problems occasionally with Duplicolor rattle cans. Clear coating will take care of the problem, no question. Steve -
what paint do you use
StevenGuthmiller replied to bubbaman's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I think if you did a poll, you'd find that the majority of builders use lacquers today. I could be wrong about that, but it seems that way to me. Steve -
sanded through color with polishing kit
StevenGuthmiller replied to kurth's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I think this entire thread is a perfect promotion for clear coats. Steve -
1966 Chrysler 300, Update, 5/1, DONE!!
StevenGuthmiller replied to StevenGuthmiller's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Thanks Steven, but not my style. Steve -
I use a combination of spray cans, air brush & brush paint. For brush painting I use Testors flat enamels. Eliminates most of the brush marks & covers pretty well. A good rule of thumb for coverage is to "always" start with the lightest color first & work your way to darkest. Steve
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Bingo! "A little patience & a bunch of Tamiya tape" I always say! Steve
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Stripping paint from plated parts
StevenGuthmiller replied to MrBuick's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
What kind of wheels are they? You might want to just post in the wanted section & replace them. I'm pretty sure most of the strippers that would be effective on the paint will also remove the plating. Steve -
Ideas for 1/25 CB antenna(wire)???
StevenGuthmiller replied to crowe-t's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I make my own telescoping antennas using pieces of surgical "syringe" tubing for the base, & stretched sprue for the top half. I like to use the plastic for the top because a little heat will add the "ball" on the tip. Steve -
AMT 1/25 '64 Chevy Impala
StevenGuthmiller replied to ANovaScotian's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I haven't built the AMT kit in many years either, but it's a fine kit. The body is very nice but it's an old annual mold so you get what you did 50+ years ago. I have the Revell kit, but have yet to build it. The detailing is light years beyond the AMT kit & the issue that I have has all of the stock & low rider parts. Personally, if I ever build one again, it will most definitely be the Revell kit. Steve -
Red & Black...... Pffffft! You chose the right color! Steve
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Paint Stripper: Insights on Lacquer Removal
StevenGuthmiller replied to Lunajammer's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I hear you Mike. I could post a couple of pictures on how Super Clean works on enamels. I'm very careful when I buy built kits to try to do my best to only get ones that are painted with enamel paint. The photos you will see are all kits painted with enamel & soaked for a couple of hours in Super Clean. Lacquers are a different subject altogether. Super Clean is a "degreaser" and has little effect on the lacquer paint itself. It gets under the paint & degrades it's ability to adhere causing it to come off in sheets. I've had the paint on an entire hood or top come off in one sheet! A good thing to try when you're ready to strip a lacquer paint job is to scratch the paint up, all the way down to the primer before submerging. This will give the Super Clean places to get under the paint to begin the lifting process. Just as with anything else, this product is not fool proof. It was never designed to be a paint stripper & will not work on everything. I've had the most issues with some flat black paints & some primers. One of the nice things about it is that it's safe for pretty much all plastics & resins. You need to be careful with alcohol & brake fluid depending on what you're stripping. Another member just posted a thread about a destroyed resin body after attempting to strip it in alcohol. Any way, all of these were stripped in Super Clean in less than 4 hours. As a matter of fact, I just received a heavily painted body in the mail this afternoon @ 3:00. I dropped it in the purple stuff immediately, & by 5:30 this evening, when I returned home from work, it was 99% crystal clean. Dropped it back in & will let it finish getting out the few small bits left in some tight areas over night. By tomorrow it will look like a brand new kit. Steve As you can see on this '58 Ford, The Super Clean would not remove the gold paint in the side spear. I have no idea why. -
Oooh! That's a bummer Curt! But you have to remember stripping styrene & stripping resin are 2 different animals. Some things that work well for plastic will destroy resin. I would try some "Super Clean" the next time you have resin parts to strip. A lot of resin casters recommend Super Clean or Easy Off oven cleaner to clean mold release agents from the castings, including Modelhaus. I've used it a few times & have had no problems with it damaging the resin. That's a real shame! Looks like you were on your way to a really nice finished build! If it's any consolation, the interior looks terrific! Steve
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Paint Stripper: Insights on Lacquer Removal
StevenGuthmiller replied to Lunajammer's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
A mixture of paints like this can be very confusing. You never know what was used & some of these old paints can be God knows what! You have to be really patient sometimes depending on the paint techniques & paint used. Get some fresh purple stuff & try some "Super Clean" this time if you can find it. My local auto parts store carries all of these cleaning products. Put it back in the soup & leave it alone for a few weeks. I have a '64 Pontiac Grand Prix that's been soaking for well over a month & it's coming clean, but slowly. The previous painter used lacquer paint without adequate primer & the paint etched the plastic making it very difficult to strip clean. I suspect you may be having the same issue with some of yours. Luckily, you're dealing with an easy to find kit. You may be better off not wasting your time & just get a new one. I've got a brand new '59 Elky body that I could send your way if you need it. Steve -
1966 Chrysler 300, Update, 5/1, DONE!!
StevenGuthmiller replied to StevenGuthmiller's topic in WIP: Model Cars
I wasn't sure how the detail on the kit air cleaner was going to work out, but I think it came out quite well, considering. I first added the second snorkel & then primed. Then I shot a couple of coats of Dulpicolor red over the whole top of the air cleaner. Next I foiled the lettering & then shot a couple more coats of red over the foil. Then I cut a small round hole in the middle of a piece of foil to allow the center area around the wing nut to receive black paint, positioned it on the air cleaner & then trimmed around the outside. In other words, I used foil to mask. After shooting the black, I removed the mask & then cleaned the lettering with a little thinner. After a little detailing, I shot a coat of clear over the whole thing. I may do another clear coat before calling it done. This little project alone took me the better part of the afternoon! Going to try to get some more engine work done this evening. Steve -
Johan 1962 Dodge Dart--Update 10/04/16
StevenGuthmiller replied to DR JAY's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Nice work Jason! I'm planning on doing a '62 Dart very soon as well, although mine will not be nearly this involved. Mine is a convertible & I'll be swapping the engine too, but that will be about as far as I go. Keep up the good work! Steve -
Two weeks should be plenty, unless it's enamel. I wouldn't come any where near an enamel paint job for a minimum of a month! Enamel paints like Testors take a long time to cure fully. When I was still using enamel paints, I would paint the body & then put it away for several months to ensure it was fully cured. Now, using lacquers, a week is usually ample time to cure, although as Bill said, the longer the better. Steve
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A Thank You to Modelhaus (Everyones Finished Projects)
StevenGuthmiller replied to Sport Suburban's topic in Model Cars
Nice stuff Bill! I have seen, & drooled over your '61 Caddy, But I don't think I have ever seen your '59 Buick. Both gorgeous!! Steve -
A Thank You to Modelhaus (Everyones Finished Projects)
StevenGuthmiller replied to Sport Suburban's topic in Model Cars
I haven't built any complete Modelhaus kits......yet, but I have used a lot of their parts for many of my restorations. I use a lot of their tires & have done several kits with their beautiful wire wheels. I think the kit I've built using the most parts from Modelhaus is my '58 Ford Sunliner. It utilized the convertible up top, the continental kit & a set of wide whites from Modelhaus. All very nice stuff! I don't know what I'll do without their excellent tires! Steve -
Cool Bob! The color suits it very well! Steve
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1959 Chevy Impala-----FINALLY DONE! 4/9/16
StevenGuthmiller replied to MrObsessive's topic in Model Cars
Beautiful Bill! 4 years!! I would have lost interest after about 2 months! Glad you didn't. Steve -
All I can think of when I see this is the song "Lowrider" by war. After watching the movie again just last night on Netflix, I can't get it out of my head! You nailed it Pat! Steve