StevenGuthmiller

That's true depending on the paint you're using, how many coats you use & how heavy they are. I've done some very faint scripts with my method & had no problems at all. Even after 4 or 5 coats of primer & about 3 coats of color before that final color coat. Most of the detail "hide" comes later from the clear coats. At least it does for me. On my current '66 Chrysler project, the "300" badges on the c-pillars were almost non-existent. They still worked out ok. Steve

MPC was really bad about those inner fender wells with the big gaps. Really wouldn't be tough to fix if you wanted to spend the time on it. A little bit of styrene sheet around those would fill them in. I assume that they did them that way just for ease of assembly. They didn't want you to have to shoe horn them into the body. Most of these old annuals were surely lacking under the hood. From MPC's gaps, to Johan's squared wells, & most of them having those horrible screw posts on the radiator brace! But I never let that stop me. They're still very worthy of being built in my opinion. Steve

Ditto. I use it on every paint job. Along with the "Clean & Shine". Steve

I guess maybe I've been spending too much time restoring old kits. Sometimes they need a light rinse! Steve

If you're using the finest grits, (as fine as 12000) you should have no problem with dulling. I use polishing pads only with no liquid polishes because I like to tint my glass afterwards. I just finished the glass for my '66 Chrysler last night. Just polished with Micro-Mesh pads & tinted. Steve

I agree with most of what Ray said. I just use the same technique that I use for scripts. I don't build a lot of cars with marker lights, but when I do, this is how I do them. Like Ray, I apply foil to them, but I don't clean them off after each coat of paint. I apply the foil before the "last" color coat & then clean it off just once before clear coating over it. You could then apply some Testors "Stop Light Red" or "Turn Signal Amber" to the lens before or after clear coating depending on the clear you use. I use pretty much the exact same technique for body scripts with color in them. Examples in the hood badge on this '62 Ford, & the trunk ornament on this '61 Buick. Steve

Same here. I'm usually relieved when I finish a build! I don't want to revisit it. Just want to move on to the next one. Too many kits, not enough time! Steve

If it's a myth, why do most resin casters recommend soaking in something to remove those agents? I won't pretend to be an expert on this subject, but it seems to me if Modelhaus recommends it, what is the reasoning behind it. I started a resin kit many years ago not knowing anything about mold release agents & just prepped as I normally would, with soap & water. Fish eye city!! I have no clue if doing something different would have helped or not, but when I realized a release agent was used, it made perfect sense to me. Not looking to start a war or anything, just curious. Steve

Thanks guys! I'm relatively confident that I should have this one wrapped up sometime this weekend. All of the components are done & detailed & ready for final assembly. Hopefully you can expect it in "under glass" in a few days. Thanks for all of the interest & kind comments everyone! Steve

Very nice! I have a '62 Dart convertible on my short list. Steve

Great looking '57 Tulio! Steve

I don't think I've ever seen it either. Steve

The fit & finish is amazing! Anyone notice how well the door fits? Steve

They really do grow on you though. Kind of like a fungus! Steve

Another nice pair Tommy! I think you already know how I feel about '66 Chrysler 300s! Here's a little tidbit that might help when you get around to restoring it. Chrysler had a thing with changing hub cap designs mid year all throughout the '60s. The hub caps that came with the '66 kit are correct for late 1966 Chrysler 300s, & early 1967s. In the same vain, the late '65 hubcaps were correct for early '66s. So, if you need to find hubcaps, you have a few options. If you happen to find a set of '65 caps, you're good. Also, if you come across a set of Johan caps from a '67 kit, they're exact replicas of the ones in the '66 kit. Steve

Oh no Snake. We're moving from coal to wind power you know. Why not just strap a wind turbine to the top of the car? No more fueling........ever!

Wow! That was exactly my first thought Bill! I guess great minds think alike! Steve

Now you're talking! It always amazes me how much the foil can really bring a kit to life! You did a fantastic job on it too! Steve

Nice looking Ford Mark! I haven't built one of these '49s in many years! I think I should build one! The paint is gorgeous! Almost too shiny for a '49. Steve

Very nice Emmanuel! And I see that great minds think alike! I built mine a few years ago in the same colors. Just a little different 2-tone treatment. Steve

Yeah, sorry. I misread the thread heading. I thought Jeff was asking about resin parts. There's no need to soak styrene parts. Just a good cleaning with some warm water & dish detergent is all that's needed before paint. Steve

Modelhaus recommends Super Clean or Bleche White. I've used Super Clean. Works great. Steve

I'm not sure that I would agree Mike! It really looks sharp in that color! It's very unusual & gives it a very "formal" look! I absolutely love it! Steve

Holy cow!! That's an amazing save Mike! Especially considering the mess that the rear quarter trim was. I probably never even would have attempted to repair that! Fantastic work! How did you do your upholstery pattern? I did mine all in paint & some Sharpie markers. It was quite an undertaking! Steve

Still hoping to finish this one up before the 1st of May, but the real car has been keeping me busy on the weekends lately, & I don't seem to get a lot done during the week. Getting close though, & I did manage to finish up the engine this afternoon. Hopefully I'll get a little more done this evening. The engine is straight from the box with a little detail added. Steve