StevenGuthmiller

I just thought that having just finished my '66, some of you might like to see a trio of old Johan kits. '64, '65 & '66. Still have the '62, '63, '67 & '68 to go! All in good time I guess. Steve

I would just save this photo & use it for reference for mixing your own darker green. Should be pretty easy to do. Steve

It is an odd color. Available on the '57 as well. I originally was going to use it for a '56 Nomad too, but when I was researching for a color for my '58 & I found this photo.......well, that clinched it. Steve

Thanks guys! Thank you Bill! I have a '66 Plymouth to build as well someday, hopefully soon, but mine is a convertible. Steve

I painted my '58 Bonneville in the same colors Mike. Mine were from MCW. Looks a little different than yours, but lighting makes a big difference. The difference between indoor & natural lighting is dramatic! Steve

After looking at some 1:1 photos, I'm pretty confident that the Testors pale yellow, (actually a Ford color called "Phoenician Yellow") would be pretty close. A little pale, but close All depends on how exact you want to be. As Harry & Mike said, MCW & Scale Finishes will give you an exact match. Nice color combo by the way! Steve

India Ivory would probably be pretty easy. It's basically just an off white. Duplicolor or Testors Ford "Wimbledon White" would probably work fine. The yellow might be a little tougher to find an exact match, but it shouldn't be hard to find something very close. Testors used to have a "Butternut Yellow" but it was a little lighter shade. I think it was a '69 GM color. But I'm not sure if they make it anymore. Of course, if you wanted an exact match, you could always order from MCW. They carry some colors in a rattle can too. I'll bet they would have something close in a spray can, & their spray paint is every bit as nice as their airbrush colors. I checked & they have about 10 different shades of yellow in a spray can. But they run $15.00 a can & there's really no way from looking at the website what shade you would be getting. You'd have to do a little detective work, or call or e-mail them. Steve

Thanks so much everyone! Aside from the bad windshield, (which I replaced with a spare '65/'66 Plymouth one) & the broken A pillar, this one went pretty well. I enjoyed it immensely! Thanks Pat! That platform is the retaining wall on the East side of my house. The only real flat surface around my house that is a good place to get outside shots. If I wasn't so lazy, I'd pack up my builds & take them out some where to get a better back drop. Either that or make some sort of background for taking pics. But that really eats into my valuable build time. Steve

I really enjoyed my last Johan 1966 Chrysler 300 build so I decided why not extend the joy & go right into another great old Johan kit. This '65 Fury is in exceptional condition. So much so that the chrome will not even need replating. Normally, I would remove the mold lines from the bumpers & have them re-chromed, but the chrome is so nice, I'll let them go on this one. Already started filling the few minor sink marks in the body. The color on this one will be "Medium Tan Metallic". A kind of champagne gold color with a white top & probably a gold interior See you soon! Steve

That's the biggest reason I started using them. Availability of color choices was my main reason for trying them. Particle size of the metal flakes in the metallic colors is a huge deal also. If you look at these photos, it's very difficult to pick out any "flakes" in the paint, yet it is a metallic color. Just how a metallic paint job would look from this distance on the 1:1. I won't go back to a rattle can. At least for any metallic paint jobs! Steve

These Johan '62 Plymouths are not all that rare. You should really have no problem finding replacement parts for it. Steve

Ok. Photo size issue aside, thank you everyone! Thanks Harry! I use MCW paints almost exclusively now with a smattering of Duplicolor. This is a Model Car World Color. I really love their paints! Thanks Marcelo! I have a giant soft spot for these C-bodies too. I owned a '67 Chrysler 300 in high school. I have the kit. I just need to get it built! Steve

Thanks Harry. Most responses I've had so far either say they look fine or they don't mention it. So far only you & Jon Cole have mentioned it. The camera I'm using is set on "normal" mode & seems to take the best photos at this setting. Anything smaller starts to lose resolution. I post these exact photos to several other forums & sites including some Yahoo forums & Flickr as well as other "magazine" forums. I've never heard any mention of it any where else. Never even knew there was any problem at all until I started posting here. I appreciate your bringing it to my attention Harry, & maybe I can make some "future" adjustment, but the photos that I have up till now will be staying as is. Steve

Can't imagine what the problem would be, but I have far too many photos to start resizing them now every time I want to post something. All of my photos are posted from external photo hosting sites. If I start messing with them & change them in any way, all of my existing links begin to disappear. I'm using a 23 inch HP monitor. Everything looks just "hunky dory" on my end. Steve

What are you viewing it on? My guess would be an I-pad. Steve

I've heard you mention this before Harry, but I've never seen what you're talking about on my monitor. Seems to me that the problem is on the "viewers" end depending on the device they're viewing it on. I've seen these "squished" photos on an I-pad, phone, etc. But on a computer screen, they look just fine. The photo you re-posted looks absolutely fine on my end, just smaller, but they both look the same. Steve

Well, here it is. I was hoping to finish this one by the first of May. I guess I made it! This is probably one of my top 5 all time favorite cars & definitely my favorite Chrysler 300. A very nice kit as well, as most of these old Johan kits were. It's just a shame that these old tools will never be coming back. Nothing much to say as far as the build goes. Pretty much box stock, the way I like 'em, with a few added details. Cast window cranks & flocked carpeting on the inside, & a little plumbing & wiring under the hood. The color is correct 1966 Chrysler "Spanish Red". Steve

I've had moderate success removing some minor yellowing by soaking the glass in Super Clean. Usually this old kit glass would benefit from a good cleaning anyway, & the Super Clean does a pretty good job. I have had some old kits with yellowed glass before, but nothing that dramatic, so I won't guarantee that it will help. I did have some minor yellowing on the last project that I worked on, but by the time I was finished soaking & tinting, it was indiscernible. That's another option that may help is some light tinting. Steve

Whew! My goal was to finish this one by the first of May! I guess I made it.....just barely! Look for it very soon in the "Under Glass" section. Thank you all so much who followed me on this build. You all keep the fire burning in me to complete these kits & I am eternally grateful! Steve

Ah! That's where the confusion is. Jay was looking for the rocker panel trim & gravel guard.

The green decals were intended for the interior door panels. You could either foil the gold anodized area, or at this point it may be just as easy to paint them gold. Most times the gold foil looks too shiny for anodized trim anyway. Steve

Sorry Michael, but Bill is right. That part is not included in the Monogram kit. You are probably mistaking the rear quarter side spear which includes the "divider" that covers the color change at the rear bumper. They do look similar. Steve

Great find Bill! Steve

I'd take a '57 Olds or Buick over either one of them any day of the week! Nice Ford T! Steve

Good to have you "T"! Thought I'd better introduce myself as my profile name is different here than on that "other forum". Welcome & glad you could make it! I think you'll be happy here! Steve