RancheroSteve

Thanks, Bill. Yes, the Tamiya paint stand is great - beats the homemade coat hanger stands I used to use. The only thing I need to remember is not to turn it upside down - the top part isn't attached to the base.

Starting to get some paint (MCW #6003 Pelham Blue) on the body and associated bits:

Yes, there are several different versions of these Protar bike kits. It appears that there are a few common parts trees, so you'll end up with a bunch of extra parts. Just figuring out which parts are the ones to use for your particular version is a task! The markings were just regular waterslide decals. Mildly troublesome (because of their age, perhaps), but nothing terrible.

I think the Grand Prix was one up, then the Super Course, perhaps?

Back in '75 I could only afford a Raleigh Record myself - the bottom of the ten speed line at about $125, but I loved it just the same. Funny that you should mention the Professional Mk IV - I have one! The frame at least, and it's a 25 1/2", which fits me just right. Got lucky a few years ago, found it used and in need of attention. It had a bad re-paint, so I sanded it down and painted it a nice light metallic blue - a Duplicolor GM Pontiac color that is close the Blue Mink. It's now built up with nice modern components and is my "good" bike. Good luck with the kit - it's a challenge for sure, but worth it, in my experience!

Says, "not designed to work with the Monogram March kits" for some reason, but I think most of it would work reasonably well - at least the lettering and numbers. I have one of these unbuilt on the shelf, too. Watching, curious to see how it builds . . .

Thanks for the info - I'm always willing to stand corrected. The Revs Institute looks like a great resource! I have to admit I'm not too knowledgeable about some of these fine points, outside of small block Fords. I was basing my engine details off photos I found online - including this one - that seems to show a bypass hose:

Thought I'd share a little something I did that might be helpful for any of you guys using the Micro Mark kit. I found that after some use, the clamp that holds the piece in the tank started to lose its tension and wouldn't hold very reliably any more. So I bought a 8/32 x 1" nylon bolt and wing nut from the hardware store, cut the old clamp off the rod and the head off the bolt, then epoxied the bolt onto the rod (with a plastic sleeve for additional strength). Then it's simply a matter of punching or drilling a hole in the workpiece and putting the wing nut on to hold it. No more worries about losing the part in the tank!

I started prepping the body. It's a nice, sharp casting that doesn't need much clean-up. I removed the molded in differential cooler lines (I'll replace them with wire later) and the Corvette emblem from the rear deck.

Some small big significant progress: I photo etched my windshield design; made two pieces and soldered them together for more thickness, added some brass rod for the convertible top pins and some small angle at the outside edges. There's still a little refining to do, but it's close. On to the interior next.

No big update, but the VRM decals arrived today (that was fast!). The decals cover several versions, but I'm still leaning towards the #2 Sebring 1964 car, especially after seeing the nice stripes that include the thin red outlines that AM missed.

Some good history about George DuVall and the windshield that bears his name here: http://www.coachbuilt.com/des/d/duvall/duvall.htm

The only one I know of in kit form is in the AMT '32 Ford Phantom, but Replicas & Miniatures offers at least a couple to fit different bodies.

Looks like the start of another great one!

A little more progress - I got the wheels and tires detailed, assembled, and attached. And here with the interior loosely in place: I'm getting ready to start on the body and figured what the heck, this one's coming out pretty decent, so I decided to splurge a little (I had a small PayPal balance) so I ordered the VRM decal set for the Grand Sport: http://www.v-r-m.com/vrm-007---grand-sport-1.html I've used their decals before (on my Cobra Daytona and Cheetah builds); not only are the decals excellent, they come with a little booklet full of historical info and reference. I suspect when they arrive I'll be telling myself I should have done it sooner.

This rig: I didn't see what it was hauling - I think they might have been shooting an ad of some type nearby.

Thanks for the update - I appreciate your efforts to get it right, not quick!

Thanks for the info - always good to come here and learn something! I do know several guys here in SoCal that have Minis, so I know it can be done.

Really nice build! Remember too that it doesn't get all that hot in the UK. I wonder how well that radiator arrangement holds up in warmer climates?

A little bit more progress - I got the radiator and associated plumbing in. I made a new top inlet and radiator cap for it along with new hoses. The oil cooler lines and oil filter are just temporarily floating in space - they'll get attached to the inner fender apron after the body is on. There are a couple of small things I would have done differently at this point (if I'd known), but I'm moving on - almost time to get some wheels on this thing.

It's the Mini Exotics kit. Curbside, but I added an engine from the AMT '63 Corvette and wheels and tires from the Owens Corning Corvette.

Yep - I didn't say Cheetahs weren't raced. I've posted it here before, but here's my version of the #64 car:

Part of the reason was that they never made enough Cheetahs for them to be homologated as production cars, so it had to run in the Modified class, which at the time was beginning to be dominated by mid-engined cars that were far more sorted. I've also read that the designers of the Cheetah were intending it to be more of a street driven sports car and so it lacked sufficient chassis stiffness, among other issues. But all in all, a cool car that never reached it's full potential.

I used an M&S transkit to build this IMSA Porsche 962. Excellent quality resin, good instructions, and it went together very nicely.

Thanks for the link, Joe. I'd looked at some of that before, but not all of it. Great material for someone who really wants to go crazy making an accurate replica - there's always more that can be done! I'm mainly trying to do a decent, clean build here, with a few added details. Glad to have your story on this thread, Bill - it's part of what makes message boards like this so worthwhile, as far as I'm concerned. Stan: yes, I use some pretty small brushes (down to 00000) where needed, and also use an Optivisor most of the time when building - my 60 year old eyes are not what they once were, plus standards, expectations, and cameras have all improved. Thanks to all who are following along - and for the enthusiasm and kind words. More to come . . .