landman

Completed opening the sidemount well holes. Turns out that they don't clear the screw bosses in the frame which are somewhat larger than the ones in the body. So I took more off. Epoxied the wells in place. Sanded and puttied some more on the body. It is starting to look like sidemounted 5-window coupe. Long ways to go yet.

Tonight I opened up the fenders to fit the spare tire wells. Nothing is straightforward. I noticed that the wells didn't clear the screw bosses inside the fenders. So I removed some plastic there. Then they went in but didn't seat because of the different radius of the fenders. Took more plastic off. Got them so they would seat. Next came where to cut. I drilled through the screw bosses to make sure I didn't cut through them. Then I drilled some pilot holes at the ends of the openings followed by a 1/4" hole. Then I cut inside the lines with a cutting disc in my rotary tool. With the well in place, I gradually enlarged the hole to match the well's opening.

Thanks guys.

I have a Badger 350 which is getting long in the tooth. I only use it to paint models. I've looked around and see single action, double action, suction feed, gravity feed etc. I guess mine is single action suction feed. What is recommended for the average hobbyist?

I'd like to do a Mack B61, A Ford N600, an old Kenworth and some sort of transporter to put car models on. I'd also like to build a replica of the IH 4700 my daughter's father in law built to tow his 5th wheel camper. The same daughter's husband is service manager at a Kenworth dealership and I may end up doing a display model for him.

Jaguar SS.

Reduced a photo of the 1:1's actual dash and fitted it to the model's. Not perfect but at least it looks like a Master.

More sanding & putty. We're getting there with the door seam. The seam would be easy if all was molded together but the door and body are on slightly different planes. So I have to level it all off. Started looking through my models for one willing to sacrifice its spare tire wells. Finally found a Monogram Metal Master kit someone had given me. That will be the donor. Took an outline of the well opening and transferred it to the Chevy. Now that is cast metal. This is where I need suggestions on how to open this up. I am thinking of drilling a hole at each end and cutting the sides with a cutoff wheel on a rotary tool. Any other ideas?

Love this one. Eye catching results.

Well, there are days like this. I figured I'd give a coat of primer to the seat and body to see the effect of the filler on the seat and how the sealing of the door opening line is coming along. The seat, not being hard plastic turned gummy with the primer. As I was turning the car around in the spray booth, it fell to the ground and broke in three pieces. Put the body back together , put the seat aside in case it needs more time to cure and started playing with a fuel line for the engine.

As a relief to the putty and sanding I took out the seat and compared it to the 1:1's. To approximate that look, I decided to fill some seams to create alternating narrow and wide pleats. Made a paper pattern of the Standard's dash surface and transferred it to styrene which I glued in place. A reduced photo of the Master dash will go there.

More sanding, more putty.

I remember seeing all these manufacturer's names as a kid. And some of the combinations (AMT/ERTL) later. I'd be interested in seeing the "family tree" of the model cpmpanies, if it exists.

Love it. especially the engine.

John, is that a Shelby in the background or a regular Mustang with an aftermarket hood?

Sanded yesterday's putty application and added more.

Thanks Gary. One of the members on this forum, Mr.Fractalign is making me a proper rear window. Thanks for the kind words.

I wonder what happened above? Probably tried to quote and it didn't work. Using a support to keep the frame level I attached the wheel arms to the suspension units. Had to have the fenders on too to get the clearance right. So, following on my idea in post #84, I decided to put the roof back to its original length. Luckily, I still had the strip I had cut out of it. Once it was back together, I started filling gaps and holes. I think these proportions are closer to the real thing.

Dave, it is a 1962 Dodge Dart 440, 440 being the series and not the engine in this case.

You are absolutely correct. As I dig, I find several that I had forgotten about. the Saran Wrap saved the parts but stuck to the paint here and there. Most of them will require some sort of touch up. I'll also need to design & build some storage. In any case, I likely have modelling work for the rest of my days. Here's a few more.

Love it. Paul, I am curious about the battery cable ends, the rad hose clamps and the rad cap. How did you get them so realistic?

I remember seeing a black one sitiing under the canopy of the hotel I was checking in. It was around '78. That image create an intense desire to own one. It wasn't until '95 that I got the one above. And what a car it was!

J.B., it was $80 and yes, it is very nice. I want to replicate the '64 I once owned. Kris, the Hawk will be stock, like mine was. But I was thinking of turning the donor '53 into something fearful I once saw at an all Studebaker show in Peterborough. Someone had taken a '54 and installed the drivetrain and interior of a Buick Grand National and painted the car black. It was so well done, it didn't look modified at all.

Got it today. Turning this into a '64 likely is my next project.