djway3474

Cobbled this together from the various parts in the dual tall t kit for an easy build. I wanted a Tongiaties flair to it. Tamiya Light Metallic Red Hosted on Fotki

I have that kit and I am trying to restore it. The problem is that my tires are totally rotted. I have yet to find some that I can use as replacement. Interesting idea you have there. You know there is a company that puts the aluminium LS motor in 911s, 914s, 944s and on. They are in Vegas

That is KEWELLLLLLL!

The fan is out of the airstream in this unit which eliminates any possibility of fire. My last booth used a bathroom fan and I used it for 20 years and painted over 300 cars including all the primer et cetera. Supposedly the laquers solvents break down the windings allowing for a short and the fan catches on fire. I always had an extinguisher ready LOL. You don't get a high enough concentration of particulates to explode the air mixture. I suppose if your fan was really SPARKING and you sprayed directly on the winding you may be able to ignite but it would be difficult. This setup I have now could only be beat if you used the airtight booths they keep the moon rocks in LOL.

I was one of the first in the country that did Alps work when the printer came out and I did a lot of decals for the best of the best. Sadly the printer was (*&&**&^%$%^& at best and was soon discontinued. Now IF your printer still works - the supplies, if you can find them, are so expensive it is just out of the question to make decals anymore. Plus the time involved to do custom work, lets just say the only people that did not complain about price were the top level builders. So finding someone to do them, and do them correctly, is near impossible. Your best bet if you don't need white in the decal is to do the artwork and then use a laser printer. Other than that I have no suggestions.

The fan I purchased at Grainger. It is a Dyson and cost around 150. The plexi was about 25. The wood depends on how big you make it. I used 1x3 and 1x2 for the box braces. I found a piece of plywood that seemed strong enough and was not too rough. The grate is found in the flourescent lighting panel section and is like 8 bucks. Over all cost is less than those metal premade units. It moves more air and is filtered when closed and much bigger. I can't wait to try it out.

I wanted a booth that I could leave the fan on to vent fumes and have filtered air to avoid as much dust as possible while drying. 480cfm fan on reostat. room for 3 lights at 2000 lumen each. elevated working table allows for total downdraft around the entire model. air filtered going in when door closed and air filterd before going out. fan motor is out of the air stream. working area aprox 36w x 20d x 24h Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

You have 3 choices. 1-leave the ride height as is. 2-lower the roll bar. Looking at you pict probably would not get you as low as you want. 3-Raise the mount as you have shown in the blue outline above. That is exactly what I do to ALL my Revell FC chassis in both scales. It looks as if you would only need to recut 6 small pieces of plastic. Maybe 2 hours of work which will allow you to avoid years of, "What I should have done". In for a penny in for a pound. I think there has to be something off in the geomotry in the Revell chassis ride height as all thier FC kits seem to be way to high in the rear. Something I discoverd years ago. As a second step I always re engineer the interior tin as it also keeps the body too high. That involves decreasing the height of the front vertical plate and shortening the rear mount tab. Try unbolting your rear memeber and tape it into place under that horizontal body support. Then place the body on the car. It should look pretty good. Then place the tin in the body and set the body back on the frame. I have a feeling it will be high again. If so attack the problem now. Good luck and keep up the great work.

This is the new double kit with the tall t and bucket very cool box art and the usual little perks they have been including lately I was just suprised by the quality of some of the parts compared to what they have been doing lately still a good modeler can fix all that

Well it will be cool when done but inbetween is Flash flash and more flash. the drivers side of the bucket has a weird shaped glob so thick that the tuck n roll would not go in all the way. Gave me something to do grinding for 20 minutes. But thats is modeling right? Even with the flash I am VERY glad to have the kit

2 Cool!

Mean and green Sweet!

those stacks pulleys and linkage really improve the looks of that motor. I use parts from that motor on my VW projects and spice up the looks a bit Great job

Well for once the rumors were correct Do you make any kind of tire or machine tires out of something????? Resin???

You may want to contact that Micro Nitro guy. I have heard rumor that he will do custom work. I have some of his wheels that he sells and they are NICE

I have a Nikon point and shoot and a semi pro 35mm reflex. I use the PnS more. If possible shoot in either High ISO or Museum mode and NO FLASH. Picts will be much better. Not enough space here to get into the Physics of it all. Also preset your white balance in whatever situation you are going to be in. That way certain colors on cars wont trick the WB meter and give you strange colored results. I have found the Nikons to be a litter more intuitive to use but in the upper range Reflex cameras the Cannon may have an edge.

Great engineering Looks like the kit was made that way. Beauty!

Cut an S joint into each part of the model. Next cut a piece of plastic that you have preshaped with the same S joint at each end. This creats a semi locking joint at each end, or at least joints with much more surface area.

I bet the NHRA museum would love to display some of your MOTOR ART WORK in their case with all the models All I can find for tires and wheels on the TDR site is tires with flames and no modern wheels plus you just can beat the look of metal Maybe someday I can find someone that does aluminum that would be the ticket I am really looking forward to the rest of this build it inspires me to watch all you high detail builders I am more of a body man but I am fascinated by your work.

cool tops

Beautiful car. I really wish there was a source for tires and wheels and blowers in this scale for us meer mortals. I think everything else a modeler with average rescources can fabricate. I look forward to your next project

as I always say VWs RULE!

http://public.fotki.com/djway3474/model-car-shows/route-66-2011/ a link to a few shots from the Route 66 event enjoy

Hosted on Fotki link to the build picts http://public.fotki.com/djway3474/completed-cars-in-scale/street-machines/cuda-barcheletta/ There ya go I have others in planning for other makes

Looking good! Need to put it up next to my mid engine Cuda