Roadrunner

My particular (and rather modest) stash, has been limited to kits that I really want to build, so I doubt I'll indulge in too many other trades for a while, as I have little that I'm willing to part with, in the way of vehicle kits anyway. If I can't find it at Hobby Lobby, then I begin to check on-line dealers, fleabay, Amazon, etc., always shopping for the best price. As to the OP, price your stuff for what you think is reasonable, let the buyer pay the shipping, and go for it. After the feebay and PayPal fees, you'll still do at least OK.

Yep, looks like the '59 will have to wait for a while. The foiling job on my GTX, looks like a child did it.

I've been doing Luftwaffe stuff for years now, Snake, so I'm pretty comfortable with it. It's really not all that difficult. You bet, Joe. Perhaps the worst/best job I ever did, was a 1:32 JG 54 Bf 109E-4, that was a real nightmare. I've done two winter white schemes so far (on aircraft), and both did real well in contests, so I'm fairy confident there.

I've been using that setup for years now, Joe. Quiet, all the pressure I'd ever need, no moisture, no pusation. What else could be better? Thanks, Gino, I appreciate it.

I'm not sure if this makes me happy or not. The '59 El Camino (with camper) is a grail project for me, and my foiling abilities at this time, really suck.

I'm headed to Hobby Lobby Saturday, so hopefully I'll be adding something new to the stash then.

Good timing, as I'll probably be headed over there Saturday. Thanks. Me too.

Yep, that's not what I thought it was at all, Bill. That's a bit of a specialty tool that I may well consider getting. Thanks,

I just went through the exact same thing on a'69 GTX I'm building. I discovered the problem too late, so used lead wire to shim the inside wheel, forcing the tire outward. It's a jimmy rigged fix, but I'll know better next time.

I do order a fair amount of garden variety supplies from my buddy (shipping costs are offset by the gas savings, wear & tear on my old car and the frustrations of sitting in traffic), so things like paint, sandpaper, tools and the like, I manage to get from him. But even for car models, as cheap as they are, I still can't beat the 40% off at HL, assuming they stock what I want, so that's where I go.

I'm like yourself, I may buy ten different items at once, but they may or may not be related to any one specific project. I guess I was more curious why you'd use clear enamel over lacquer, instead of lacquer, but you answered that question.

If you don't have any of that stuff handy, try putting it in your freezer for a day. The CA can tend to get brittle when frozen.

I hear ya', Joe. If I recall correctly, the Trumpeter 1:16 M16 half-track was close to $225 retail when it was first released. I promised myself that I'd purchase one when they dipped below $150, after the initial feeding frenzy died off, and in fact ended up eventually getting one on-line for $80. My LHS owner/friend, was still asking $225 for his kits at that time. That's no paltry savings in my book. That's admittedly an extreme example, but still,...

My books are of no specific help, but for the most part, it seems that if winter white was applied at all, it was also generally applied to wing uppers, so that's what I'll do.

Pretty nifty.

Fortunately for me, there are quite a few cars that are quite interesting to me just the way they're presented in the kit, requiring nothing really, except perhaps some new tires. Some of the tires in my kits, look like some mutated off road 4x4 mudders or something, hardly fit for a street car. I have no idea what manufacturers are thinking of when they put these nasty mutations in the box.

Are you intending to use the clear enamel over the lacquers, Ray?

It's just as miserable hot and sticky here in the summer, as it is cold and wet in the winter, so most of my modeling peaks in the summer and winter, but I still manage to work on hobby stuff all year around, regardless.

My new booth, once complete (with two squirrel cage blowers operating in tandem), will move roughly 424 CFM (Nom.), but I'll still wear a respirator most of the time while painting.

Perhaps, if there's room. I need to plant 50% more tomatoes than what I need, to offset what the squirrels will take or destroy.

One thing that I find interesting about artistic renderings of known schemes, is the way two artists can depict the same airframe two completely different ways. Neither of the two color drawings I have pick up all of the subtle details of this photograph; one completely misses the yellow theater band on the fuselage, one misses the armored windscreen, one has the S on the fuselage as yellow, when it is clearly not, one depicts a closed spinner, one shows an extended tail, both miss the fact that the white area of the Balkenkreuz is a filthy color (probably grayish), and the differences continue. The wing topside colors are still a mystery, but I'll take my best guess as to whether they were painted white or not, based upon whatever the majority of the other aircraft of the unit seemed to have done.

The majority of 110's that I've seen from this particular unit, had open E type spinners, so that's what I'm going with. Many feel that the earlier photo I posted, has been edited, for whatever reason, and that in fact, the spinners were open.

Well, photos don't lie, and this one tells me that I still have some work to do. I finally got better lighting, so was able to really go at touching up this IP. I thought it was looking pretty decent, but the photo says otherwise. I'm really hoping to get the fuselage zipped up in the next few weeks, with a finished target date of early September,... we'll see how that goes, I guess.

With cowlings now attached, I've gone ahead and added radiator assemblies. Fit here wasn't the best (probably my fault), but should certainly work out OK.

OK, some CA, some sanding and polishing, and I now have clear (and flush) viewing windows. Too bad the plastic provided is so thick, as the instruments certainly can't be read through them.