BigTallDad

I, at the gracious invitation from the Selective Service System (aka "The Draft") was wearing olive drab, getting ready to be shipped to Korea.

Take a picture of a broken windshield and use it to make a decal (using clear decal paper, of course). Maybe several decals to simulate gunshots...just kidding.

When it comes to bending, heat is usually required. I prefer to use a soldering iron...very controlled heat (depending on the distance), no nasty carbon residuals (as in candles or cigarette lighters). Heat guns will also work, but are a bit more than the task requires.

I agree with the previous comments that stated Tamiya is better than Testors. I've found that, straight out of the rattle can, the Tamiya products produce an incredible gloss...putting a coat of TS-13 (Tamiya clear), also right out of the rattle can, will knock your socks off.

Naahh, too far for this 75 year old guy.

Do you have a vacu-form? Make a mold (sometimes called a buck) from Mold It, using the damaged windshield for the shape. After the Mold It sets up, vacu-form a new one.

Why not just save the old ones and soak them in lacquer thinner? An old olive jar works well for that (it also works for other brands).

Very well done, especially the interior! Just some observations (not criticisms)... Did the kit have the rubber bullets in the front bumper molded in? The 150 Utility Sedan was the lowest price of all models, and it seems contradictory to have the optional bullets yet dog-dish hubcaps, blackwall tires, etc. If you decide to build another version with a 6-holer, be aware of the differences between the 1953 (and older) versions and the 1954 (and up) sixes. To me, the absolute easiest way to tell is by looking at the valve cover. Prior to 1954, the cover was held in place by using two studs that came up through the center; 1954 and newer valve covers were held in place by four bolts (two per side) on the bottom flange of the cover. The earlier comments regarding the location of the radiator are correct: for a V8, the radiator was mounted behind the radiator bracket; owing to the inline 6 being a longer engine, the radiator was mounted in front of the bracket.

Might a small funnel work? I've not seen the size of the receiving bottle mentioned anywhere. Is it also a pint, or somewhat smaller? That makes a difference on the technique used.

I would have responded sooner, but I had to dry all the drool on my keyboard. EXCELLENT!

Very nice job on the interior; I especially like the key in the ignition...nice touch!

This topic was recently discussed... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/131719-painting-side-panel-badges/

I did, and (as mentioned earlier) the paint beaded up like water on oil.

Did you thoroughly read my posts? They regarded this product (and only this product): https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Peel-Coat-Peelable-Primer/193883061. I'm not sure I would consider an aerosol spray to be of the same consistency as a "Any liquid mask". With a liquid, you can dip the part or brush-paint the solution on the part; it is totally different when spraying from a rattle can. The plastic soda bottle bottoms I used were the most severe examples I could find to test the product's effectiveness; I wanted to see how well it allowed masking on complex curves, not flat surfaces. If it might work on a flat surface, why bother when masking tape serves the same purpose? I didn't practice on scrap parts to determine how thick it needs to be applied, because spraying doesn't really give you that option. In every respect, the product failed the test, and that's what my thread was meant to convey. If you have used that identical product with good results on test pieces as complex as I used, please post how you accomplished that...I'd be very interested to see how you were able to do that. My limited testing proved (to me, at least) the Rustoleum Peelable Primer is not suitable for use as a masking product for models.

Glad to help. Another thing I ran into was the primer kept beading up, almost like water paint on an enamel surface...I was never able to apply a coat of primer that completely covered the bottom of the bottle; maybe because I had the bottles clamped in an inverted position while they were drying...

x 2!

I bought a can and tried it. What a joke and waste of money! I used plastic soda bottle bottoms, figuring they'd have about the most complex curves you could run into. I primered 5 bottles, the sprayed a color coat of Duplicolor, Krylon, Tamiya, Testors, and Rustoleum (one brand per bottle). After they were dry, I sprayed the peelable primer on each. DISMAL results! Finally, I read the instructions (what a concept!) and saw the multiple coats (four or more) are recommended. Soooo I took two bottles, sprayed five coats on each, and I still couldn't attain the peel-able aspect and in every case, the color coat was attacked. Conclusion: maybe it works as intended for temporary use on 1:1 vehicles, but as a masking agent on models, forget it!

In case you want to practice on some throw-away material...most sprues have tabs (with raised numbers) to identify parts. Put some BMF on 'em, paint, polish, use balsa and thinner, whatever floats your boat. That will help you get the "warm and fuzzy feeling" when approaching this task. Another thing I've forgotten to mention in previous posts is the shape of the balsa. I tend to use the edge 1/8" balsa, rather than the flat part, and the tip is rounded very much like a popsicle stick. I hold the stick as though it were a pencil, which allows me to concentrate on a small area, without having to worry too much about whether the balsa is flat. As the removed paint starts clogging up the balsa, I just sand it of on an emery board and continue to march.

Piece of cake, Snake!

content deleted

Looks great!

It says it is a paint marker; does the packaging indicate what kind of paint (oil based or acrylic)? Depending on the type of paint, white-wall tires or raised letters/numbers on tires come to mind.

So, if it etches, spraying it over a finish coat (as in restoring an old kit) could be detrimental?

Maybe it's just me, but that still isn't making sense. Here's how I understand what you're saying; please point out which step(s) I have wrong: Clean the old build and put a coat of the clear primer on it. Mask the areas that will remain the original color. Apply a coat of clear primer to minimize bleed through along the masking lines. Apply the new color. Apply clear gloss (not primer) if desired. Remove the masking tape. Polish out the whole body, including the old color which now has a coat of clear primer (step 1 above). Thanks for helping!

Painting red plastic I understand, but "sealer for color change" is vague. Do you mean in conjunction with masking tape, where you use a clear to avoid bleed through? Why use a primer rather than a gloss? Please explain.