BigTallDad

Excellent advice! I've also used short sections of paper clips to back up the inside of the pillar.

Very nicely done with some great imagination. Ready for a challenge? I once saw a '64 Impala (1:1) that had been shortened and converted into a 2-door coupe with no back seat.

BMF = Bare Metal Foil

Drop them in a small glass bottle that contains lacquer thinner.

Excellent job wiring and plumbing that engine compartment!

x2

Whatever you do, do NOT use any type of clamp that will put tension on the part. An example would be the Tamiya paint rack, with the spreader clips that go inside the body; if you use one of these, the spreader clips will widen the body (ask me how I know)!

The wheels/tires and chrome grille/hood ornament are far too clean. Will this be part of a diorama or considered street-driveable? If a non-driver, flatten a tire (or remove one). That's a lot of rust but no dents. Open the hood, remove the engine, and put a couple of birds nests in there. Put one rusty headlight in, leave the other as a hole Need some cracked windows That should give you some ideas

What kind of two-sided tape are you using? I use tape that is intended for grip replacement on golf clubs, and it leaves no residue.

I take a slightly different approach, especially when it comes to oil pans and trannies. I'll actually bevel the jointing edges (where the two parts come together) of the halves before cementing which allows me to have an area large enough to accept (and retain) the filler for future sanding. Most engine castings have the oil pan/tranny with a vertical angle, thus the ridges on the bottom side

Starbucks might be OK, but be careful at WaffleHouse...

And that matters how?

Speaking for myself (and perhaps the OP), I'm not looking for a gazillion fonts, just a way to curve the script.

Very nice work on your "first" model (no sarcasm intended, I did the same thing 60 years ago). On your next ones, are you planning some engine shots, followed by interiors? Take it one step at a time...no rush

I'd be interested in that software too, especially if it's free. Rather than using a brush to create the signs, why not make decals?

Nice looking cop car. Are those the wheels that came with the kit?

Very well done...nice touch putting the siren under the hood. It's not often you see a 2-door police car.

So the original question has been asked and answered...why the additional dialogue?

Has your question been answered?

That is probably one of the nicest versions of this kit I've seen!! Very clean and precise. It really irritates me that this Revell kit messed up the front bumper that badly...it sticks out waaay too far. Otherwise, as this post shows, it can be built into a very nice model.

I'd add a flat clear, such as Testor's Dullcote, to the list

If you don't have any precision measuring equipment, use a piece of modeling clay. Stick the tip on one of the needles into the clay and carefully (so as not to distort the hole) withdraw it. Now insert the other needle in the same hole...if it's a sloppy fit, the first needle was the 0.5 needle; if you have to force the needle, the first needle was the 0.35. Repeat this test several times just to make sure. It might help to place the clay in the 'fridge for an hour or so before performing this test.

The one shown on ebay has the same box art you originally posted.

1963, according to ebay (there's one for sale) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1963-AMT-Trophy-Series-Studebaker-AVANTI-3-in-1-Model-Kit-1-25-2064-150-/152823217823

Great work! Any interior shots? I'd love to see some springs showing through seat fabric.