BigTallDad

Only if you want to scratch the surface of the plastic

Very nicely done! Are there any under-hood shots?

I don't know if this will help, but here's a pic with the rack in the stowed position And another showing the in-use position. I found these on Google.

Use red food coloring in a small amount of Pledge with Future. The number coats/dips will determine how red and how translucent the part is. Practice on the clear sprue.

Very crisp and well executed!

This site might help if you have the kit info... http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/ Go to ebay etc and get the kit number/manufacturer etc, then see if there are instructions on the Drastic Plastic site. If so, the instructions will provide the info you're looking for (I think).

My nearest Hobby Lobby is at least 35 miles away...any "savings" would be lost in the price of fuel.

I'd ask a moderator.

How about separate threads, based on the manufacturer, rather than a single thread with 100 - 150 pictures? A thread for FoMoCo, another for GM, then Chrysler, and (if applicable) foreign vehicles.

How many pictures? At the risk of being over-critical, quite a few posts show pictures of a model that has been rotated (perhaps) 20 degrees between shots, and it ends up being almost 40 - 50 images.

I do the garage/estate sale thing every weekend, weather permitting (and it usually does). Where else would I find a like-new 12" Delta drill press for $35?

Or you could just go with enamel. This was done using Ace Hardware rattle-can (no airbrush) and a dehydrator.

Thank you; we seem to share an appreciation for wood on cars. The raised wood on the '40 was 1/32" plywood; the underlying (dark) wood was a decal. The open vent is really quite easy...cut the center out, then place masking tape over the opening and rub a pencil lead on the opening. Transfer the masking tape to sheet styrene and cut the filler plate. The mesh is a bit more (but not much) difficult and you may not be able to easily find it. LMK via PM if you need some.

Nice work all the way around, especially the wood! Here's something to think about on your next build: open the fresh air vent.

Or perhaps cooking spray, such as PAM

According to this site, it was a DB-5 http://www.imcdb.org/

Cool! When you get to the driver's side taillight assembly, will you show it open (for filling the gas tank) or closed ?

Will coating the part to be casted in WD-40 work?

What a great job on a car that should never have been built...a four door Porsche? A "family" sedan? That begs the question: Why did anybody make a kit of it (a low production vehicle)? Sorry, I'm venting. I'm just tired of seeing the model-maker's ideas of what will sell.

Another option is to get one of these; that way you don't have to pay more for the tiny bits with large shanks. https://www.micromark.com/High-Precision-Micro-Pin-Vise Put the bit in the pin vise, then chuck the pin vise into a hand-held drill or a drill press. Remember to have a minimum amount of bit exposed...the more the bit protrudes, the more it is likely to break.

Not only will you have scribe lines, you'll probably have sink-marks on the other side of the hood; don't overlook those when filling the scribe lines.

Very nicely done! I think that's one of those cars that had to back up a long, steep hill because of the gravity feed fuel system.

Good analogy!

You're gonna like that regulator...you can tweak down by a pound or so of PSI, based on the 0 - 30 range; try doing that with a regulator that goes from 0 - 120 PSI. I'm not sure about the mods to the drill...how do you hold the darned thing with all those parts on the outside?

I think more information is in order. You are moving [location name here] to [location name here]; those locations can assist the forum members on the best methods of packing/moving the kits. Another thing to consider: can you get insurance to cover any possible damage?