BigTallDad

I have a knife dedicated to BMF. I put a pencil eraser on the handle so I know which one it is. I also marked the back of the blade with a red felt-tip marker...the contrast against BMF helps. You might want to browse this tutorial... http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/BareMetalFoil/bmf.htm

Maybe this will work... Scan the white decals, then open the image in MS Paint. At the top, select Image then Invert Colors.

That is a stellar build, with a perfect set of colors! Why is it that kit manufacturers don't understand the need for a steering shaft? because it clutters the engine compartment?

It is different...how many models were in the collection you bought?

I agree! A tutorial is definitely in order! I added a tutorial on converting a regular model to a woodie. Your tutorial on weathering would be a perfect complement. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101995-woodification-making-it-a-woodie/ Between the two tutorials, members could choose what and how they want to use wood.

What kind of glue? Solvent-based, CA, epoxy, etc.

In your opening post, you said "A few years ago I bought several built models from a collection." Is this one of them, or did you scratchbuild it yourself?

Maybe you're talking about fender welting... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101745-another-use-for-thread/#comment-1421463

Faucet washers (for repairing leaky faucets) are tapered, have a centered hole, and come in several different sizes. Check 'em out at Lowe's or Home Depot.

I don't think it's British; take a close look at the steering wheel location.

You are correct, Russ. What happens is when the trim (or emblem) is cut into the mold, there can be a small ridge in the mold (surrounding the trim/emblem) as a result. Bearing in mind the plastic part is the "mirror" of the mold, the trim/emblem will be raised on the plastic but there will be a depression surrounding it. Removing the trim/emblem will still leave the depression, but putty will remedy that. Back to the original topic...do some looking on woodworking sites for scrapers. I use my woodworking scrapers on my plastic models often. Get a straight-edge scraper, use the masking tape mentioned earlier, and scrape (not cut/sand) the offending trim/emblem away. On a curved surface (such as horizontal trim on a door) be careful you don't scrape too deep, thus leaving a flat area on a curved surface.

Yep! Shutdown time approacheth!

It depends on the venue, Harry. I'm a member of a "loose" model club (no dues, rules, officers...just a group of modelers) and one of our members was born/raised in Germany; his father was a German soldier in WWII. According to Werner, if you enter a model in a German contest today and said model has swastikas etc. you could face incarceration.

Looks like this one is gonna get locked down too, and for the same reasons.

Take a used softener sheet (clothes-drying type) and lightly wipe the body down. Dryer sheets help prevent that "dreaded static cling" you see on TV ads. I stress used; a fresh sheet may leave a residue behind.

Nice work! I too enjoyed watching Arnie race at Alton Dragway. Rumor has it he kluged up a clutch/flywheel combo that connected to an auto tranny...quick off the line and no missed shifts.

While I'm a bit late, here's a link for cars in movies http://www.imcdb.org/ Open the link, type in the movie name, and you see almost all of the cars (including chase scene, filler, blah blah) from that movie.

Nice to see a Crown Vic that isn't a cop car.

They're about $2 at garage sales.

I sometimes use larger handles etc. for other woodworking functions, and needed a place to store them This time I used an old wooden cigar box. There is a space near the hinge for razor saw blades (more visible with the tray removed) as well as a lift-out tray. Bizarre blades are held in place on the lid via strip magnets.

If you decide to go brass, this might help http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=102629

I'm not sure the styrofoam wold be be sturdy enough...

Here's a cute little stacker that doesn't take up too much space but can store a TON (over 90) of bits I made it from scrap plywood and mounted it on a lazy susan bearing Each layer is actually two thicknesses of plywood. I cut both layers, then drilled all the way through the top layer before gluing it to the bottom layer, thus assuring that all the holes are the same depth. The absolute bottom layer is a solid piece (to mount the bearing) but all the other layers have the centers cut out (they look like donuts). This reduces the amount of wood needed (as well as the weight), since the donut from the grey bottom layer becomes (after once again cutting out the center) the donut for the grey center layer and the donut from the grey center becomes the grey top layer. The same holds true fro the white layers. The lamp part at the top allows me to easily carry it if necessary.

Mounting it on the wall is discussed earlier in this thread...scroll back.

Nice looking storage unit. When you were making it, did you consider placing each outer row of holes at a slight angle? That would allow better access to tools in the center row.